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The official "Show your basses" thread part 19!

Gigging with the self-built Franken-P.
(Harley Benton body, Chinese J-neck, EMG Geezer pickup, aluminium pickguard).

This one has a huge output for a passive instrument, I like it.

I did something similar. Harley Benton PB – 20 body, Used (2011) eBay affinity Squier P neck and geezer pick up and electronics. The HB was exceptionally lightweight so I wanted to keep it light with a different neck. It is still light.

I keep it in my home office for practice
 

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Ahh!
You noticed,
That’s the 2 pickups ( fralin 60s wind) wired series with just volume and tone

Punchy beast

I have a traditional jazz but this one is just simple and fun
I just did a series mod to my Squier J this morning. Question: did you wire it so the jumper wire from the volume to the tone pot is attached to lug #1 with the pickup hot wire or by itself on lug #2? I was shocked what difference that made for the functionality of the tone control.
 
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Found a Spector Performer 4 last week. Brand new, last one in stock, with a nice €60 discount as well
Heard a lot of mixed stories about these basses, but I do like it, no active electronics, so, very simple.
Thought it'd sound a lot like my old Ibanez GSR200 or EXB404, due to the reversed P and the J pickup, but it has a character all of its own.
Bright and articulate.

Planning to mod a bit on it, perhaps swap the strings for flats, or, even a drop A tuning.
 

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It's not a bad question really, there are different ways wood gets cut. Quartersawn for instance, is very stable. On laminated necks you can have grain set in opposing directions for stability.
But inexpensive instruments may not go there... Still, my Chickenbacker is nice and stable, a pretty good bass with no developing issues.
@miza post when it shows up!
 
It's not a bad question really, there are different ways wood gets cut. Quartersawn for instance, is very stable. On laminated necks you can have grain set in opposing directions for stability.
But inexpensive instruments may not go there... Still, my Chickenbacker is nice and stable, a pretty good bass with no developing issues.
@miza post when it shows up!
There are lots of threads about Qsawn vs. Flatsawn necks and what I got out of them was that while Qsawn is great and *usually* very stable... *IF* it twists/warps, it is not as recoverable as flatsawn. The reason being is that flatsawn, while also stable, will not twist on the off chance that it changes. Any warping will be more of a cupping or bowing nature and therefore can usually be controlled by truss adjustments where Qsawn shifts would not.

Again, I'm not saying either *will* warp, just that *if* the do, this is the result,


TL;DR - Assuming the wood in either case is correctly prepped/treated;
- Quartersawn is pretty, stable and more expensive,
- Flatsawn can be just as viable and more fault tolerant in the *REMOTE* chance that the neck shifts.

This is me gleaning info from the TB luthiers, so please tell me if I'm off.
 
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There are lots of threads about Qsawn vs. Flatsawn necks and what I got out of them was that while Qsawn is great and *usually* very stable... *IF* it twists/warps, it is not as recoverable as flatsawn. The reason being is that flatsawn, while also stable, will not twist on the off chance that it changes. Any warping will be more of a cupping or bowing nature and therefore can usually be controlled by truss adjustments.

TL;DR - Assuming the wood in either case is correctly prepped/treated;
- Quartersawn is pretty, stable and more expensive,
- Flatsawn can be just as viable and more fault tolerant in the *REMOTE* chance that the neck shifts.

This is me gleaning info from the TB luthiers, so please tell me if I'm off.
No argument, and that makes sense. Anything about stability is with the premise that the wood used has been dried properly, and is of a character that doesn't generally tend to twist... Something like Sapele, for example, has a grain that's all over the place- not your first choice for making window sash for example. Or guitar necks!
But I don't have any corrections for you! And I'm a carpenter, not so much a cabinet maker or shop guy, so my experience isn't as deep as some here. But I'm not new to the subject, and do rely on my general understanding of it.
 
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The only necks I have ever had a warping, twisting or bowing issue with have been old/vintage necks. And not Fenders, Gibsons etc. Some were minor/fixable, some FIDO. The neck is always the top consideration before acquiring. (project basses) If it's inexpensive enough and I know I can address it - I'll take a chance. My batting record is pretty good regarding such and I've learned a lot in the process.
 

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