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Strings to tame a Sting Ray ?
- Thread starter Eden Ray
- Start date
This allllll day.
I have recently made the switch on my Stingray Special 5 and it made all the difference.
I’ve also used them on a Stingray and on an L-2500 and will also say I love them on both basses. Actually, they’re the only string that I’ve loved on every bass I’ve put them on and they’re my favorite string overall.
The things I like about them are: they’re a warmer sounding roundwound; I find them to be a relatively smooth feeling roundwound; they last a long time for me (I’ve gone as long as two years); and I find them to be pretty stiff feeling (which I love). If you don’t like a stiff feeling string, Sunbeams have just about the same qualities as nickel Lo Riders but are wound around a round core (the Lo Riders’ hex core helps make them stiff feeling). The only thing I don’t like about them is their relatively loose feel.
I also love Ken Smith Burners and find them to be pretty similar to nickel Lo Riders. They don’t seem to get mentioned a lot here, but I like them a lot. In general, any nickel plated roundwound would likely fit the tonal description you’re looking for.
The obvious answer, however, it a flat wound string. For a very thumpy and traditional flatwound sound, I love the Labella Deep Talking Flats. They do that sound well and, in my experience, they have more than enough mids and highs to articulate your notes. For even more high mids and highs, I love Chromes. They sound a little scooped to me, but I usually add some mids on the bass or on the amp if needed. They’re my favorite flat and I used them a few times with great success of one of my Stingrays (a 2007 ceramic 5HH). Also, both of those flats are pretty stiff feeling, which I prefer.
I’m in the minority in that I do NOT like TI Jazz Flats. They feel far too loose and floppy to me. I’ve also had mixed results on their tone. I didn’t mind how they sounded on my Precision V but I disliked them on my L-2500. But, again, I’m apparently in the minority because a lot of people really like them.
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Since changing EQ was specifically mentioned already in the OP, I’ll just add one more to the large chorus of Cobalt Flats, and a bump to the Nickel Lo-Riders tally.
To this I can only add “Boomers”.
To this I can only add “Boomers”.
On an Stingray I'd consider Elixers.
Big fan of EBCF and DR Nickel LoRiders on my passive Jazzes.
The Elixers however are what may have come on a US Cirrus? Were perfect on my old one. They do well taming the hi-fi zing from brighter basses while retaining round grunt.
Big fan of EBCF and DR Nickel LoRiders on my passive Jazzes.
The Elixers however are what may have come on a US Cirrus? Were perfect on my old one. They do well taming the hi-fi zing from brighter basses while retaining round grunt.
Sunbeams, Pure Blues, GHS Balanced Nickels, Sfarzo, GHS Pressure Wounds or Ken Smith Compressors (same strings, gauges slightly different)….
Any of these might work for you. You’ll have to do a lot of test driving, though.
Any of these might work for you. You’ll have to do a lot of test driving, though.
The trick with TI flats is to let the string and amp do the work. While they’re not for hard hitters a la Geddy Lee etc… they are fantastic for players who have a light touch. They also sing very nicely where the bridge pickup tension is. If you hear a lot of clack, lighten up the touch.
For some players that takes years upon years of practice to make it automatic like it did me. There are plenty of physical benefits to that as well.
For some players that takes years upon years of practice to make it automatic like it did me. There are plenty of physical benefits to that as well.
My favorite strings for soothing a savage beast of a bass are Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats or GHS Pressurewounds. If you need to stick with roundwounds, DR Sunbeams. 
A BIG THANK YOU to everyone for your posts.
I will try to reply specifically to some of them.
In the meanwhile…
As I mentioned in the OP, I did try to use the EQ on the bass or outboard, which yielded some good result, but I am curious to see what different strings can do.
I did not mention in the OP that for some reason I am kind of shy to try flats; but given the general enthusiasm of your posts, I will consider trying !
Sorry, I am not familiar with some abbreviations, what do TI stand for ?
I will try to reply specifically to some of them.
In the meanwhile…
As I mentioned in the OP, I did try to use the EQ on the bass or outboard, which yielded some good result, but I am curious to see what different strings can do.
I did not mention in the OP that for some reason I am kind of shy to try flats; but given the general enthusiasm of your posts, I will consider trying !
Sorry, I am not familiar with some abbreviations, what do TI stand for ?
Thomastik-Infeld, which is an Austrian string company known for designing and producing strings for orchestral instruments.
Thanks for the insight.
I thought this was quite well known among non-absolute beginners, hence who wrote those comments about the Hi Beams meant that the effect is particularly evident, or that the character changes more drastically, in a good way, than usual.
I get you.
That's where I am probably trying to get with my StingRay.
Not easy to get a P for a left handed living in the second world.
As a card carrying Stingray player, I can fully endorse Cobalt Flats as superior for the Ray! In fact, they are the primary string I use on a majority of my basses.
Indeed. I sold my HWY 1. P bass a few months ago, because I thought my Ray could kill everything---I was wrong and neddless to say, NOW I have an Amer. Pro ii P bass.
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