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The Mike Lull Club Part 4

#401
Vic said:
It's only with round core strings, which DR is the only brand that makes those as far as I know. So it's not only specific to DR, but more accurately, specific to the "Beam" products... HiBeam (SS), SunBeam (Nickel). The LoRiders, etc, are standard hex core and I don't think you need to worry about it on those.

Depends on some things, but if you've cut Beams before without crimping first and not "sprung" them, you've been lucky.

What you're talking about is totally unrelated... you're talking about perfecting the break angle of the string as it passes over the saddle... that's also good to do, but not doing so won't hurt the string.

FYI.
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Yea, I know it's not related but wanted to throw it out there for clarity's sake.
 
#402
taylor16 said:
No pics, no bass- right? She was delivered today. Fantastic neck. Plays like butter. Anyone know what strings Mike uses?
netugygy.jpg
yre3egym.jpg
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Mike uses D'Addario strings. Mine came with Pro Steels. [This invalid link has been removed]
 
#403
Holdsg said:
oops, just checked the record book, I don't have that one any more (it was a natural, right)? I stupidly sold that one, and later got the burst one I have now. Learnt my lesson good that day.
the one I have also has a jazz neck
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That's what I thought. Yeah, it was natural with maple neck. Full-size neck that was just a little too board-like for me. YMMV.
 
#404
This is the second time in recent weeks I've heard this about the need to bend/crimp. I've gotten lucky twice, I guess. Have Sunbeams on two basses, didn't do the bend/crimp, and both are fine. (I think.)


Vic said:
It's only with round core strings, which DR is the only brand that makes those as far as I know. So it's not only specific to DR, but more accurately, specific to the "Beam" products... HiBeam (SS), SunBeam (Nickel). The LoRiders, etc, are standard hex core and I don't think you need to worry about it on those.

Depends on some things, but if you've cut Beams before without crimping first and not "sprung" them, you've been lucky.

What you're talking about is totally unrelated... you're talking about perfecting the break angle of the string as it passes over the saddle... that's also good to do, but not doing so won't hurt the string.

FYI.
Click to expand...
 
#405
soxhats said:
This is the second time in recent weeks I've heard this about the need to bend/crimp. I've gotten lucky twice, I guess. Have Sunbeams on two basses, didn't do the bend/crimp, and both are fine. (I think.)
Click to expand...
There is actually an existing crimp, as you might imagine (otherwise, they'd spring in shipment), so depending on bass design, and scale, you might not have to worry about it, but I always do it just to be safe (per the instructions sent with every set).

I'd rather be safe than surprised in a set. :)
 
#407
LeonD said:
The TI Jazz strings (both flat and round wound) also have round cores. Which makes sense seeing how flexible they are similar to the DR 'Beams.

TI also recommends crimping before cutting so the windings don't come undone.
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DOH! That's right... I totally forgot about those and I've used them before too.
 
#409
I think the fear is that the string will unravel if you cut before you crimp... I've never had that happen, but I also always put a bend in my strings and stick that short bent part down into the center of the tuning machine.

FWIW - I usually cut then immediately bend...
 
#410
RocketMusic said:
I think the fear is that the string will unravel if you cut before you crimp... I've never had that happen, but I also always put a bend in my strings and stick that short bent part down into the center of the tuning machine.

FWIW - I usually cut then immediately bend...
Click to expand...

Hey Greg. As a long time Hi Beam user, this is a unique issue with the Hi Beams and Sun Beams due to their unusual round core design. I guess the windings don't adhere quite as well to a round core versus the traditional hex core (which I think is part of their unique 'low tension feel' also).

Due to the round core, they recommend that you just bend the string above the cut point to reduce the chance that the windings separate from the core. This only happened to me once... on my first set of Hi Beams, when I didn't read the directions that come in every pack:) A decade and how many dozens of sets later, zero issue.
 
#416
Vic said:
It's only with round core strings, which DR is the only brand that makes those as far as I know. So it's not only specific to DR, but more accurately, specific to the "Beam" products... HiBeam (SS), SunBeam (Nickel). The LoRiders, etc, are standard hex core and I don't think you need to worry about it on those.
.
Click to expand...

Status Hot Wire strings are also available with round cores. I'm not sure who makes their strings for them but I doubt it's DR.
 
#420
The Lull website states that the M4V is his best seller. Is that the opinion that most of you share? Seems like there is an awful lot of 5-string basses around (except for the last few pics in this thread).

Off topic- Been playing my new M4V like crazy since I got it yesterday and the tone is just perfect. Between my ash/maple M4V, Sadowsky Metro RV5 and Lakland DJ5 with rosewood board, I think I have all my basses (no pun intended) covered. Gonna be hard to justify another buy when "the gas" hits.
 

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