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The Hossenfeffer Bass Build

I used scrapers so much on the recent build, it's a great way to get smooth curve in wood, without any gouging, most of my scraped areas barely even need any sanding. It is quite a workout for the hands though if you do it for an hour or two.

Yeah I like scraping, I have a set of scrapers and an edge burnisher. Planes have a natural habit of curving the ends of a flat piece of wood and need care to prevent that. If one planes a long flat piece of wood...eventually it turns into a gentle radius on the top. Scrapers seem to do the opposite. They seem to prefer to remove material from the center of the piece of wood...so over time crates a concave curve. So it's wise to use both to flatten out a piece of wood....or cheat and use a thickneser or sanding machine (if you have access to one). But scraping is very rewarding...seeing big curls of wood like on a plane building up....the only problem is the heat generated and burned pinkies.
 
Yeah I like scraping, I have a set of scrapers and an edge burnisher. Planes have a natural habit of curving the ends of a flat piece of wood and need care to prevent that. If one planes a long flat piece of wood...eventually it turns into a gentle radius on the top. Scrapers seem to do the opposite. They seem to prefer to remove material from the center of the piece of wood...so over time crates a concave curve. So it's wise to use both to flatten out a piece of wood....or cheat and use a thicknesser or sanding machine (if you have access to one). But scraping is very rewarding...seeing big curls of wood like on a plane building up....the only problem is the heat generated and burned pinkies.
Having ignored scrapers my whole life, now I'm like a Born Again Scraper Dude, keep grabbing it for everything. I love it for scraping binding flush with the body. I see what you mean about it carving hollows though, I seem to always end up with a slight radius at the end of each stroke, which kind of bit me in the a** a couple times. I haven't got a really consistent sharpening technique down yet, one side always end up better than the other, more practice required.
 
Finally stole a couple hours of shop time from the jealous Gods of Drudgery. The obligatory neck glue-up photos, ripsnorting excitement I'm sure, but at least I finally started!

Cad drawing and neck blanks
DSC00911_zps0af289b9.jpg

Hi, mate, would it be possible to ask you for the file?
 
Long time, No Post,
In my further pursuit of the World's Slowest Build, I had a lovely summer of family, friends, and abject sloth. Now back to it:

I had glued on the fingerboard and despite my best efforts, it drifted about 1/128" to one side of the neck blank. Attempting to scrape the fingerboard and binding flush with the neck beam, I overdid it on the right side thusly:
IMG_3905_zpsshh1kgjk.jpg

Yeah, I know, nit-picky, but that's the difference between hack work and something I'll be proud of, so it had to go.

I routed off the screwed up binding with my nifty new Stewmac binding cutter and a .040 bearing, worked perfectly. It occurred to me, however, that I never checked how much fret slot depth I had left after radiusing the board. I did that AFTER the binding was on, so I had no way to check it. The fretwire tangs are around .070 deep, looks like I have just over that in slot depth, at least on the G string side. I don't have anything capable of measuring .000" that will fit in the fret slots, but a rough measure with my Incra-Ruler leads me to worry the slots are a hair shallower on the E string side.
IMG_3907_zpswmz6vpaa.jpg


So... A bit of advice? I can:

A. Route off the other side binding, buy a standard fret saw, and deepen the slots. If I go that route, i might as well do all of it, and change to .060 thick binding. The .040 looks a little wimpy anyway.

B. Get one of these Stewmac widgets for cutting an existing fret slot deeper when you have binding already on:
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I'm leaning towards "A", but maybe some of the more experienced luthiers can suggest a better option.

Thanks for looking
 
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