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The Official Warwick Club Thread (Part 2)

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Welcome aboard!

As to which you should get, base it on sound. I'm sure some TBers here have those basses, and would be delighted to post clips. Whichever one sounds the best, get!

Everyone else... SOUND CLIPS!
 
I find the 3 band gives you more possibilities to shape your sound right from the source. Since you're generally leaving the EQ on the bass flat, it's not such a concern really. Which brings up this question: what are you looking for out of a new preamp (or, what don't you like about the MEC preamp right now)?

I want to upgrade the tone of the bass, I don't really have much problem with the MEC preamp as such. A lot of people recommend the Aguilar pre as a noticeable upgrade to the quality of the sound, and that is what I am after.. not necessarily more knobs and switches :p
 
I want to upgrade the tone of the bass, I don't really have much problem with the MEC preamp as such. A lot of people recommend the Aguilar pre as a noticeable upgrade to the quality of the sound, and that is what I am after.. not necessarily more knobs and switches :p

Is the Aguilar pre voiced 'flat' with all the knobs centred, or does it have some kind of EQ pre-shape?

If it's flat, as I suspect the MEC is supposed to be, then it shouldn't make any difference at all when you install the aggie.

If you "want to upgrade the tone of the bass" can I (very respectfully!) suggest that you work out what it is that you want to change?

ie Do you want to change dynamics? (make it either more compressed or more dynamic)
Do you a more old school tone (maybe use passive pickups and a passive blend then a preamp)?
Do you want it fuller / rounder? (use the EQ you already have)
Do you want a more useable/powerful EQ in the bass? (Get a 3 band pre, or maybe a filter pre, but I suspect this is not your goal)

I'd be very interested to hear what you decide you want! Equally interested to see if you can get it by using a good outboard equaliser.
 
5 minutes to half an hour. Not that I polish it very often (maybe 2-3 times a year). Unlike an oil, I don't think that it soaks in much more the longer you leave it.

I use a furniture oil on the fingerboard from time to time, too: For all my basses and guitars, not just the Warwick.
 
I need help! I've found Thumb 4 BO bass, 8-9 tears old, for a reasonable price so I want to buy it!

On one of the threads I’ve found that Warwick basses need be waxed with wood conditioner and I don’t know if the present owner was doing that trough the years!

My question is, if he didn’t do that, what are the consequences?

I need the answer as soon as possible!

Thanks!
 
I need help! I've found Thumb 4 BO bass, 8-9 tears old, for a reasonable price so I want to buy it!

On one of the threads I’ve found that Warwick basses need be waxed with wood conditioner and I don’t know if the present owner was doing that trough the years!

My question is, if he didn’t do that, what are the consequences?

I need the answer as soon as possible!

Thanks!


Dryed wood, depending on the extent of this it can be fixed by aplying some coats of the warwick wax.

If the wood looks "dirty" a fine sanding may come handy then re waxing.

Those are the 2 procedures ive heard warwick players do when they come to this kind of situation.
 
Dryed wood, depending on the extent of this it can be fixed by aplying some coats of the warwick wax.

If the wood looks "dirty" a fine sanding may come handy then re waxing.

Those are the 2 procedures ive heard warwick players do when they come to this kind of situation.

they (warwick) say to use the green scotch brite pads for a light sand/ refinishing... instead of sandpaper and 0000steel wool which will get all in the pickups and is more messy...and then yes wax her up and she will be lookin pretty...i refinish furniture as well and we use the green pads .... and you can use the superfine white pads to polish the frets i had mine blinding people.......hope this helps
 
they (warwick) say to use the green scotch brite pads for a light sand/ refinishing... instead of sandpaper and 0000steel wool which will get all in the pickups and is more messy...and then yes wax her up and she will be lookin pretty...i refinish furniture as well and we use the green pads .... and you can use the superfine white pads to polish the frets i had mine blinding people.......hope this helps

I use the green Scotch Brite pads on my Warwick fretless fingerboards to remove the lines where the strings dig in. Then I follow with lemon oil.

For waxing, if you can't find Warwick Beeswax, then pick up Howard's Feed-N-Wax from a local Ace Hardware or similar store. It has lemon and orange oils plus beeswax, so it feeds and protects the wood. I rub it in with my fingertips, let soak in for 20 mins. then wipe/buff with a clean rag. The bubinga pomelle on my Thumb NT absolutely GLOWS in 3D and looks like velvet! Howards brings out the richest finish I've seen without adding a varnish to it.
 
I use the green Scotch Brite pads on my Warwick fretless fingerboards to remove the lines where the strings dig in. Then I follow with lemon oil.

For waxing, if you can't find Warwick Beeswax, then pick up Howard's Feed-N-Wax from a local Ace Hardware or similar store. It has lemon and orange oils plus beeswax, so it feeds and protects the wood. I rub it in with my fingertips, let soak in for 20 mins. then wipe/buff with a clean rag. The bubinga pomelle on my Thumb NT absolutely GLOWS in 3D and looks like velvet! Howards brings out the richest finish I've seen without adding a varnish to it.

yes ive used butchers wax also but its a beotch to buff off if you wait too long lol...but man i love me some scotchbrite........:D
 
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