• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

String tension

Really the only thing you should worry about is if you're using heavier gage strings or tuning your bass higher than standard, and even then, most necks are fine. I use 50-110 strings on my basses tuned to D standard, 45-105 if tuned to E. I typically prefer higher tension strings, and the only neck issues I've ever had were due to defects in the bass, not tension damage. I'm sure you can find lots of information online about what string gages to use for the tuning you use.
Thanks that anwsers my question
 
ok I dont know what GC34 is but this is a genuine question, I have ADHD so my brain works a little different. Generally I get great answers when I ask questions so let me try to rephrase the question because apparently I am asking it wrong.
I have just installed high tension strings on my neck.
When tuning the strings I have my polytune 3 on so I can see which note i am at as I pluck.. I notice that on my e string once I have the string in the tuning peg I may start offf receiving a note at say A (the note) As i continue to turn the tuning peg (the clover leaf metal part) I pass an E (the note) however the string still feels loose so I continue to turn the tuning peg until I get to the next E (which I am describing as an octave higher) the string then feels tighter. This is where I leave the tuning peg after tweaking for intonation.
The question I am asking is should I turn the tuning peg back to the first E , and If I do is that better for tension on the neck.
 
Well...
Yes, down-tuning the strings an octave will, indeed, put less tension on your bass's neck. The strings might be too floppy to play, but the tension will be very low. Here's the thing;
Unless your bass is a very, very old one; does not have a truss rod (like some very cheap ones); or there's something physically wrong with the bass and/or the neck? The "normal" gauge bass strings (either side of 45-105) will not hurt your bass. Those strings are what it's made to wear - and, in most cases, are what it comes from the factory with.
Yes, some strings have more tension than others. Flat wounds, as a general rule, do have more actual, pounds-of-pull-to-pitch tension than most rounds. But, generally, not a lot more. Certainly not enough to worry about. But yes; some do have a lot more than others. Some have a lot less, too. So...
Just put whatever "normal" gauge strings you want to use - even those La Bella Flats (they aren't the "Jamerson" 1954 Originals, are they?) - on the bass; tune them to the normal pitch for an EADG bass; and play the snot out of them. If you're really worried about the bass's neck? Just check the neck relief every so often; it will let you know if there's a problem in plenty of time to take care of it... :cool:
yes they are the 1954 originals. Everything you are saying is spot on. It did seem like the strings were to floppy. Thank you for the insight and the knowledge, As I said in another response I will do most maintenance or mods myself but electronics and truss rod are two things I dont want to get into. They both make me nervouse. Moreso the truss rod
 
ok I dont know what GC34 is but this is a genuine question, I have ADHD so my brain works a little different. Generally I get great answers when I ask questions so let me try to rephrase the question because apparently I am asking it wrong.
I have just installed high tension strings on my neck.
When tuning the strings I have my polytune 3 on so I can see which note i am at as I pluck.. I notice that on my e string once I have the string in the tuning peg I may start offf receiving a note at say A (the note) As i continue to turn the tuning peg (the clover leaf metal part) I pass an E (the note) however the string still feels loose so I continue to turn the tuning peg until I get to the next E (which I am describing as an octave higher) the string then feels tighter. This is where I leave the tuning peg after tweaking for intonation.
The question I am asking is should I turn the tuning peg back to the first E , and If I do is that better for tension on the neck.


Does your bass sound like a bass, or does it sound like a guitar?

If it sounds like a guitar, you've tuned up an octave too high (and it's amazing you haven't snapped a string, or caused the neck relief to bow enough give you sky high action).
 
Hello all, I have recently been reading a lot of posts about string tension. When restringing I always tune up to what feels like the highest octave I can. If I tune my strings done an octave would that help with string tension. Or is string tension something I really don't need to worry about
How many strings do you break when tuning by “feel”?
 
Last edited:
i dont want to touch my truss rod that was what stemmed this conversation. its a P Bass
When you change strings you are to loosen the truss rod about 1/4 inch turn counter clockwise--just to take the tension off. Sometimes I go Two 1/4" turns counter clockwise... Its pretty simple. After you install the strings, you want to give it another turn about 1/4"-1/2" clockwise. Pretty simple stuff. Then, tune up your strings. It is not something that you should be afraid of. Lots and lots of video tutorials on youtube.
 
Last edited:
yes they are the 1954 originals. Everything you are saying is spot on. It did seem like the strings were to floppy. Thank you for the insight and the knowledge, As I said in another response I will do most maintenance or mods myself but electronics and truss rod are two things I dont want to get into. They both make me nervouse. Moreso the truss rod
Well...
The La Bella 1954's are high tension flats - and very stiff, as well. Pretty much on par with Rotosound's RS77LD's, which a lot of people describe as "bridge cables". Which I have used on a couple of basses - and liked. Just know that there are La Bella DTF's (760FL's, for example) that are not nearly as high tension - or as stiff; yet sound pretty similar. But, please yourself...
As for your truss rod? I know they can be pretty intimidating, but... honestly? They really aren't. You just need to know what kind you have (yes, there are different kinds of truss rod); where you access it from (which may throw additional steps into the procedure); and what kind of tool you need to adjust it with. And, you need a good capo - and something to measure the results of it being adjusted. But, that's all simple stuff - and easily acquired. Lots and lots of "how-to" videos on YouTube... But, that's up to you. Just know that - eventually? SOMEBODY is going to have to do it. It will be cheaper - and a lot more satisfying - if that somebody is you. But, again - please yourself... :cool: