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The Passinwind Open Source Preamp
- Thread starter Passinwind
- Start date
Yes, I hand soldered that 100-pin quad pack. It's not too difficult once it's all lined up, I use the wider chisel tip and drag it across the pins which solders several at once and gives it a nice uniform fillet (solder joint).
Agree, I find the bigger packages far easier to solder than the little resistors and capacitors.
The problem I have isn't getting the solder on the part, it's holding the small resistors and capacitors straight and centered on the pads. How do you manage that so well? Yours look perfect!
Beautiful work!
I just tried my PW blue pre with a small Peavey practice amp (Max 100 with a 10" speaker).
I've been very sick for the last 3 weeks and this was my first time back with a bass. Low volume at home.
Amazingly, the preamp offered a major tonal improvement! I lowered the bass on the amp and added it back with the pre and things became much more musical. The mid control was not needed but the resonance controls did some magic too.
Charlie's work never ceases to amaze me.
I just tried my PW blue pre with a small Peavey practice amp (Max 100 with a 10" speaker).
I've been very sick for the last 3 weeks and this was my first time back with a bass. Low volume at home.
Amazingly, the preamp offered a major tonal improvement! I lowered the bass on the amp and added it back with the pre and things became much more musical. The mid control was not needed but the resonance controls did some magic too.
Charlie's work never ceases to amaze me.
Small tweezers, wooden alignment stick, and practice. Liquid flux also helps keep the part from moving around as it gets tacky.
Make sure you don't put downward pressure on gull-wing-leaded devices when you're holding it in place.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,908
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Update:
I managed to get in on a group buy for custom color shifting 125B enclosures, but the vendor ended up liking the idea enough to just buy 80 units and make it a regular item on his website, including several other box sizes. He is in the US and can drop ship straight to Amplifyfun, and I will take a look at a few graphics options. ETA is ~3 weeks for the powder coating, using this powder formulation: Invalid Link Removed
Meanwhile, the Github repository is coming along, albeit a bit slowly: GitHub - Passinwind/PW3B-LPF: Open Source Filter Preamps for Bass, Guitar, Mandolin, and other musical instruments
I managed to get in on a group buy for custom color shifting 125B enclosures, but the vendor ended up liking the idea enough to just buy 80 units and make it a regular item on his website, including several other box sizes. He is in the US and can drop ship straight to Amplifyfun, and I will take a look at a few graphics options. ETA is ~3 weeks for the powder coating, using this powder formulation: Invalid Link Removed
Meanwhile, the Github repository is coming along, albeit a bit slowly: GitHub - Passinwind/PW3B-LPF: Open Source Filter Preamps for Bass, Guitar, Mandolin, and other musical instruments
- Feb 16, 2007
- 409
- 510
- Disclosures
- Owner, Underhill Bass Guitars
Pedals in a differential casing? Radical!
Well yes, the Dana 30 under my Jeep does need a variable mid...
The color looks great!
Dana 30 under my Jeep does need a variable mid...
Fancy, my 4x4 only has High and Low, no Mid
I gave the PW3B-LPFv2 Mk2 a quick test today with one of my daughters old Bass Guitars I have in storage for her, everything seemed fine apart from a bit of noise when I had Frequency and Resonance both turned right down.
I made a really bad job with the soldering and I don't know if the OPA2134 are real or not.
I took way longer then I wanted building this one, I was a bit under the weather for a few weeks and then the meds I am on messed with my vision. All I can do is apologize for making everyone wait so long.
I thought I had stuffed it up as nothing seemed to happen when I first put a battery in it, turns out it was just the LED wired back to front.
I will try with some different Op-Amps tomorrow, and maybe even clean up the solder links and blobs I left everywhere.
I have another PCB ready to start soldering as soon as I think I can do a better job with the soldering iron, it can be hard when your pupils shrink to pinpricks from the medicine.
I will get everything to Charlie so he can start putting it up on the new Github page.
I can't wait for people to start leaving different graphics for Tayda to print the 125B boxes for us, hopefully it's possible for others to leave their graphic files for anyone to use.
I make thin (1mm) PCB's for my facias because I don't know how to make the vector drawings for getting the boxes printed by Tayda, but I would prefer to get them printed if I could.
I made a really bad job with the soldering and I don't know if the OPA2134 are real or not.
I took way longer then I wanted building this one, I was a bit under the weather for a few weeks and then the meds I am on messed with my vision. All I can do is apologize for making everyone wait so long.
I thought I had stuffed it up as nothing seemed to happen when I first put a battery in it, turns out it was just the LED wired back to front.
I will try with some different Op-Amps tomorrow, and maybe even clean up the solder links and blobs I left everywhere.
I have another PCB ready to start soldering as soon as I think I can do a better job with the soldering iron, it can be hard when your pupils shrink to pinpricks from the medicine.
I will get everything to Charlie so he can start putting it up on the new Github page.
I can't wait for people to start leaving different graphics for Tayda to print the 125B boxes for us, hopefully it's possible for others to leave their graphic files for anyone to use.
I make thin (1mm) PCB's for my facias because I don't know how to make the vector drawings for getting the boxes printed by Tayda, but I would prefer to get them printed if I could.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,908
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I think I can put up PDF files on Github that will work for UV printing at both Tayda and Amplifyfun. I am also looking forward to seeing some other takes on this. For my part, I'll do a Tayda order as soon as I can, but I have a whole lot going on right now myself as well. Take care Michael !
Here's something I'm working on for the color shifting enclosure, maybe Tayda will reconsider on offering something similar as well:
"I thought I had stuffed it up"
Ah, the Brit-heritage use of stuffed... stuffed stuffing the board, did ya?.
Tassieviking, there is a time and tide to the affairs of men. Speaking as one of the folks that is very interested in the through hole, don't ever feel bad about your efforts on pedals. Enjoy.
Thanks for the update, looks real nice. Solder links and worsening vision are why I'm reluctant to tool up for SMD.
Ah, the Brit-heritage use of stuffed... stuffed stuffing the board, did ya?.
Tassieviking, there is a time and tide to the affairs of men. Speaking as one of the folks that is very interested in the through hole, don't ever feel bad about your efforts on pedals. Enjoy.
Thanks for the update, looks real nice. Solder links and worsening vision are why I'm reluctant to tool up for SMD.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,908
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Another couple of stabs at 125B graphics, using a couple of the ideas some people posted here:
..........
Really like the longer tic marks for indicating nuetral-ish positions. Regarding the size of the ticks and their location, what diameter knob is max for showing the tics properly? Could scaling them up a hair and moving their locations to a little larger radius allow 3/4" knobs as well as 1/2" dia. or whatever, knobs?
I like the thicker lines on the "Passinwind" and "PW3B-LPF" script, could even be a wee bit thicker, to my eye. I like the PW on top, the model on bottom.
The gas graphic, myself, you've taken the delicate eco sensitive reference to living in the high wind Columbia River Gorge, and turned it into something, I don't know, almost vulgar! Actually, I'm already self conscious enough about sounding like asse, I'd hate to give some rando guitar player material for why.
I like the thicker lines on the "Passinwind" and "PW3B-LPF" script, could even be a wee bit thicker, to my eye. I like the PW on top, the model on bottom.
The gas graphic, myself, you've taken the delicate eco sensitive reference to living in the high wind Columbia River Gorge, and turned it into something, I don't know, almost vulgar! Actually, I'm already self conscious enough about sounding like asse, I'd hate to give some rando guitar player material for why.
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- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,908
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
The mockup shows 15mm knobs. I made it so the common 16mm size looks good too, any larger may be problematic due to the constraints of Tayda's pre-drilled box format. I'll try to make it at least workable with 19mm Davies 1510 knobs, the tick marks willl likely be a bit less prominent and a fatter PW label may or may not fly. Thanks for the valuable feedback, as always. I can do versions for a few different knob sets, it's easy work at this point.
And the other graphic is not likely to be any sort of official release, but, ahem, someone may just have to do at least one that way!
Just got in @Tassieviking's final schematic and layout, the very minor changes I'd already contemplated look like they're fully compatible. I will probably order sets of both Tassie's and my 125B version in the next day or two so I can do a proper head to head test, but I think we'll be ready to go with v2.0 in the next day or three.
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I didn't notice the longer tick marks on the dials, I love it.
One thing I did not like with the pre-drilled 125B build is how close the pots were to each other, but I used the Dust Seal Covers for pots that Tayda sells and I got it all in.
Invalid Link Removed
For the dual gang pots you will have to cut the covers so the opening for the leads is deeper and really press them on, I will get a picture when I do the next one this week.
If you don't use the covers then I would put electrical tape on the dual pots where they are closest to the single gang pots, and between the pots and the PCB.
Those covers from Tayda are really good and they fit the Alpha 16mm single gang pots super snug, they are not made for the dual gang pots but I made them fit.
They make sure the pots don't short out the tracks on the PCB.
One thing I did not like with the pre-drilled 125B build is how close the pots were to each other, but I used the Dust Seal Covers for pots that Tayda sells and I got it all in.
Invalid Link Removed
For the dual gang pots you will have to cut the covers so the opening for the leads is deeper and really press them on, I will get a picture when I do the next one this week.
If you don't use the covers then I would put electrical tape on the dual pots where they are closest to the single gang pots, and between the pots and the PCB.
Those covers from Tayda are really good and they fit the Alpha 16mm single gang pots super snug, they are not made for the dual gang pots but I made them fit.
They make sure the pots don't short out the tracks on the PCB.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,045
- 45,908
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I've done that hack with the dust covers myself, it worked fine.
I'd like to ask you what the biggest size knobs are that you think will be reasonable for this build. It looks like you used 16mm, correct? To me it looks like 12.5 and 15 mm would be the best choices, and both are readily available, at least here in the US. I tried tweaking the index marks a little bigger that what I showed in post #1195, here's what that would look like with 18mm, 16mm, 15mm, and 12.5mm knobs:
I think 18mm would actually still work OK in pinch, since we will be able to see under the knob a bit as it won't be flush to the case. Using the pre-drilled Tayda case format gives me almost zero wiggle room on moving pot locations or control graphics, really.
For my part, I'll probably wait on the new Stompbox Parts boxes to come in to do any test builds for this 125B format, as Tayda nearly tripling the minimum shipping cost makes them a far less attractive option to me.
The black knobs you see on my gold (post 1192) box are about 14.6D x 16.7H (Tayda A-6491) .
The white knobs in post 1163 are KN1611 style but have a set screw, 16.5D x 14.5H (Tayda A2818)
If I was good enough to play on a dark stage then I would have to go for something like a Davis 1510 clone 19.2D x 14.5H (Tayda A-6792), this size covers some of the text on my fascia and half the dots as well.
Davies 1400 style could be used but it also covers some of the text and dots on the fascia.
Marshall knobs are ok as well but covers the graphics slightly.
I think 16mm diameter is a good fit, but if the fascia graphics are made for bigger knobs then up to 20mm.
For the best look I like the black ones you have used before, that's why I bought the black ones that are similar.
Best for dark rooms I think the Davies 1510 type, or KN1611 style knobs if you can find them with T18 shaft.
The white knobs in post 1163 are KN1611 style but have a set screw, 16.5D x 14.5H (Tayda A2818)
If I was good enough to play on a dark stage then I would have to go for something like a Davis 1510 clone 19.2D x 14.5H (Tayda A-6792), this size covers some of the text on my fascia and half the dots as well.
Davies 1400 style could be used but it also covers some of the text and dots on the fascia.
Marshall knobs are ok as well but covers the graphics slightly.
I think 16mm diameter is a good fit, but if the fascia graphics are made for bigger knobs then up to 20mm.
For the best look I like the black ones you have used before, that's why I bought the black ones that are similar.
Best for dark rooms I think the Davies 1510 type, or KN1611 style knobs if you can find them with T18 shaft.
