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Stripping Rat Fur

Dec 20, 2012
27,397
19,561
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Chicago IL
I’m trying to rip the rat fur off my SWR 810. I want to sand it and stain. Make it a little more stylish. One side came off easily as easy. But the other side, whoa. It’s really on there. And I think the rest of it is too.

So, share me some experience here y’all. What’s the best way to get this stuff off this cab?? Thanks for any help, it’s appreciated.
 
Since no one else has offered up anything, I guess I'll chime in with my 2 cents worth.

It's too late for the first advice I would have offered, which is don't do it. It's way too dang much work to be worth while. Plus, you have to presume that the surface of the plywood underneath it is of the minimum quality...there's no reason to use a good-surfaced plywood if it's going to be covered with rat fur.

But since you're in it now... it all depends on what mastic that the manufacturer used for the carpet. It's not uncommon for a builder to spray an even coat of contact cement for that purpose, in which case, you may really be in for a tussle. I have also seen evidence of builders just putting a few beads of whatever adhesive they are using around the edges and a few more in the middle of larger, uninterrupted panels. But at any rate, I can't offer you much more advice than just scraping away at it with a paint scraper or maybe lifting up a corner and grabbing it with a pair of pliers and ripping away. There doesn't seem to be anything like a magic solvent that will dissolve that old adhesive. At some point, you want to have removed enough of the old covering that you can attack it with something like a belt sander or a large rotary rasp chucked into a drill. You'll need something pretty coarse, like 100 grit sandpaper to remove the remnants of the glue and carpet...BUT, you have to use some finesse, because you can go through the surface veneer really quickly. It would probably be smarter to do this with hand sanding, but I'm too lazy and impatient to do that my own self...it kind of depends on how much surface area you have to do. And of course, once you get all the glue off, you'll have sanding marks from the coarse paper that will require further sanding to smooth them out. And to be honest, what you'll have left won't really be what one would call stain-grade. At that point, I would recommend you look into painting it with Duratex.

Sorry if this sounds discouraging, but I do wish you luck in your endeavor. Keep us posted as to how it goes.
 
SWR has/had higher quality carpet above what is typical referred to as "rat fur"

To remove it Heat guns help but they can melt things.

Adhesive chemical removers can really help
"Adhesive Remover Non-Methylene Chloride"
Or things that are California safe. Follow the safety directions.

It's a slow process of pealing up an edge and applying the remover to the exposed edge as you work your way around but you can end up with a nice clean removal.

Once it's removed a layer thin finish grade ply over the top can add some nice grain.
 
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Several years ago, I removed rat fur from some GK cabs finished them with Duplicolor Truck Bed Liner. I use a hair dryer to so the adhesive would heat up and make it easier to remove. You just have to be careful not to set the fur on fire. A friend of mine poured a solvent such as Goo Gone or turpentine on to the fur and let it soak for a few minutes. This loosened the adhesive. It smelled pretty bad but did the trick. Make sure you do it outside.
 
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08B7097D-2C14-4ECF-A8AF-E603A7385334.jpeg
I stripped a Goliath lll with heat gun, scraper and belt sander.
I thought the ply was of good quality.
The secret is to take your time and not try to do the whole thing in one session.
 
FULL DISCLOSURE: I've never tried this on wood! *

I have tried it on many other things, & it works very well. IF, IF, you try some, pick a small spot no one will ever see. Take all this with a shaker of salt...

3m-general-purpose-adhesive-cleaner-group.jpg


*Please re-read the first sentence.
 
I did an Epifani PS115 cab and just pulled off the carpet and then used my belt sander . It would have been easier to build the cabinet from scratch . It now has Duratex on it and looks good but it was too much work . I had the same results as the guy in the thread offered above , there are some good pointers in it . I wish I would have read that before I did mine .
 
The 3M adhesive remover is probably decent. Under no circumstances use GooGone inside anywhere. The heat gun with kind of help. I would tolex the cab afterwards. I'm going to do my Genz Benz some time. I retolexed a few cabs. Honestly I enjoyed the project. Good luck