@Razman how is the F# setup working out? Is it truly a novelty like everyone always says, or are you getting use out of that setup? I'm asking because I too am interested in that tuning, but hesitate because of the modifications required to make it work.
Hey Jack, I'd be glad to detail my thoughts on it. TL,DR version: I don't think I'll ever go back (famous last words??) For my contexts it's more useful; however, if you are a very melodic player and like venturing into guitar territory, having that high F is really useful for sevenths and chords and all that stuff. I need to stay out of that area, so the low F# works better for me. And it's a great thumb rest too!
I haven't had the opportunity to use it in my metal band much yet (COVID) but since my church is still operating (albiet at a reduced schedule) I really enjoy using it in that context. Having a low B higher up on the fretboard is handy, in the same way one would play an E on the B string. Every so often we'll end a song on A or G, and I can reach down and play the lower octave to add body and feeling to the end of a song. Or play it during the song and see my drummer smile (he has in-ears and can hear me very well). It's very usable.
When it was strung with a low B, it was a bit of a stretch to use it a lot (see what I did there?) and I would get fatigued occasionally. Having the strings shift towards the other side of the neck makes it feel more like a six string bass, and I just need to reach occasionally if I want to. I like that part a lot - but my brain is still making a metal shift, similar to when I jumped from a four to a five, but this time it's not as difficult. It's just that it doesn't feel natural to me yet, so I'm trying to play it a lot. When I do pick my six string back up and noodle on it the neck feels much narrower.
Overall I'm very pleased and the Kalium strings feel great. Skip told me that the .200 F# set is probably the best compromise between tension and harmonics; we had a long conversation about string size, mass, scale length, etc. and his main point is that you can't fool physics. Increasing the size of the string reduces harmonic content; extending scale length helps with this as you can use a thinner string while keeping the tension up (hence the 39" scale of his Knuckle basses). If money ever becomes a non-issue, I'd be willing to look into a multi-scale 7 to leverage those advantages, but it would have to be a custom build from someone.
That big of a string makes it look like a cable off a suspension bridge but it's actually pretty flexible and feels good. The HF driver in the combo I play through is out so I don't hear much definition on stage, but it sounds pretty good through other amps I've used. Most of the tone from that string is from the harmonic content anyway, so being able to reproduce the fundamental isn't necessarily that helpful.
The only other adjustment I've made is that I need to mute it while playing a lot of the time so I don't get extra rumble through our system; it can do that if you aren't paying attention. It's not hard to do and becomes natural over time, as I was doing a lot of that on the sixer.
Some time ago I had reached out to Conklin and they sell nut blanks on their site, so you can keep yours original or, if after the modification, you can go back if you want. I purchased a needle file set from Lowe's and did it when I changed my strings, it wasn't that hard. Initially I had a little hesitation but it was worth it and a lot of fun. I just kept missing that low A or G - having it is nice, and if I need to play in higher registers I can just travel up the neck a little.
So there you have it, let me know if you have any other questions.
Eric