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The official "Show your basses" thread part 19!

Nice! Can you tell us a little about that T-Bird?

I built it from a cheap kit last year. Its body is made of basswood which I only realized after isn't probably the best for a stain but I'm not too worried about how it turned out. I always wanted a green bass. Its my Trailer Park Boys special with Bubbles Green Bastard decal on the pickguard where the TB logo would normally be. The headstock just says Green Bastard and then on the back of the HS says Made in Parts Unknown (reference to the show).

For a kit bass with all cheap stock parts, it actually plays pretty good. I used tru-oil and gun stock wax on the neck so it feels pretty similar to my Stingray.
 
I built it from a cheap kit last year. Its body is made of basswood which I only realized after isn't probably the best for a stain but I'm not too worried about how it turned out. I always wanted a green bass. Its my Trailer Park Boys special with Bubbles Green Bastard decal on the pickguard where the TB logo would normally be. The headstock just says Green Bastard and then on the back of the HS says Made in Parts Unknown (reference to the show).

For a kit bass with all cheap stock parts, it actually plays pretty good. I used tru-oil and gun stock wax on the neck so it feels pretty similar to my Stingray.

Which kit?

I've just gotten into an automatic mode of refinishing the neck of any newly acquired instrument with Tru Oil... Love the stuff...
 
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... body is made of basswood which I only realized after isn't probably the best for a stain but I'm not too worried about how it turned out.

Looks pretty good to me... I believe basswood is a closed grain wood... open grain more receptive to stains. I put a Stingray Classic 5 kit together, with a basswood body, choosing a Copper Tone Metallic from ReRanch for my finish...
 
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Looks pretty good to me... I believe basswood is a closed grain wood... open grain more receptive to stains. I put a Stingray Classic 5 kit together, with a basswood body, choosing a Copper Tone Metallic from ReRanch for my finish...

Yeah, it turned out pretty decent, just not a super consistent stain throughout. Probably partly because of the greenish hue that was present on parts of the body which is also common with basswood.
 
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What did you upgrade and how much difference did it make for you?
its the one in my profile pic...

Nordy Big Single and Big BladeMan
On the BladeMan I wire it with a Seymour Duncan TripleShot circuit cut out of a guitar humbucker frame so I can kill either coil or run series or parallel without too much extra routing as the mini switches sit right next to the PuP. Honestly not sure its worth it as the circuit is SUPER delicate to handle! It's fine once it's screwed in but you have to be REALLY careful with it until then...

I put in a Noll 4XM stacked 4 band EQ so its all the controls in 3 knobs.

I never tried the original stuff so I can't compare...

I painted it using a hybrid technique akin to acrylic pouring, but with enamels so I had to phase in colors or they would just blur together... Took like 5 months to cure...
 
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its the one in my profile pic...

Nordy Big Single and Big BladeMan
On the BladeMan I wire it with a Seymour Duncan TripleShot circuit cut out of a guitar humbucker frame so I can kill either coil or run series or parallel without too much extra routing as the mini switches sit right next to the PuP. Honestly not sure its worth it as the circuit is SUPER delicate to handle! It's fine once it's screwed in but you have to be REALLY careful with it until then...

I put in a Noll 4XM stacked 4 band EQ so its all the controls in 3 knobs.

I never tried the original stuff so I can't compare...

I painted it using a hybrid technique akin to acrylic pouring, but with enamels so I had to phase in colors or they would just blur together... Took like 5 months to cure...

Wow, very cool! I bet it is pretty versatile then. Any particular style of bass you would compare its sound to?

Great job on the paint, looks like it would be challenging to do. Not sure I could wait 5 months for any bass though. I'd just want it be finished so I can play it.
 
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its the one in my profile pic...

Nordy Big Single and Big BladeMan
On the BladeMan I wire it with a Seymour Duncan TripleShot circuit cut out of a guitar humbucker frame so I can kill either coil or run series or parallel without too much extra routing as the mini switches sit right next to the PuP. Honestly not sure its worth it as the circuit is SUPER delicate to handle! It's fine once it's screwed in but you have to be REALLY careful with it until then...

I put in a Noll 4XM stacked 4 band EQ so its all the controls in 3 knobs.

I never tried the original stuff so I can't compare...

I painted it using a hybrid technique akin to acrylic pouring, but with enamels so I had to phase in colors or they would just blur together... Took like 5 months to cure...

Could you be so kind and post a better photo of the body ? Your profile photo is just a tease. :hyper:
Thanks
Eddie
 
I can when I get home... I was waiting to finish building my "Peacemaker" frankenbass before posting a group shot...

Its tough to say what the "sound" is like. I might have muffed up the wiring... i suck at soldering (first time) so the signal was super distorted at low volumes. I thought it was my house's wiring but my new stock Squier VM Jag sounds fine so I am wondering...
 
Here he is with his "little brother" which I did with the slightly more traditional dipped swirl...

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Hi
What's the Gretsch like ?
I've heard the neck described as a marriage between a Fender and a Hofner, very long but thin. Overall this Japanese made Gretsch 6072 reissue is a great bass of very nice quality. The somewhat thinner hollow body virtually eliminates feedback, the pickups record well (recently used on a track from a newly released CD), and has all the Gretsch design accoutrements that you'd expect from the brand. Then there's all the positive comments I hear whenever I have it at a gig. Everybody loves it.
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