The Hossenfeffer Bass Build

[gsnad2000]

I had my 1/4" bit break on me while routing a truss channel recently. It came out of there like hotcakes! I literally stood there checking myself for gunshot style wounds for a couple minutes.
Very exciting.

 

[Hopkins]

That's an excellent rule of thumb I always follow, same with a tablesaw. The exciting router incident I referred to was basically tripping over the cord, which drove the bit into the wood, which then kicked back and flung it out of my hands. Luckily it flung away instead of towards me. I get a little sweaty just thinking about it. Now I either use the table or watch the cord! I know I should use the blade guard, haven't figured out how to make it work for template routing.

I can't think of anyway a router table blade guard could be anything other than in the way.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

In my continuing effort to demonstrate every possible mistake and incremental setback, I offer today's lesson in Crystal Clear Hindsight entitled:

Over-Reliance on the Holding Power of Carpet Tape

Template routing the headstock, and the effing template slipped, got a nice 1/8" deep gouge at the neck/headstock transition on both sides as my poorly secured template waggled around. Hmmmmm. Maybe I could have secured it in place using the 4 TUNER HOLES!! Sigh..... Luckily this happened after only the second router depth adjustment, so it's still fixable.

Time to break out the Minwax "High Performance Wood Filler" (pre-mixed bondo and sawdust). It worked well on my body tearout gouges, sands like wood and doesn't seem to shrink at all.

\

When it cures I'll scrape the templates back into shape and use them to re-cut the wood/bondo edge. Hopefully this won't telegraph through the black paint and clearcoat.

While I wait for that to harden up, took a crack at checker binding. I've seen videos of people doing both checker and outer binding in one pass, but this stuff is hard enough to bend as-is. After a few dry runs I decided it was better to do the checker binding first, then the outer binding. In theory this will let me shave the checker binding a little at the tight radius curves where it tends to want to bulge out over my inner "shelf". lets hope it works out that way!

 

[mapleglo]

In my continuing effort to demonstrate every possible mistake and incremental setback, I offer today's lesson in Crystal Clear Hindsight entitled:

Over-Reliance on the Holding Power of Carpet Tape

Template routing the headstock, and the effing template slipped, got a nice 1/8" deep gouge at the neck/headstock transition on both sides as my poorly secured template waggled around. Hmmmmm. Maybe I could have secured it in place using the 4 TUNER HOLES!! Sigh..... Luckily this happened after only the second router depth adjustment, so it's still fixable.

Time to break out the Minwax "High Performance Wood Filler" (pre-mixed bondo and sawdust). It worked well on my body tearout gouges, sands like wood and doesn't seem to shrink at all.

\

When it cures I'll scrape the templates back into shape and use them to re-cut the wood/bondo edge. Hopefully this won't telegraph through the black paint and clearcoat.

While I wait for that to harden up, took a crack at checker binding. I've seen videos of people doing both checker and outer binding in one pass, but this stuff is hard enough to bend as-is. After a few dry runs I decided it was better to do the checker binding first, then the outer binding. In theory this will let me shave the checker binding a little at the tight radius curves where it tends to want to bulge out over my inner "shelf". lets hope it works out that way!

Like you, I had my share of double stick tape mishaps. The first time, I used that super, really thick foam tape, which held well, but took an act of "Gilmore" to remove. I think I ruined two tools removing it. The second time, I used thinner tape, and it slipped, destroying the piece I was working on. Now I use only clamps and screws. It's takes more time, and they have to be moved at least once during the operation, but no slips.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Can the cb be heated to bend?

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I heated the CB about as much as I dared, it starts to distort at a certain point. Its actually taking the curves ok, i think my ledge is slightly inconsistent in depth at the tight radius turns. I think anything that thick (.070") is going to be tough to bend regardless. We'll see how it looks when I go to put the outer binding on, but I I'm guessing I'll have to scrape it a little. The acetone seems to make it swell a little, maybe it will shrink back when it dries? More inexperience on my part , hope I get a way with it. The .060 outer binding gives me a little forgiveness (I hope) if I have to scrape it back flush with the body.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Got the binding finished, looks like hell now, but I expect it will look good once it's all scraped flush with the body. After some ugly experimentation and destruction of a couple pieces of binding, I realize it is better to glue both layers simultaneously. It's almost impossible to keep the inner layer plumb and flush otherwise.

Got the headstock re-template cut, double stick taped AND clamped this time. Another approach that seems obvious after you screw it up. I still found this a bit difficult to get a smooth transition from headstock to neck, transitioning between two templates at the headstock angle. How are other people doing this?

Neck cut to taper with FB overlaid for show. Getting closer to the point where I run out of excuses to put off the neck carve any longer.

Picked this rasp set up on sale at Harbor Freight 20% off sale, plus coupon, plus free crappy tape measure for $7.99! Whoot! Not exactly a Shinto rasp, but at that price I couldn't pass it up. Tried it on some scrap, seems to do a decent job.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Careful, we'll all be sending our 4003's to you for CB!

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Careful, we'll all be sending our 4003's to you for CB!

I am developing a keen appreciation for why these are $1800 basses, even with CNC machining of the basic parts, its still a ton of hand fitting, and because it's neck-through, everything has to come out right the first time. The whole binding process was pretty nerve wracking, but now I know what to expect, I could do it again. I already promised my son a 4003W build, but probably not with CB.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

I can see why it makes sense to route the rabbet on the body wings and install the CB before they are mounted to the neck. If you can develop a method to separate or crack them cleanly off, you will have more business than you could hope for.

 

[earlysecond]

Gilmour- so sorry, not sure how I missed this post, I was not able to read it all right now. BUT I will. Looks most impressive, love the fretboard and the headstock shape. I just bought that same set of files and rasps with the same coupon! I really like them. The other think I like is the rasp bits that I mount up in a drill and will dare to mount up in my air powered die grinder!

I'm hoping the project turns out to your satisfaction, I'm sure it will be great!

Brent

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Tried my hand at cabinet scraping today. Never used one, so I was clueless, but kept seeing the name Bahco come up as good quality, so I got one on Amazon. I flattened and honed the edges on my DMT diamond stones, and tried the nailset trick as a burnisher. I got some shavings, but a lot of dust too, so I think I'll suck it up and spring for a real burnisher. More practice turning a burr should yield better results. It's about time I learned to use one of these.

Tried scraping the binding flush at the body sides, seems to work really well on both wood and binding. The outer binding thickness will vary a little due to my slightly shoddy first time binding job, but i don't think it will be too noticeable once the binding edge is rounded over a little.

 

[PDX Rich]

I takes a little doing, but scrapers are the best. Take a look at Ben from Crimson Guitars on YouTube. His technique for sharpening is simple and straightforward. The act of scraping is all by feel. A slight torque of the hands and working with the scraper angle is key.

 

[Jisch]

I used scrapers so much on the recent build, it's a great way to get smooth curve in wood, without any gouging, most of my scraped areas barely even need any sanding. It is quite a workout for the hands though if you do it for an hour or two.

 

[Scoops]

Tried my hand at cabinet scraping today. Never used one, so I was clueless, but kept seeing the name Bahco come up as good quality, so I got one on Amazon. I flattened and honed the edges on my DMT diamond stones, and tried the nailset trick as a burnisher. I got some shavings, but a lot of dust too, so I think I'll suck it up and spring for a real burnisher. More practice turning a burr should yield better results. It's about time I learned to use one of these.

Tried scraping the binding flush at the body sides, seems to work really well on both wood and binding. The outer binding thickness will vary a little due to my slightly shoddy first time binding job, but i don't think it will be too noticeable once the binding edge is rounded over a little.

This is so much fun to watch

 

[Japheth M]

The binding looks great! I've always been a fan of that look

 

[Gilmourisgod]

A little mockup teaser with binding all scraped flush, smoke and mirrors.....

And here's why the newer Rics have a continuous taper on the neck beam instead of parallel sides.. The two wings meet the neck beam at different points along the fingerboard taper, so a little bit of wood has to be shaved off the side and top of the neck beam. Going to be a fussy bit of careful paring not to eff this up.

I tried a couple other hard steel widgets to burnish the scraper, back of a gouge, screwdriver rod, etc, still getting more dust than shavings on the maple, though it does cut the binding like cold butter. Burnishers are expensive!

 

[BigJohnAZ]

Can't wait to see this finished! Looking great.

 

[Hopkins]

That binding looks great. I know that required a lot of patience on your part, I absolutely hate doing binding lol

 

[PDX Rich]

Love the binding. Way to stick it out!