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Double Bass Stripping and Refinishing

#21
Jon,

I've been reading this thread with interest, being an Engelhardt owner myself. From your replies it looks as though you stripped it in a day - is that right? I have no real woodworking experience, but I would have thought that that step would have taken a few days.
 
#22
It actually took two sessions. One where I stripped the table, and one for the rest of the bass. It's not completely finished yet (the little crevices aren't complete), so a third session will take care of the crannies and the scroll.
 
#24
Originally posted by tsolo
I'd love to strip my englehardt. probably loose about 20lbs. but i don't have the cahonas.
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I didn't realize how heavy my Englehart was untill I got my Christopher!
 
#26
Originally posted by Barefoot Larry


Did you find that Christopher in someone's local stock, or did you have to order it in?
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I bought it right from the distributor, while they were at TMEA here in SA.
 
#29
Help from an ex French Canadian:

cojones -- testicles, balls, nuts; courage, maybe not of the best-informed kind; macho "go-for-it"-ness.

I worked for a few weeks in a furniture stripping shop, and found steel wool to be excellent for getting into moldings. Might help with the scroll, PacMan (although it seems as if you don't lose any time thinking about these things.) These days I have a scraper for just about every occassion and personally would tend to use one of 'em.

So, you've been man-handling this bass like crazy and the post hasn't fallen? How jammed in there is it?
 
#30
Originally posted by Damon Rondeau
So, you've been man-handling this bass like crazy and the post hasn't fallen? How jammed in there is it?
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Well, I wouldn't say 'man-handling'. I've been sort of gentle, but I would've figured without strings on it, it would've fallen.... maybe not.

So, I've put a coat of stain on, and it's curing. I think they made the top out of driftwood, but the sides look pretty nice.
 
#32
Originally posted by Bob Branstetter
I realize that it is too late for Pacman, but on all violin family instruments, the color should be in the varnish - not in the wood.
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Once again proving that timing is everything! :p That's ok, though, it doesn't look bad (it doesn't look great, either) as it is. It has an old and worn look to it now that actually looks pretty cool. At least better than it did.....
 
#33
It's finally spring here in Wisconsin, and as young men are wont to do, I'm getting the urge to start my own Engelhardt makeover.

In my research, I've seen that some violin makers "season" or color the wood before varnishing. One guy used strong tea, and then put the violin in a garbage bag with some ammonia. What's up with that?

My Engel's pretty ugly--a large chunk of veneer missing from the rear lower bout. Maybe I should post some "before" pics and get some opinions before starting my project.
 
#34
Originally posted by Mike Goodbar
In my research, I've seen that some violin makers "season" or color the wood before varnishing. One guy used strong tea, and then put the violin in a garbage bag with some ammonia. What's up with that?
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Some makers will use tannic acid (strong tea) to brown the new white wood. Ammonia does about the same thing, but kind to tricky to use. On wood that has been finished and stripped, neither will work very well. Strip the bass clean and leave it "white" under the varnish. If the missing veneer pieces are near the edge, you can fill them in with new maple veneer and it will hardly show. Put anything else on the stripped wood, and it will just draw your attention to any veneer repairs. You are going to use violin varnish with the color in the varnish?
 
#35
Thanks, Bob.

The veneer damage is actually near the edge, so maybe there's hope.

Since I have little experience in these matters, I was going to use a "user-friendly" varnish like Waterlox, and add color to the varnish.

From other threads here, I've learned that I should apply a couple of clear, thinned sealer coats first, followed by a few coats of the colored varnish. Sound right?

Do I need to rub out between coats, or just scuff it?

Thanks
 
#36
Originally posted by Mike Goodbar
Since I have little experience in these matters, I was going to use a "user-friendly" varnish like Waterlox, and add color to the varnish.
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The problem with the "user friendly" varnishes is that the about the only colors available are analine stains. Analine stains are notoriously not light fast and fade very badly (usually to a sick yellow color). To me, it seems like a real waste of time to do something if you know it will fade in a few years (or less). How do I know? I had it happen to me on more than one occation. Violin varnishes cost more and are harder to apply, but the colors are much more light fast and resistant to fading.
 
#37
You can easily add artist's colors to the Waterlox. Buy colors with a high lightfastness rating--it's right on the tube. Dissolve in a little Liquin, then mix into the varnish. Strain out the buggers before using. You may need to thin a bit and/or add a few drops of linseed oil for flowability. Sorry, Bob, but I find most violin varnishes pretty crappy to work with, and the colors far from lightfast.
 
#38
I was referring to what is commonly available at woodworking stores. I agree that the artist pigment colors are for the most part light fast. But I would hardly consider this process to be the "user friendly" type that Mike was referring to. I was taught to spread the oil colors onto something that will absorb (like paper towels) most of the oil vehicle before trying to mix it into the solvent or varnish.

Like everything else in this world, there are good (expensive) and not so good violin varnishes. The cheaper ones probably use aniline or something similar to color the varnish and they will fade over time. Most really good varnishes are "cooked". The color in the varnish is either a result of the cooking or from the introduction of light fast natural gums like amber or light fast elements like iron. You have the choice of Spirit (alcohol solvent) or oil (terpentine solvent) based varnishes. Good violin varnishes do not fade much. Two and Three hundred year old instruments still retain most of their original color. Here is a website that describes good violin varnishes. Link Removed
 
#40
It didn't turn out so hot (as you may have guessed from my lack of posting). Certainly ugly enough to to not take a pic of it.


The thing is, those yellow basses are so ugly, that ugly looks cooler than they do :D So, it's my "other" bass, if I need to do a gig in freezing rain, I've got the bass for it!
 

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