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SX basses. worth it?

Damn you all! I was just perusing this thread and then I got to thinking I'd look at Rondo's site and BAM!-- I bought another SX (my third....)

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Its the one I first wanted but couldn't find. NOS-- I hope its not some B stock something or another.....
 
I don't think the OP was asking if they were awesome or the best bass in the whole entire world...


He just wants to know if they..break easy..?

Can anyone answer that?I've never had one.


Has anyone ever had one..... break?
If so, was it easy?


:hiding:


I do recall a thread about a fella who wanted to "bust" a bass...I think...

:D
 
I don't think the OP was asking if they were awesome or the best bass in the whole entire world...


He just wants to know if they..break easy..?

Can anyone answer that?I've never had one.


Has anyone ever had one..... break?
If so, was it easy?

:hiding::D

Sheeet mun, thanks for reeling in this thread.... speaking for myself, I went way overboard.

I can only answer the OP's question if I can find someone to throw me a 90mph fastball.
 
This adequately sums up my experience with every SX bass I've touched. Quite frankly, they play and sound about like I'd expect given the price point. Not saying they are a bad deal, they just don't live up to the hype IMHO. They make cheap basses period.

I think the hype centers around many people coming to realize that they can get by with an inferior bass if they spend time getting it set up. All the comparisons to nicer instruments are usually of the "my setup SX plays as nice as an off the wall GC Mexi-Fender". Spend the time setting both up and the Fender, barring the occasional lemon, will smoke the SX IME.

IME, the Mexican Fenders have better (some) quality control and have better hardware, fit/finish. I did exactly what you mentioned on a MIM Fender as an experiment and to find out the answers to a lot of questions I had first hand. I performed the same mods as I would have done on an SX, and they were all necessary on the MIM to bring it up to premium playability.

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The Fender (or I should say THIS particular Fender copy) does not smoke the SX's. By spec, the Fender MIM jazz bass suffers from un-reinforced thin neckedness while the SX either by accident or by design has a thick neck profile that contributes to punchier tone and a higher ratio of good to great sounding instruments. If your personal standards are such that you'd have to do all of the same processes to a Fender MIM as you would to an SX anyways, why pay the extra $200-$300 for the base instrument to start out with? I guess the numbers really depend on what you consider a proper setup.

Out of the box, however, I've seldom opened an SX that I felt was remotely "right" or fun to play. After ~$300-$400 in repairs and upgrades, I've seldom found one that did not represent admirably.

The chances of getting an out-of-box serviceable Fender MIM or Ibanez are much better than SX but the bones of most SX's are excellent. It just takes a lot to bring out the potential and real gems pop up with some regularity.
 
Out of the box, however, I've seldom opened an SX that I felt was remotely "right" or fun to play. After ~$300-$400 in repairs and upgrades, I've seldom found one that did not represent admirably.

The chances of getting an out-of-box serviceable Fender MIM or Ibanez are much better than SX but the bones of most SX's are excellent. It just takes a lot to bring out the potential and real gems pop up with some regularity.

I was with you up until here. Asking respectfully, $300 to $400 on what repairs and upgrades?
And what are you comparing it to after the repairs/upgrades? Are you implying that MIM's and Ibanez need the same repairs/upgrades? If you don't mind, please clarify.
 
I was with you up until here. Asking respectfully, $300 to $400 on what repairs and upgrades?
And what are you comparing it to after the repairs/upgrades? Are you implying that MIM's and Ibanez need the same repairs/upgrades? If you don't mind, please clarify.

Let me elaborate a bit on what Chunger is saying given that I own BOTH a MIM Fender Deluxe V as well as several SX 5ers. First off note that the Fender, though hand picked by me for excellence and used cost twice what the SX basses did. [note that I test drove a large number of MIA and MIM Fender basses that were far less than stellar before picking this one]

I've been pretty lucky with my SX basses too. All seem to be quite well put together and none had to be returned for any reason.

Both brands needed new strings (we can assume that you will always do this to personalize the tone you want from the bass)

The SX basses come basically unshielded. So a copper foil shield job was in order for them. But even though the Fender WAS shielded (conductive paint) as is sometimes the case with fenders, it was not being totally effective. And the jack and battery compartment were not shielded. So that had to have copper treatment too to get rid of that last bit of hum!

When it came to necks I rather like a higher action so I didn't have to much deal with those, but I must admit that I love the hefty feel of the SX better than the Fender feel. It's just personal taste but just saying. In my case I'd say both were equally stable. Tuners on the Fender were MUCH higher quality than on the SX.

When we come to pickups is where some real cash needs to be spend and here things go their different ways. I LOVE the sound of the SX pickups. But they are single coil and hum pretty consistently when singled. The MIM Fender on the other hand has "noiseless" pickups that are quiet as mice. But I'm not at all thrilled with their tone. So here comes the "get out your wallet" part. The fix for either case seems to be a pair of something like Norstrand JJ5S pickups. But it does get you either bass to the boutique level. Personally I found nothing wrong with the bent metal bridge on either bass.

So the bottom line is that to get a killer bass there has to be a considerable investment in time and money in EITHER case. the fender started out costing twice as much, but is an authentic Fender which can be important when dealing with blues nazis, producers and the like. I've never had to take crap when I brought it even though it is a 5 string.

And quite frankly I was surprised when test driving Fenders how many there were out there that left much to be desired in fit finish and over all feel. And I was equally surprised how lucky I was with the SX bass that were shipped to me. (I do have an SX strat that is a dog, however)

Anyway I think you see the lay of the land. A fender costs more but it's a Fender. It sounds, looks and feels like a Fender. An SX in many ways to me is "better than a Fender" but that's MY taste. YMMV. On the other hand it's just a Chinese clone and no matter how great it sounds/plays that isn't going to change.

And you may notice that if you start laying out big bread for high end pickups for either bass, you start getting into the money range where you could pick up a nice used Lakland or something that needs minimal repairs and again be in the same ball park. So three ways to go. Three choices as to what you want.
 
I was with you up until here. Asking respectfully, $300 to $400 on what repairs and upgrades?
And what are you comparing it to after the repairs/upgrades? Are you implying that MIM's and Ibanez need the same repairs/upgrades? If you don't mind, please clarify.

1. The biggest difference is leveling and crowning the frets. . . I've been doing PLEK, but previously was doing it by hand. I like to run my action ~.085" @ E string and ~.080" @ G string. To get there cleanly on an off-the-assembly-line instrument I've found is really lucky. The SX's have way more funky surprises going on fret-wise than others mentioned (there is mention a couple times on this thread of folks pounding down a fret or 2 to make it work), but if you're going to level them anyways, it doesn't really matter. . . save the money on the front end.

2. Shielding and electronics. . . while the stock pots/jack work, I have to remove them to install foil shielding, so I just put new ones back in. Many of the SX jazz basses will not fit full sized pots without routing the control cavity for clearance.

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3. Neck shimming and threaded inserts. I'd say about 8 out of every 10 SX's need to be shimmed in order to run low action. . . a simple change in the neck pocket spec (cut shallower) would skew those figures favorably, but it seems at this price point (My wild guess ~$60 ea. at wholesale), there's not much that can be done about the labor force or process by which these things are assembled. The neck screws on the SX basses are sort of randomly hand drilled, so necks are completely non-interchangeable and the screw hole paths crooked. The neck pockets are a roll of the dice. I found that installing threaded inserts yields a non-trivial improvement in sustain and punch, so I just install them as standard . . . unless the client is really short on cash and I'm doing bare minimums.

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4. Pickup/Neck/Bridge alignment. . . Fender has this problem as well. Many times, these don't line up properly and I end up plugging a bunch of holes and re-aligning things (pickguards/bridges/neck) which saps a lot of time.

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5. Pickups. . . So far, I seem to be the only person who finds this a problem, but the SX pickups distort when hit hard in a very harsh way (P and J pickups). I call it the "SX effect". Feathering the intensity especially when slapping minimizes the effect, and if you play under the threshold, the basses sound great. . . exceed the threshold, and "SX effect". I change all the pups out now. I'm using custom developed Nordstrands.

SX effect:
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6. Nut. . . I keep stock nuts on when they work, but they are often hacked up straight from the factory. When that is the case or when someone request it, I cut a new nut.

7. Strings. . . choose your weapon. .. . most anything you pick will be better than the factory SX roundwounds.

Add all that up for parts and labor, and you get into the range I was describing for costs. Do a bunch of it yourself, and you have a great deal on a sweet instrument. In my personal opinion, the really, really good SX's can go toe to toe with anything out there when finished in terms of tone and playability and that's what I compare them against. . . F-bass, Lakland, Lull, Fender. In all other respects (fit, finish, hardware, etc.), they are still "just SX's". When all the above mods have been properly executed on an SX, it does not feel, sound, or play anything like it did when it came out of the factory box.

MIM's and Ibanez's will not absolutely require all of the fixes and mods. . . but most of the mods still produce significant improvements over stock. Stock MIM pickups don't have "SX effect" and neither do the stock Ibanez ones, so they don't need to be fixed. Stock Fenders are shielded, but for whatever reason, the shield system does not work as well as a properly grounded copper foil shield job along with proper grounding on the electronics. Neck joints on factory Fenders benefit the same as SX's though from threaded inserts.

These of course, are my opinions, and a lot of people are perfectly happy to leave it all be and just play the stock SX. I started immediately finding things wrong with the 1st SX I owned and immediately took it apart to fix the problems.
 
If you listen closely, you'll hear on the loud transients, what sounds almost like digital distortion. . . a sharp click sound. . . not smooth or natural at all.

I did notice something like that on mine when I first played it, only heard it when I thumped the E string with the thumb.

I slightly lowered the pickup and whatever that clipping sound disappeared.
 
the SX p-bass pickups do it too. . . I found that I have to back the pickups up way too far to feather the threshold, but I sacrificed too much fingerstyle tone when I did that. In the end, I was not happy with the compromise and started searching for replacements solutions.

Sometimes, we miss the SX effect. . . it's a sortof comforting thing knowing you can wank on an SX really hard and, "oh. . . there's the SX effect again." But, if you're in a recording session and do not know where it's coming from, it can be maddening. I didn't want to put anyone through that if they happened to take one of my basses in for a session. Even with the gains on the preamps backed off silly far, the distortion would come through. It took a while to isolate the problem to the pickups.
 
the SX p-bass pickups do it too. . . I found that I have to back the pickups up way too far to feather the threshold, but I sacrificed too much fingerstyle tone when I did that. In the end, I was not happy with the compromise and started searching for replacements solutions.

Sometimes, we miss the SX effect. . . it's a sortof comforting thing knowing you can wank on an SX really hard and, "oh. . . there's the SX effect again." But, if you're in a recording session and do not know where it's coming from, it can be maddening. I didn't want to put anyone through that if they happened to take one of my basses in for a session. Even with the gains on the preamps backed off silly far, the distortion would come through. It took a while to isolate the problem to the pickups.

The pickups are wire and magnets, right? What's the culprit?
 
I slightly lowered the pickup and whatever that clipping sound was disappeared.

I've taken apart many SX pickups and the only reason I can come up with for the "SX effect" is that the poles are tall and very much exposed so it's easier for the strings to come too close if not even directly in contact with them, especially for people who like raising their pickups close to the strings and/or play aggressively.

I never get the "SX effect" but then I either machine the poles to a shorter length so that they're flush with the pup housing or lower them on the basses on which I change up my technique often... slap to pizz to plec to hammering. A further distance between pickups and strings reduces volume spikes or variances due to playing style changes... it's at the cost of reduced expression but then that's not too much of a factor when playing a RnR gig.