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Swapped EMG GZR PJ for DiMarzio Model P/J

Hi everyone,

Wanted to share my experience swapping EMG GZR PJ for DiMarzio Model P/J in a Fender MIA P bass.

I was happy with the Geezer's at first but found they lacked clarity and definition for faster stuff. They surely are low mid focused. I also thought the PJ sound was barely usable, too much mid scoop.

After some search around here, I tried Dimarzio's Model P/Model J and oh boy I was in for a treat : I'm not an expert, but i think they have more mid content and a better PJ tone. I'd say closer to a P sound but with added magic ...

Had many positive comments from band members and friends attending our rehearsals.

Sometimes the cheaper option might be the best.
 
Hi everyone,

Wanted to share my experience swapping EMG GZR PJ for DiMarzio Model P/J in a Fender MIA P bass.

I was happy with the Geezer's at first but found they lacked clarity and definition for faster stuff. They surely are low mid focused. I also thought the PJ sound was barely usable, too much mid scoop.

After some search around here, I tried Dimarzio's Model P/Model J and oh boy I was in for a treat : I'm not an expert, but i think they have more mid content and a better PJ tone. I'd say closer to a P sound but with added magic ...

Had many positive comments from band members and friends attending our rehearsals.

Sometimes the cheaper option might be the best.

o_O

That's odd, my experience is the exact opposite.

As far as I am concerned, and I am sure a frequency analyses would tell the same, the EMG Geezer Butler P pickup are not low mids focused at all, the Model P is though, the Geezer on the other hand has slight upper mids emphasis, and as far as I am concerned the Geezer is also a clear winner in terms of articulation, definition and clarity, the Model P is fuller sounding and punchier though, but also the Geezer would be vintage voiced, aka closer to a traditional P sound, whereas the Model P isn't.

Don't get me wrong, I do thing the Model P is a truly great P pickup, I just don't recognize how you compare it to the Geezer P at all, it's like you are in some sort of parallel dimension where everything is the exact opposite to this one.´


I just installed mine in a Jaguar SS, and I'm still assessing them. I think I have to reinforce the weld I made from the hot wire to the bridge pickup because it's noticeably quieter than the neck PU.

Nothing you can so will change that, the bridge pickup of that set will have lower output, that goes for both the Geezer P/J set and the Model P/J set (and most other P/J sets on the market for that matter), all you can do is adjust the J bridge pickup higher and lower the neck/middle P pickup.
 
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o_O
Nothing you can so will change that, the bridge pickup of that set will have lower output, that goes for both the Geezer P/J set and the Model P/J set (and most other P/J sets on the market for that matter), all you can do is adjust the J bridge pickup higher and lower the neck/middle P pickup.
That's very useful information. I have asked quite a few people, and they didn't answer quite so confidently. I do have my bridge pickup positioned quite a bit higher. There was a very big difference between the bridge and neck PUs despite that adjustment.

I went back into my control compartment today and saw that the hot wire for the bridge PU was barely touching the pot tab. I improved my weld and tested it again. Now, the two PUs are closer, but the bridge PU still has somewhat lower output.

I had a lot of trouble with this weld, even today. The solder just doesn't want to stick.
 
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A DiMarzio Model PJ set was the last pickups that survived the Great Geezer Takeover of 2014 until finally I ended up replacing them, too. But I do like the Model P a lot. IMHO, if you want a hot P pickup, it's the one to get. But bright it's not, and it's also way bigger in the low mids than the Geezer, whereas the Geezer is a little heavier in the mid mids.

But hey, Geezer used to use them, too :D
 
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A DiMarzio Model PJ set was the last pickups that survived the Great Geezer Takeover of 2014 until finally I ended up replacing them, too. But I do like the Model P a lot. IMHO, if you want a hot P pickup, it's the one to get. But bright it's not, and it's also way bigger in the low mids than the Geezer, whereas the Geezer is a little heavier in the mid mids.

But hey, Geezer used to use them, too :D
Slight mistake...I just looked up Geezer's BC Rich Eagle from the first Dio era and it had two Model P's on it, not a Model PJ set.
 
o_O

That's odd, my experience is the exact opposite.

As far as I am concerned, and I am sure a frequency analyses would tell the same, the EMG Geezer Butler P pickup are not low mids focused at all, the Model P is though, the Geezer on the other hand has slight upper mids emphasis, and as far as I am concerned the Geezer is also a clear winner in terms of articulation, definition and clarity, the Model P is fuller sounding and punchier though, but also the Geezer would be vintage voiced, aka closer to a traditional P sound, whereas the Model P isn't.

Don't get me wrong, I do thing the Model P is a truly great P pickup, I just don't recognize how you compare it to the Geezer P at all, it's like you are in some sort of parallel dimension where everything is the exact opposite to this one.´




Nothing you can so will change that, the bridge pickup of that set will have lower output, that goes for both the Geezer P/J set and the Model P/J set (and most other P/J sets on the market for that matter), all you can do is adjust the J bridge pickup higher and lower the neck/middle P pickup.

IME recent A/B experience the DiMarzios have mids all across the spectrum, which can read as definition defending on your setup. I'm thinking of using them to replace the stock overwound pickups on my Fernandes PJ. THAT'S low mids for real!
 
I had a lot of trouble with this weld, even today. The solder just doesn't want to stick.

You are aware that you need to hold the tip of the soldering iron down on the parts you plan to solder for a bit to heat up in order for the solder to stick and connect properly, right?

In case you already know this you might need a more powerful soldering iron in order for it to be able to heat up the solder spots properly (measured in watt).
 
You are aware that you need to hold the tip of the soldering iron down on the parts you plan to solder for a bit to heat up in order for the solder to stick and connect properly, right?

In case you already know this you might need a more powerful soldering iron in order for it to be able to heat up the solder spots properly (measured in watt).
That's the kind of thing that's easy to overlook or not be aware of. Actually, I was trying, but the access was not too good and I don't think I was getting it hot enough. There may be a bit of melted insulation plastic among the wires as well. When I did it the first time, I wasn't wearing adequately magnifying glasses (I didn't have any); I was kind of doing it by feel. I made the second attempt after I bought some better reading glasses, and I could see much better.

Maybe I need to do it one more time and remove the pot from the plate to improve the access.