Yes i used the sanding dust plus ca glue and it worked perfectly to hide a multitude of sins
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The Hossenfeffer III Build
- Thread starter Gilmourisgod
- Start date
Yes i used the sanding dust plus ca glue and it worked perfectly to hide a multitude of sins
Do you have any little scraps of it?
You could cut 2 shallow slots with the fret saw in a piece of scrap and fill one with black CA and one with clear CA and dust.
You could cut 2 shallow slots with the fret saw in a piece of scrap and fill one with black CA and one with clear CA and dust.
May I suggest that you use one of the cutoffs when you trimmed the board for your fretboard and try the different options to see what looks best to you??
Yeah, that’s the plan, just hoping somebody had done inlays on the Ebano. Some tiny gaps seems to be within the accepted standards for inlay, in retrospect, this would have been a perfect job to farm out to somebody with a small CNC setup, both the inlays and recesses. Unfortunately no Maker spaces nearby. I found cutting the ellipse inlays really difficult, the human eye (mine anyway) sees the tiniest flaw. I put off cutting the recesses until next weekend, I have to psych myself up to it and really focus.
Another one of those crazy reasons I decided to build a CNC!!
I agree with you 100%!!
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
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- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
I don't have experience with ebano.
But I would assume... that without using dust, your patch might be more visible.
Like... not necessarily a color shade difference... but a textural variation that will reflect light differently.
... maybe.
I would use dust. And plain, thin CA.
I tried black Starbond a few years ago. Didn't like it.
It seemed to never really dry hard. Maybe I got a bad batch, or an old bottle...idk.
With such an ambitious undertaking, I feel like any imperfections that you would likely need a microscope to see, will be acceptable.
I've never done inlays before and my eyesight has deteriorated quite a bit in the last few years. I'm strongly considering small rectangular inlays at the top of the board to serve as both face and side markers. Simple and straight lines. And I'm worried about getting that right.
Hand cut ovals is a whole nother level.
Not something I would attempt at this stage. But it looks like they will look great, from the pics so far.
I've never done inlays before and my eyesight has deteriorated quite a bit in the last few years. I'm strongly considering small rectangular inlays at the top of the board to serve as both face and side markers. Simple and straight lines. And I'm worried about getting that right.
Hand cut ovals is a whole nother level.
Not something I would attempt at this stage. But it looks like they will look great, from the pics so far.
NOW you tell me! I saw Starbond on a YT inlay video, guy claimed it was the Best Thing Ever.... maybe I'll try clear CA and dust first, if it looks good, I'll return the Starbond. Good Old Prime free returns!
Because you are a sane human being. What's the Hardest inlay to pull off for a first timer? Maybe an ELLIPSE?
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
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- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
It was several years ago. Don't take my word for it.
Maybe they have improved their formula?
Ben Crowe swears by the stuff.
...so....I just think tiny gaps (in ebony anyway)... are best filled with dry dust... then saturated by wicking in thin CA
So, a little note on Starbond and some "insider info" for you guys. I know A LOT of woodturners who swear by Starbond, and I plan on getting a kit myself....eventually. But here's the rub, generally speaking they squirt it with the accelerator to harden it instantly. I'm not saying you need to, I'm just saying 99.9% of the time, they do.
Also, here's the kicker, stop paying full price! There's literally 100 woodturners on YouTube who are sponsored by Starbond (maybe 1000, maybe even more), and they have a 10% off code (maybe you can search real hard and find a 15% code), so you can save a couple dollars there by using one of those codes. My friend Daniel at "Tournage Dubois" has a code for 10%, so you could do me a favor by using his code - "DoubleD10".
I'm not a Starbond sponsored wood turner, so I don't have a code or I'd give you that one. But Daniel is a good friend of mine, so I'll give you his.
At $40 (plus 10% off with code above), this is a pretty good deal -
Starbond 2 oz. Thin, Medium, Thick CA and 6 oz. Accelerator Bundle
Also, here's the kicker, stop paying full price! There's literally 100 woodturners on YouTube who are sponsored by Starbond (maybe 1000, maybe even more), and they have a 10% off code (maybe you can search real hard and find a 15% code), so you can save a couple dollars there by using one of those codes. My friend Daniel at "Tournage Dubois" has a code for 10%, so you could do me a favor by using his code - "DoubleD10".
I'm not a Starbond sponsored wood turner, so I don't have a code or I'd give you that one. But Daniel is a good friend of mine, so I'll give you his.
At $40 (plus 10% off with code above), this is a pretty good deal -
Starbond 2 oz. Thin, Medium, Thick CA and 6 oz. Accelerator Bundle
Ive done Rick style triangular Faux MOP inlays and crushed MOP of the same layout, but that was all straight lines extending the width of the board, so it's basically just cutting a couple straight lines and then hogging out the waste. These oval inlays are properly kicking my a**.
Rôckhewer
Commercial User
- Feb 28, 2015
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- Owner/Builder- RockHewer Custom Guitars LLC
.... but... given my experience... it stands to reason that... you might. ... need to.
Maybe that's why I thought the stuff was goopy and un-hardenable. I didn't use the activator.??
... hmmmmm
Re: grinding Ebano into the MOP, in my experience MOP is pretty non-porous and a much bigger problem is getting MOP dust into dark wood or ebony dust into maple.
Also, I *never* do climb cuts with a router or dremel If I can help it.
Here are a couple of my attempts to follow lines on a guitar stand and a cello stand.
Also, I *never* do climb cuts with a router or dremel If I can help it.
Here are a couple of my attempts to follow lines on a guitar stand and a cello stand.
I was just reading something about ebony dust contaminating maple, they suggested putting on a coat of shellac or some other seal-coat before sanding ebony in close proximity to maple. Sounds like good advice. I like to do all the work on the fretboard, including sanding an final polish, short of hammering in the frets before gluing it on, so I think I'll be OK if If I just keep the ebanol dust away from any maple for now. I probably should have gotten the Starbond accelerator too, though my experience with accelerator is that it either leaves bubbles in the CA or creates a whitish stain. Supposedly Glu-Boost doesn't do that. They make a black CA glue too, but it's semi-transparent unless you add some colorant. I'll do few test fills on the ebano scrap and see what looks best
The complete lack of daylight between the inlays and the binding is fantastic. Mad skills.
- Apr 18, 2008
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- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
So agree. For all the self-deprecating modesty, @Gilmourisgod produces some fine, fine work!
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