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String through body

Interesting thread, as I've been considering a sting-thru conversion for a while now. It started off as a "I want all black hardware, instead of chrome", idea. It's evolved into a "monorail string-thru conversion" idea. I'm still on the fence if it's worth the risk (worried about the body cracking during drilling. It's a neck-thru). <--- valid concern? I guess not, they do it at the factory. Think I saw 'The Italian Job' too many times (she has to drill thru a glass plate in a safe). ;)

Cheers,
Neal.
 
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personally;

string thru : suit walking style, more low out of it, but popping is crappy, not open as non-string thru.

non-string thru : suit slap style, less low when walking, but more open when slapping.


I've tried with Marcus 5
 
Interesting thread, as I've been considering a sting-thru conversion for a while now. It started off as a "I want all black hardware, instead of chrome", idea. It's evolved into a "monorail string-thru conversion" idea. I'm still on the fence if it's worth the risk (worried about the body cracking during drilling. It's a neck-thru). <--- valid concern? I guess not, they do it at the factory. Think I saw 'The Italian Job' too many times (she has to drill thru a glass plate in a safe). ;)

Cheers,
Neal.

A drill press using a sharp forestner bit (for the ferrule - a brad bit for the string-entry side) w/the body sans parts is ideal. A bridge that will allow string-thru will also do top-mount so the choice will always be there to use either or both. Some players top mount lower string and string thru the rest.
 
A bridge that will allow string-thru will also do top-mount so the choice will always be there to use either or both. Some players top mount lower string and string thru the rest.
Actually, my Washburn Force 4 doesn't allow bridge stringing. It only allows it to be a string-thru (hard to see in this pic, but there is a screw in the way);

IMG_0149-2.jpg


Thanks for the info on how to do it, though. Much appreciated.

Neal.
 
Actually, my Washburn Force 4 doesn't allow bridge stringing. It only allows it to be a string-thru (hard to see in this pic, but there is a screw in the way);

View attachment 462554

Thanks for the info on how to do it, though. Much appreciated.

Neal.

I considered buying one of those bridges for a custom build and didn't because it didn't offer both modes. Most bridges only act as top-load, so I guess it goes either way.
 
It's easy to test if you want - run half the strings through body and the other half through bridge.

Yes! All the pointless pontificating gibberish about "I owned two basses that sounded different, so it has to be STB vs top-load. Use the same bass and test the strings at the same time. I strung one of my Lahland 494s with the E and D top-load and the A and G through-body. The other had this reversed. When I changed strings I reversed it. True side-by-side comparison of the same chunk of woods and metal, same string set, and same pickups. Same, not simply "just like".

There is absolutely no difference in feel nor sound.
 
Yes! All the pointless pontificating gibberish about "I owned two basses that sounded different, so it has to be STB vs top-load. Use the same bass and test the strings at the same time. I strung one of my Lahland 494s with the E and D top-load and the A and G through-body. The other had this reversed. When I changed strings I reversed it. True side-by-side comparison of the same chunk of woods and metal, same string set, and same pickups. Same, not simply "just like".

There is absolutely no difference in feel nor sound.

With stringing 2 strings STB and the other 2 top load than flipping them over, you are already mixing variables and adding to inconsistency of the results due to all 4 strings being of different gauge. How would you expect to feel any difference each time? String up G and E strings for me via STB and top load at the same time, than flip than over after a bit of playing...I wouldn't be able to decide the difference due to the mixed variables. Try stringing fully top load and playing for an hour or so than changing over to fully STB or vice versa. Muscle memory alone would be able to determine if there is a feel difference.

Anyways. It seems like people will draw their own conclusions even without 1st hand experience or perhaps just have totally different opinions on this. To each his/her own. Matters even less if you find there isn't a difference at all. String up whichever way you prefer and play away.
 
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I only have one STB bass; a Carvin LB-20. I could top load the strings, I guess, but I never have. My Kramer 450B is a 'sort-of' STB. It has a chamber routed out under the bridge plate, with holes for the ball ends too catch in; or it can be top loaded. I use the holes. No particular reason; it was strung that way when I bought it (as was the Carvin); the strings I like to use on them work just fine that way, and I see no reason to change.

As for whether or not it affects the sound; that's a subjective swamp I have no desire to splash around in. The Kramer and the Carvin sound just fine - to me - so the strings will stay as they are. As for the question "why have a STB?", the only reasons I can see are;
1. The bridge is usually small, neat, and compact;
2. Having the strings anchored in the body itself puts only downward pressure on the bridge, instead of trying to pull it (or the tailpiece) off the body (or fold it in half, ala the infamous Rickenbacker tailpiece). And, seeing as how soft woods for bass bodies (like basswood) are becoming more common, that's probably a good idea. :)