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Stripped Truss Rod

Please see below pictures. There is a collar before the actual socket for adjusting the trussrod. The folks at Fbass are great too, if you like the bass, please reach out to them with your questions; the last time I sent an e-mail I received a response directly from George himself. :)

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Ah based on that picture, I take back my comment. Wasn't aware there was a collar on the truss rod of these basses. Never seen one like that before. So now, curious what the OP really meant....wondering if he was using an allen key the size of the collar and trying to turn it from the tip of the collar rather than using a smaller allen key to go deeper into the truss rod and adjust it from there.
 
Hi Julian, welcome to TalkBass.

I don't see any specs on the F Bass site regarding truss rod type, dual action or double rods. It's a bolt on which makes things slightly easier, a stud extractor could be used to turn the TR but that is a botch job :thumbsdown:

I'd suggest in the first instance ,an email to F Bass asking in the nut is removable. If it is then the stud extractor will do. Bang it in until it bites then unscrew. Replace the nut,likely it's metric so keep all SA tools in another room :) If it's not removable then you could be looking at surgery. Fret board steamed off and replace the whole TR unit.

F Bass Site Support | F Bass, Inc

I just fixed a fairly new vintage style Fender precision with the old style truss rod nut with two snapped teeth with a reverse screw extractor, not sure if that's the same thing you're talking about but it has a reverse thread and screws in until it's tight, you keep tightening it and it unscrews the truss rod nut. I bought an Allen wrench style truss rod nut like the later Fenders with the same thread which is much better.
 
I just fixed a fairly new vintage style Fender precision with the old style truss rod nut with two snapped teeth with a reverse screw extractor
I know the type you used Bob,have a few sets myself. In this instance I would use this other type. As you tap the tapered end into the hex nut these cut new slots. Then you just unscrew the nut :thumbsup:
TMSE05S_2.jpg
 
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No that is what the FBass rod looks like. Let me take a pic of mine you need the correct size of Allen key.

There is a collar before the actual truss rod socket. A 4mm (5/32") Allen key will slide through the collar and into the socket. You may need to move the A string one way or the other to get it fully seated.
Problem solved right here, Folks.
 
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Please send me a picture.

Please see below - post #13 :) You need a 4mm (5/32) Allen key to adjust the truss rod.

Please see below pictures. There is a collar before the actual socket for adjusting the trussrod. The folks at Fbass are great too, if you like the bass, please reach out to them with your questions; the last time I sent an e-mail I received a response directly from George himself. :)

View attachment 3771182 View attachment 3771184
 
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looks like you just need the right wrench and some time to work on it..

thank god.

FYI- a busted truss rod is the only thing I consider to render a bass guitar "broken." it can be fixed, but it's so difficult to get it to come out perfect, and often will cost quite a bit of money.
 
I hope it's just a misinterpretation of the collar being stripped, whereas the wrench actually locks in below the circular collar. Hopefully it's just user error.

I'd 100% take this to a luthier if I had any doubts. If you do it yourself get the right wrench...if you chew up the truss opening with the wrong wrench and end up finding something else wrong you'll probably lose the opportunity to send it back.
 
You need a 4mm (5/32) Allen key to adjust the truss rod.
You might want a rethink on posting those sizes. There's a slight difference between the two, 5/32" is smaller. I'd say there's a good chance the F Bass uses the 4mm, being Canadian they'll be mostly metric.

5/32" key in a 4mm hex socket is loose and prone to slipping which in turn strips the socket. Using SA instead of the correct metric size probably caused the OP's problem in the first place.

This is not a dig,you're trying to help which is commendable,it's just posting both sizes suggests they are same.
The way you've worded it could lead to plenty stripped hex nuts.
 
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You might want a rethink on posting those sizes. There's a slight difference between the two, 5/32" is smaller. I'd say there's a good chance the F Bass uses the 4mm, being Canadian they'll be mostly metric.

5/32" key in a 4mm hex socket is loose and prone to slipping which in turn strips the socket. Using SA instead of the correct metric size probably caused the OP's problem in the first place.

This is not a dig,you're trying to help which is commendable,it's just posting both sizes suggests they are same.
The way you've worded it could lead to plenty stripped hex nuts.

I understand that, but if you look at the FBass website and navigate to their sold instruments (shop > in stock instruments) you can see on any of their BN, VF or AC models recently sold they list, “
Truss Rod: Two-Way, 4mm ( 5/32" ) wrench”.

here’s an example: AC5 5 String #981115 | In Stock Instruments | F Bass, Inc

Its also the reason why at least in one of the posts I listed the size that I prefer 4mm because it’s slightly more snug. Likely Fbass lists both because the difference between 4mm and 5/32 is 0.001”.
 
I understand that, but if you look at the FBass website and navigate to their sold instruments (shop > in stock instruments) you can see on any of their BN, VF or AC models recently sold they list, “
You know for the life of I could not navigate the F Bass site the other night :)

There's a good chance both sizes are given so US citizens have an idea. It's similar over here,Scottish building trade has been metric since mid 70's. I'm asking for 2 x 2, 4 x 2 all day long but what I'm actually fitting is 46 x 46 and 92 x 46.

I mainly pointed it out as the difference has caused quite a few problems in the Peavey circles. From 94 onward they went pretty all metric,hasn't stopped folks wrecking hex screws using SA tools.