I'm new to this forum so pardon me if this is posted in the wrong spot. Anyways, my Rickenbacker has really high action on it so it's really difficult to play. I have read the manual and tried to lower the action but it doesnt work. My Warwick Thumb also has a high neck tension and it is hard to play live. I was wondering if it is because it is an issue due to the short scale, or not. Any advice??
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String Tension on my Basses!! Help!
- Thread starter NubScrub
- Start date
Is it high action, high-tension strings or both? What type, and gauge, of strings are loaded your basses right now? And, what method(s) have you tried to lower the action that didn't work?
On my Rick, it has high action, medium gauge but I'm not sure about what kind. They are different strings on both, im certain its not that. The manual said to twist these two knobs, but it lowered/raised the mute, rather than the action. The action on my Warwick is really low, so it might be the strings.
Sounds like you Rick needs to have the truss rod adjusted. Not familiar with the process on a Rick, but it is a fairly easy procedure with the right tools. I just adjusted my Spector tonight and it took all of 5-10 minutes. Look up how to do it on YouTube and if it seems out of your comfort zone, find a local tech to do it for you.
On your Wick, you might want to consider a looser feeling string set. DR High Beams for a bright tone, Sun Beams for a darker tone. Both are wound on round cores, so they feel looser even when the gauge and actual tension is almost the same. Should be available at any big box music store in your area.
You are not articulating your issue very clearly. You are mixing terms and it makes it difficult to answer your questions. Tension. Action. Height. The guitar is adjustable. It probably needs adjusting.
YouTube is full of answers. If you can think of a problem or need advice YouTube can be a big help. Hope you find an answer. Ricks are not 35" scale so you should be able to get fairly low action. If the Warwick is a 35" you may have to live with it. 35" scale basses are not a bad thing but the longer you go the harder it can be to get the action lower. If it's a short scale you need to go with thicker strings (110, 90, 75, 50). All of this is just my opinion, not fact 
As mentioned by others, you can seek advice on the web or youtube on proper technique for truss rod adjustments, string action and intonation. The quality of information will only be as good as whatever you choose to use. Best options are to send both basses to a pro for proper setup or learn from someone experienced 1st hand.
With Ricks i have read that the truss rods(2 rods) adjusts differently than Fender styled by means of having to loosen the strings and rods, mechanically straightening the neck and adding slight back bow, than tightening the rods and strings after. You can't tighten the rods without the mentioned steps because it isn't designed to straighten while under tension like a Fender styled one. Pls. verify that info in case i am wrong. If all this seems complicated, seek a pro.
The Warwick Thumb 4 and 5 variants are both 34" scale. Different string brands, gauge and material all dictate overall play feel. Do some research and try some other strings. You will find something that suits you better.
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YouTube is full of answers. If you can think of a problem or need advice YouTube can be a big help. Hope you find an answer. Ricks are not 35" scale so you should be able to get fairly low action. If the Warwick is a 35" you may have to live with it. 35" scale basses are not a bad thing but the longer you go the harder it can be to get the action lower. If it's a short scale you need to go with thicker strings (110, 90, 75, 50). All of this is just my opinion, not fact
Warwick Thumbs are 34" scale. Gross misinformation about 35" scale basses stated. Scale length doesn't dictate string action, it is dictated by setup. Scale length does affect string feel and reach.
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I have a tendency to sound superior or dismissive, so I apologize greatly if this post sounds that way. Especially since you have such great taste in gear. But it seems you could be greatly helped by a course in instrument setup and terminology.
"High neck tension" - that is, the pressure the truss rods are exerting on the neck - would result in too low action (string height.) The strings you use do matter. Have you replaced the factory stock strings, or were they strung up with a new set? Does the action change during seasonal changes? If you're attempting to lower atrociously high action, you need to start with the neck, not the bridge.
There are many, many, many instrument setup guides on youtube, but there are just as many idiots offering bad advice. They all mean well, but some suffer from simple ignorance, while others cling to outdated ideas. If you want an A to Z guide to the mechanics, I highly - HIGHLY recommend picking up The Bass Player Book. It starts with terminology, moves onto technique, then instrument setup, amp configuration, and tips & tricks from some of the worlds leading bass players. I recommend this book to most all players, because even though it starts with the basics, the writing is engaging and informative. Even for experienced bass players, it offers plenty of "d'oh, that seems so obvious in hindsight" moments right from the start. I really can't recommend this book enough.
Outside of that, your best bet is to cozy up to your friendly neighborhood luthier. If they're worth their salt they'll explain what's wrong, and how to fix it. I learned a lot just by bumming around my local guitar shop, asking questions. If they kick you out, then shag 'em. Learn the basics, and once you understand the fundamentals, you'll be amazed by how much you can accomplish on your own. Plus, it's a hell of an ego boost
"High neck tension" - that is, the pressure the truss rods are exerting on the neck - would result in too low action (string height.) The strings you use do matter. Have you replaced the factory stock strings, or were they strung up with a new set? Does the action change during seasonal changes? If you're attempting to lower atrociously high action, you need to start with the neck, not the bridge.
There are many, many, many instrument setup guides on youtube, but there are just as many idiots offering bad advice. They all mean well, but some suffer from simple ignorance, while others cling to outdated ideas. If you want an A to Z guide to the mechanics, I highly - HIGHLY recommend picking up The Bass Player Book. It starts with terminology, moves onto technique, then instrument setup, amp configuration, and tips & tricks from some of the worlds leading bass players. I recommend this book to most all players, because even though it starts with the basics, the writing is engaging and informative. Even for experienced bass players, it offers plenty of "d'oh, that seems so obvious in hindsight" moments right from the start. I really can't recommend this book enough.
Outside of that, your best bet is to cozy up to your friendly neighborhood luthier. If they're worth their salt they'll explain what's wrong, and how to fix it. I learned a lot just by bumming around my local guitar shop, asking questions. If they kick you out, then shag 'em. Learn the basics, and once you understand the fundamentals, you'll be amazed by how much you can accomplish on your own. Plus, it's a hell of an ego boost
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BassHappy
Supporting Member
There are literally dozens of set-up guides and videos on YouTube - but this is the best set-up guide I have ever seen BY FAR:
http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/en/...=akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf
Good luck with it!
BassHappy
www.innertainment.net
http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/en/...=akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf
Good luck with it!
BassHappy
www.innertainment.net
most music stores have a tech - I wouldn't use Guitar center but rather someone local - they can usually adjust your action - intonation and truss rods for a minimal price
Scale length does effect reach! I'm 6ft and I have to stretch my arm out more to play the 35" basses i have owned and played. Most people who tune down a full step enjoy the tighter tension of a longer scale bass. As far as action you a right a good bass no matter the scale length should be able to be set rather low. Warwick has for many years now made 35" an option for their bolt on basses. I suggest you check their site before making such a claim. And "it does not affect reach", seriously! The bass player for the sones said Keith wanted him to play fenders but his arms were too short. Gross information, I think not sir.
Based on the OPs lack of setup knowledge as well as terminology, i was assuming that he/she would have opted for a standard 34" Warwick Thumb 4 or 5 string vs a special order 35" scale version. Either way, trying out different strings is an option.
Be that as it may, I suggest you re-read my comments before jumping to conclusions. I did point out the misinformation on string action being affected by setup and not by scale length. I did also state that 'scale length does effect string feel and reach'. Got a bit ahead of yourself there bud.
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NubScrub, if you're unsure of how to proceed, go to a luthier who knows how to get the best from your bass.
But if you're determined on a DIY route, follow these steps... Stand the bass up and look closely down the length of each side of the neck. If there is a huge curve (too much relief) in the neck, the truss rod(s) will need tightening in order to flatten out the neck a little. It doesn't need to be totally flat and should have a slight curve to allow for string clearance.
If the strings are still too high off the fingerboard, then it's time to adjust the action height at the bridge. Most bridge saddles are set with little hex key screws (more primitive ones have big screws to tilt the whole bridge) - Turning clockwise usually raises the saddle and anti-clockwise lowers it. Look under the strings between the end of the fingerboard and the neck pickup and the strings should be in a nice gentle curve compared to each other. The highest should be the A string, followed closely by the D string.
If you like how your bass feels changing from string to string, adjust them all downwards by the same quantity, say a full 360 degree turn at a time, or if it's more subtle, half a turn at a time. If the neck is adjusted properly, you should be able to get the action much lower without any buzz. There are many ways and measures of when it's right, but at the end of the day, just play every note on the bass, making sure there's no serious clanking or buzzing.
It's a trial and error thing and takes a few goes to get right, but you'll soon get the hang of it. Small adjustments to your basses can make a huge difference to the feel and ease of playing.
String tension is another story - That can be just too heavy-a gauge of string for you. I don't like heavy strings personally, so on a wooden necked bass I tend to use 40-100 gauge strings. They just give you that little bit extra flexibility and speed, whereas on my graphite necked instruments I use 30-90 strings which are hugely flexible and bendable.
As someone else mentioned, the brand and type of string can also make a difference. If you want a softer string, try something pressure wound like DR Marcus Miller FatBeams, or the aforementioned other DR strings.
But if you're determined on a DIY route, follow these steps... Stand the bass up and look closely down the length of each side of the neck. If there is a huge curve (too much relief) in the neck, the truss rod(s) will need tightening in order to flatten out the neck a little. It doesn't need to be totally flat and should have a slight curve to allow for string clearance.
If the strings are still too high off the fingerboard, then it's time to adjust the action height at the bridge. Most bridge saddles are set with little hex key screws (more primitive ones have big screws to tilt the whole bridge) - Turning clockwise usually raises the saddle and anti-clockwise lowers it. Look under the strings between the end of the fingerboard and the neck pickup and the strings should be in a nice gentle curve compared to each other. The highest should be the A string, followed closely by the D string.
If you like how your bass feels changing from string to string, adjust them all downwards by the same quantity, say a full 360 degree turn at a time, or if it's more subtle, half a turn at a time. If the neck is adjusted properly, you should be able to get the action much lower without any buzz. There are many ways and measures of when it's right, but at the end of the day, just play every note on the bass, making sure there's no serious clanking or buzzing.
It's a trial and error thing and takes a few goes to get right, but you'll soon get the hang of it. Small adjustments to your basses can make a huge difference to the feel and ease of playing.
String tension is another story - That can be just too heavy-a gauge of string for you. I don't like heavy strings personally, so on a wooden necked bass I tend to use 40-100 gauge strings. They just give you that little bit extra flexibility and speed, whereas on my graphite necked instruments I use 30-90 strings which are hugely flexible and bendable.
As someone else mentioned, the brand and type of string can also make a difference. If you want a softer string, try something pressure wound like DR Marcus Miller FatBeams, or the aforementioned other DR strings.
I apologize. I misread the word in your statement believing you used the word "doesn't". My most sincere apologies.Based on the OPs lack of setup knowledge as well as terminology, i was assuming that he/she would have opted for a standard 34" 4 or 5 string Warwick Thumb vs a special order 35" scale version. Either way, trying out different strings is an option.
Be that as it may, I suggest you re-read my comments before jumping to conclusions. I did point out the misinformation on string action being affected by setup and not by scale length. I did also state that 'scale length does effect string feel and reach'. Got a bit ahead of yourself there bud.
