The Mike Lull Club Part 4

[funkythumb]

Yes, ash/maple. How heavy is your bass?

I will tell you a denser bridge will help with compression, sustain, and focus, removing some of the natural dampening of the wood (which also translates to what people refer to as "punch")... this is why they became so popular even back in the 70's, back before low B strings were really very prevalent on basses.

It's a balancing act between the dynamic punch of a bass, which is about the attack, but also initial decay, vs compression, which translates to sustain, focus, and tonal purity. You want dynamics of course, but not so much that that's all you have... unless of course all you do is like thumb mute work.

I realize I'm speaking extreme cases here, but that's to illustrate the core points.

If you have a fairly non-dense wood, then the wood is going to get a lot more involved in the dynamic component, and sometimes, compensating with a dense coupling (bridge) balances it out nicely by providing some isolation from the wood's involvement.

If you have a fairly dense wood (like a 11-12 pound bass, for example), the wood won't be as invasive to the string vibration, so you want a coupling that's more transparent and involves the wood more, as opposed to isolating the strings from it.

Hope this helps.

Those are hopeful words to my ear Vic! My alder bodied bass weighs 9.2. What you're describing is exactly what Mike said would happen with a brass bridge. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm really loving the E-G strings. All sound great. Terrific slap sound as well. I'll definitely be posting on here the results of the bridge swap!

 

[jake3]

Those are hopeful words to my ear Vic! My alder bodied bass weighs 9.2. What you're describing is exactly what Mike said would happen with a brass bridge. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm really loving the E-G strings. All sound great. Terrific slap sound as well. I'll definitely be posting on here the results of the bridge swap!

I'm interested to hear the outcome.

I see you have an Upton Brescian as well. How are you liking that? I'm thinking of getting (another) Upton.

 

[funkythumb]

I'm interested to hear the outcome.

I see you have an Upton Brescian as well. How are you liking that? I'm thinking of getting (another) Upton.

I'm loving mine. It's the best all-around bass I've owned and I've owned more expensive basses.
Finally did an arco gig with some members from the Atlanta Symphony and thought it sounded lovely. Caveat, I'm not really an arco guy.
Terrific pizz sound for jazz. Rich tone, focused tone, leaning on upper mids. My Upton ply had more bottom, if that helps. The Brescian has more of a violin tone focused in the upper mids, with more complex mid qualities as expected in a hybrid vs. ply.
Once I unstuck the bridge from the varnish on the body, the E string came alive! I'm now thoroughly comfortable with it and happy with it to cover all my upright needs as my one and only acoustic. Someday, I'll add a second as a backup.
What's your current Upton? Please describe the qualities.

 

[Vic]

Those are hopeful words to my ear Vic! My alder bodied bass weighs 9.2. What you're describing is exactly what Mike said would happen with a brass bridge. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm really loving the E-G strings. All sound great. Terrific slap sound as well. I'll definitely be posting on here the results of the bridge swap!

Well, I wouldn't expect a 9+ pound bass to be too far off the mark on compression vs punch, but that's so subjective it's hard to say... I will say this tho... if the E-G are all great and the B is ok, but just not quite good enough, then the bridge might be just enough of a change to "get you there". Don't expect a huge massive night/day difference, but it should be very noticeable.

Also, make sure you try some different strings, too. They can have a very big impact on all this stuff, and tapered vs non-tapered matters as much as string brand, material, gauge, etc. It all matters a lot.

 

[soxhats]

I bought a V4 from funk7856, and it should arrive Saturday. A custom color very close to ocean turquoise. Rosewood board. Matching headstock. I'm practically counting the hours. I owned a P4 a few years ago, but sold it in a G.A.S. fit for something else and I wasn't sure the neck was for me. I'm expecting the V4 will be a major go-to bass for me. Looking forward to being back in the club!

 

[jake3]

What's your current Upton? Please describe the qualities.

I actually have two, because I play out of two locations about 100 miles apart and I don't want to haul them back and forth. Got them both in 2009. The first is a Standard ply that I got at a great price because it had a "cosmetic blemish" that no one notices and doesn't affect the sound. It's a great bass with a fat tone and it's been my road warrior. The other is a Standard hybrid that's a very nice bass - and the tone differences from the ply as are you say. But it's not as nice as a Brescian based on the video on the Upton website.

Recently I played a gig on the ply with no amp, even though the jazz guitarist (and a second one for a short set) were using an amp. People dug it but my right index finger was ready to fall off by the end of the night. So I'm looking for more volume and I've been talking to Upton about a fully-carved 7/8 - I think a Mittenwald though, as I dig the gamba corners more than the violin corners. But I've watched their video on the Brescian about five times and I gotta say the Brescian looks and sounds beautiful too. Hard to choose. Upton tells me the Brescian and Mittenwald are very similar as basses, different mainly visually.

BTW, don't mean to hijack the Lull content - I play a Lakland P5 35", a fretless Fender P from 1978, and a Fender AVRI '62 P, but I'm looking seriously at a Lull, probably a 35" PJ5 - just haven't seen the perfect one yet. I may custom order. Lulls look/sound great.

 

[funkythumb]

I actually have two, because I play out of two locations about 100 miles apart and I don't want to haul them back and forth. Got them both in 2009. The first is a Standard ply that I got at a great price because it had a "cosmetic blemish" that no one notices and doesn't affect the sound. It's a great bass with a fat tone and it's been my road warrior. The other is a Standard hybrid that's a very nice bass - and the tone differences from the ply as are you say. But it's not as nice as a Brescian based on the video on the Upton website.

Recently I played a gig on the ply with no amp, even though the jazz guitarist (and a second one for a short set) were using an amp. People dug it but my right index finger was ready to fall off by the end of the night. So I'm looking for more volume and I've been talking to Upton about a fully-carved 7/8 - I think a Mittenwald though, as I dig the gamba corners more than the violin corners. But I've watched their video on the Brescian about five times and I gotta say the Brescian looks and sounds beautiful too. Hard to choose. Upton tells me the Brescian and Mittenwald are very similar as basses, different mainly visually.

BTW, don't mean to hijack the Lull content - I play a Lakland P5 35", a fretless Fender P from 1978, and a Fender AVRI '62 P, but I'm looking seriously at a Lull, probably a 35" PJ5 - just haven't seen the perfect one yet. I may custom order. Lulls look/sound great.

I have a 35" Lull PJ5. Wonderful bass. It's get's more compliments than my MTD 535 or Sadowsky. Looks awesome! Don't hesitate. Nickel strings for sure and has a killer B. As far as Upton, sounds like we were in the same place. I traded them my Upton ply for the Brescian plus cash. They were very generous on the trade. I'd love a second. Don't know much about the Mittenwald. As far as volume, DO NOT count on the Brescian to give you enough to play without an amp. I've had the Brescian since May and have gigged with it every week. I've only been able to play ampless on half of one gig in a very special room. The arco is, of course, much louder. The bass is loud but not loud enough to go ampless. I'm very happy with it. I can definitely hear myself better with Brescian. The mids are more forceful and you can hear your intonation better. I would say to definitely go for it. The Brescian is worth every penny!
I

 

[funkythumb]

Well, I wouldn't expect a 9+ pound bass to be too far off the mark on compression vs punch, but that's so subjective it's hard to say... I will say this tho... if the E-G are all great and the B is ok, but just not quite good enough, then the bridge might be just enough of a change to "get you there". Don't expect a huge massive night/day difference, but it should be very noticeable.



Also, make sure you try some different strings, too. They can have a very big impact on all this stuff, and tapered vs non-tapered matters as much as string brand, material, gauge, etc. It all matters a lot.

I've been trying a lot of different strings in the last three weeks, tapered and non tapered. The results vary from brand to brand as to whether the non tapered are better or worse. I ordered a set of DR High Beams, which I'm excited about. Haven't used DR in years but always had good results with them. So far, lower tension, light gauge has felt the best on the Lull.
I

 

[AMJBASS]

I have a 35" Lull PJ5. Wonderful bass. It's get's more compliments than my MTD 535 or Sadowsky. Looks awesome! Don't hesitate. Nickel strings for sure and has a killer B. As far as Upton, sounds like we were in the same place. I traded them my Upton ply for the Brescian plus cash. They were very generous on the trade. I'd love a second. Don't know much about the Mittenwald. As far as volume, DO NOT count on the Brescian to give you enough to play without an amp. I've had the Brescian since May and have gigged with it every week. I've only been able to play ampless on half of one gig in a very special room. The arco is, of course, much louder. The bass is loud but not loud enough to go ampless. I'm very happy with it. I can definitely hear myself better with Brescian. The mids are more forceful and you can hear your intonation better. I would say to definitely go for it. The Brescian is worth every penny!
I

I haven't had the pleasure of playing an Upton Brescian, but I would caution against saying it definitely won't give you enough volume for ampless gigs without playing a few of them first. It always astounds me how double basses vary so much bass to bass. My little 5/8ths bass blows away my larger 3/4 bass in volume and both are the same model from Hofner and similar age too. Both set up the same. One thing is sure though, Upton seems to really have their stuff together on these basses. Build quality, set up, customer service.

Back to Lull... I'd love to grab a sub 8 lbs P4! I know of really no other builder making a high end Precision bass this light weight, and this high quality. I need to stay out of these threads

 

[Holdsg]

I bought a V4 from funk7856, and it should arrive Saturday. A custom color very close to ocean turquoise. Rosewood board. Matching headstock. I'm practically counting the hours. I owned a P4 a few years ago, but sold it in a G.A.S. fit for something else and I wasn't sure the neck was for me. I'm expecting the V4 will be a major go-to bass for me. Looking forward to being back in the club!

Nice score, I was eyeing that too, but I already have too many jazz-style basses as it is.

 

[Vic]

I've been trying a lot of different strings in the last three weeks, tapered and non tapered. The results vary from brand to brand as to whether the non tapered are better or worse. I ordered a set of DR High Beams, which I'm excited about. Haven't used DR in years but always had good results with them. So far, lower tension, light gauge has felt the best on the Lull.
I

Good strings. DRs have always done well for me. And if you decide the HiBeams are too slinky, try LoRiders. On the HiBeams, just make SURE to bend/crimp the string BEFORE cutting off the excess when stringing.

 

[soxhats]

Nice score, I was eyeing that too, but I already have too many jazz-style basses as it is.

Thanks! I'm psyched. I somehow knew when I sold my P4 (to you!) it was only a matter of time before I returned to the fold.

 

[bass12]

I've been trying a lot of different strings in the last three weeks, tapered and non tapered. The results vary from brand to brand as to whether the non tapered are better or worse. I ordered a set of DR High Beams, which I'm excited about. Haven't used DR in years but always had good results with them. So far, lower tension, light gauge has felt the best on the Lull.
I

I have basses on which Hi-Beams don't work so well but I love them on my Lull. They seem to suit my 35" M5V perfectly.

 

[Holdsg]

Thanks! I'm psyched. I somehow knew when I sold my P4 (to you!) it was only a matter of time before I returned to the fold.

Yeah, you know I still have that P4 and its a special bass. I have yet to find its equal for vintage tone (and I've tried).

 

[soxhats]

Yeah, you know I still have that P4 and its a special bass. I have yet to find its equal for vintage tone (and I've tried).

Awesome you still have it!

 

[Holdsg]

oops, just checked the record book, I don't have that one any more (it was a natural, right)? I stupidly sold that one, and later got the burst one I have now. Learnt my lesson good that day.
the one I have also has a jazz neck

 

[funkythumb]

I haven't had the pleasure of playing an Upton Brescian, but I would caution against saying it definitely won't give you enough volume for ampless gigs without playing a few of them first. It always astounds me how double basses vary so much bass to bass. My little 5/8ths bass blows away my larger 3/4 bass in volume and both are the same model from Hofner and similar age too. Both set up the same. One thing is sure though, Upton seems to really have their stuff together on these basses. Build quality, set up, customer service.

Back to Lull... I'd love to grab a sub 8 lbs P4! I know of really no other builder making a high end Precision bass this light weight, and this high quality. I need to stay out of these threads

I suppose you might be right on the volume thing. I've only played one Brescian. With different kinds of woods or simply a different piece of wood, another might be louder.

 

[funkythumb]

Good strings. DRs have always done well for me. And if you decide the HiBeams are too slinky, try LoRiders. On the HiBeams, just make SURE to bend/crimp the string BEFORE cutting off the excess when stringing.

I've heard that before. Thanks for the heads up. Is that just with DR's? I've never had to do that on the cutting end. I always bend the string near the bridge which greatly aids in set up and slap tone.

 

[taylor16]

No pics, no bass- right? She was delivered today. Fantastic neck. Plays like butter. Anyone know what strings Mike uses?

 

[Vic]

I've heard that before. Thanks for the heads up. Is that just with DR's? I've never had to do that on the cutting end. I always bend the string near the bridge which greatly aids in set up and slap tone.

It's only with round core strings, which DR is the only brand that makes those as far as I know. So it's not only specific to DR, but more accurately, specific to the "Beam" products... HiBeam (SS), SunBeam (Nickel). The LoRiders, etc, are standard hex core and I don't think you need to worry about it on those.

Depends on some things, but if you've cut Beams before without crimping first and not "sprung" them, you've been lucky.

What you're talking about is totally unrelated... you're talking about perfecting the break angle of the string as it passes over the saddle... that's also good to do, but not doing so won't hurt the string.

FYI.