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SWR Tower 8x10
- Thread starter Sprenth
- Start date
Be aware that depending how the drivers are compartmentalized you may be at risk of damaging the surviving drivers. As well, the cabs impedance is very likely incorrect right now.
I would pop it open and see if by chance there is just a connection or two wiggled loose. Do you know if it is a fully parallel or series/parallel wired cab? Do you know how to perform a re-wiring if needed?
I would pop it open and see if by chance there is just a connection or two wiggled loose. Do you know if it is a fully parallel or series/parallel wired cab? Do you know how to perform a re-wiring if needed?
looking at the manual online it says they are parallel. I also have never performed a rewiring job.
Thanks for a quick response
Fully parallel is simply all (+) together and all (-) together.
It stands to reason that there may just be a couple connections missing. Since you are getting sound, I actually figured its all parallel, but wanted to confirm.
It is likely your cab is 8 ohms right now. Depending on your amp it may be ok; but if it is set up as two 4x10 compartments, there is still risk to the working drivers.
It stands to reason that there may just be a couple connections missing. Since you are getting sound, I actually figured its all parallel, but wanted to confirm.
It is likely your cab is 8 ohms right now. Depending on your amp it may be ok; but if it is set up as two 4x10 compartments, there is still risk to the working drivers.
Ah! That’s what I was starting to think - two 4x10. So just check the connections on each and maybe resolder if necessary?
I really appreciate your help on this! It’s out my mind at ease
There are connectors on the speakers that plug in, I'm guessing that it's unusual for multiple drivers to fail so the four in the middle are probably in series and have lost a connection.
My first guess is one of the wires has loosened inside, that connects 4 drivers in parallel. The cabinet is probably a series/parallel wiring. That lets them use 8 x 8ohm drivers for a 4 ohm load.
I'm gonna follow this, but I'd also like to echo the sentiment that you shouldn't be turning it up or really playing it at all until it's fixed.
9 volt battery check?If the wiring and connections appear legit, I would guess the 9 volt battery check and or multi meter test on each driver would be next. Hopefully the problem is only in the wiring.
Yea, also useful for checking a driver's "polarity" i.e. positive signal equals outward movement of the cone. Anyway, basically run the positive and negative leads of a 9volt battery to the positive and negative leads of the driver. If the cone moves, my guess is that it's "ok".
Probably be better off searching the test topic for better wording as I'm not that good at explaining, hehe.
Best of luck!
Probably be better off searching the test topic for better wording as I'm not that good at explaining, hehe.
Best of luck!
If the cab is supposed to be (as you say the manual states) parallel, and you use those diagrams, you will have a 32 ohm cabinet when you re-wire it. Could you possibly just be reading the description of the connections on the outside of the cab. Those are definitely parallel, but the drivers inside the cab could certainly be series/parallel or fully parallel. Either is possible.
Considering this description from the user's manual, @Rockbobmel 's post seems highly plausible.
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