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Synthetic Oil - Better?

#41
I've switched several of my cars over to synth from dino oil. I switched my VW Golf over at about 50,000 miles and the front main seal started leaking about 185,000 miles later. I just got the main, aux shaft, and camshaft seals replaced when the timing belt was replaced at 240,000 miles, so that's under control now; I expect my oil use will now go back to much less than a quart per change, which is at ~8000-mile intervals.

The first car I switched to synth was a 74 Capri whose engine I rebuilt 20 years ago. After the first post-rebuild oil change at about 750 miles (it was interesting to see very fresh-looking but sparkly oil draining out of the pan), I used Mobil 1. The engine was great after that, but it's too bad that engine oil can't protect the body and chassis in a region of snow and road salt. ;)

I switched my wife's Subaru Forester to Mobil 1 at about 85,000 miles; unfortunately, it got rear-ended and totaled a few months later. It did not leak oil. I recently changed her new Forester to Mobil 1 synthetic at about 8,000 miles.
 
#42
DEVILMAN said:
PS: Here's a pic of one of my beast...
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Details of your beast??

Here's one of mine.......
 

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#43
...cool, has plates huh...

440+cid, N20, 727 w/brake, 10.5" car, leafs, etc. Original stick/360 R/T car. Ran it with a 383 on the street in the 80's, lotta fun...

Also have '67 Belvedere w/stick, 440+,leaf car. Currently, swapping parts from Aspen(just sold it to my cousin)...

had '73 Duster, back halfed, 18. chromemoly cage, etc. Had 528" Hemi few years back. Sold it for a 9sec Suzuki & 11 sec 'charged Stang.

Also have had MANY others, still got enough stuff to have "a lot of fun"...

~S~
 
#44
I use Mobile 1 in everything I own, not the "extended performance" just the normal synthetic stuff that's been around for a while. People have done tests on the stuff and it resists breakdown well beyond its rating. I'm a gearhead too and can't see synthetic being the cause of any type of failure, unless the old oil had formed a clot somewhere and the synth breaks it free causing a leak. Synthetics leave a thin film of oil on bearings and other parts that prevents excessive wear during startup.
 
#45
Cougar207 said:
I use Mobile 1 in everything I own, not the "extended performance" just the normal synthetic stuff that's been around for a while. People have done tests on the stuff and it resists breakdown well beyond its rating. I'm a gearhead too and can't see synthetic being the cause of any type of failure, unless the old oil had formed a clot somewhere and the synth breaks it free causing a leak. Synthetics leave a thin film of oil on bearings and other parts that prevents excessive wear during startup.
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Dino oils are naturally tenacious with metal surfaces, too. Some oils are better than others, of course.

One area where I found synthetics superior to dino oils was in cold (the engine, that is) starts in very cold temperatures. The oil pressure would get up to normal noticeably more quickly with synthetics.
 
#50
Bob Lee (QSC) said:
One area where I found synthetics superior to dino oils was in cold (the engine, that is) starts in very cold temperatures. The oil pressure would get up to normal noticeably more quickly with synthetics.
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Or you could just buy dino oil of the correct weight for anticipated temperatures...I find 10W-35 to be a happy medium for all temps. At least for my truck and where I live.
 

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