Here is a good survey of flats: The best flatwound bass strings 2021: how to choose the right flatwounds for you
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I’ve got all of Ed’s reviewed sets currently on basses, except the Rotosounds and Pyramids. I’m a fan of all of them when put on the correct bass. Something I’ve learned and heard other online bass influencers say— lively aggressive basses needs bright “new breed” flats, and warm basses (like P basses) need “old school” flats. I made the mistake of putting DR Legends on my Classic series Stingray... not good! I have EBMM Cobalt flats coming for my ‘Ray, and already have them on my active J bass. And, as of a few hours ago, the MVP is wearing a set. I’ll report on how I feel after I get a chance to play it in a rehearsal or gig.Here is a good survey of flats: The best flatwound bass strings 2021: how to choose the right flatwounds for you
Hey Wayne - I’m beginning to feel neglected. Posted my Rapture back at #4906 on previous page, with request for membership in this most prestigious of TB clubs. Please, your kind consideration to give me a coveted number. Eternally grateful.
My MVP arrived Wednesday! ... It’s an ‘84 and the frets show that it’s been enjoyed quite a bit HAHA. I’ll be doing a level, crown , and polish eventually, but not today.
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I haven’t even looked into the SN to confirm it’s birth year, just going on the previous owner’s info.What I find interesting here is that I have an '83 EMS and '86 MVP and Buzz basses, and they all have the same electronics that he started using in the late 70's - 4 knobs, pickup selector, pre-amp on/off and an LED to show when the preamp is on. I need to dig up my catalog from those days but I remember your configuration coming out in '88 or '89. He may have offered options, and obviously the serial number will say for sure, but I can't remember ever seeing an '84 with those electronics. Still a beauty, and if I can get on whatever list you keep for takers if you sell, I'd appreciate it. LOL
You’re correct, previous owner was off by 4 years. I found a serial number chart and my MVP was one of the last ones made in ‘88, my senior year of high school, also the year I started playing bass.I remember your configuration coming out in '88 or '89.
That bass is beautiful!!Thought so. Popping in here inspired me to break this one out and get it restrung. It's an '84 EMS that I just can't get the action low enough on the low side. I have a luthier friend that I was going to send it to but now I'm convinced it's a badly cut nut as it's got more than a little room between the string and first fret. Regardless, it was a bass like this one that I first saw in the 8th Street Music window in Philly and knew I had to have one. I ordered my Buzz from there 2 years later after my Godfather passed and left me some money. View attachment 4405351 View attachment 4405352
That bass is beautiful!!
I wish you were nearby! I have nut slot files and make new nuts, do fretwork (even refrets) for myself and friends. I lowered all the MVP’s nut slots after recrowning it’s frets. I like the nut slots to be even with the fret height, like a zero fret. Some builders and players like extra height built in at the nut. But, like MTD basses, I want that zero fret feel.
Just be patient on the nut slots! Once you’ve gone too deep, it’s a pain to fix them. But, there’s ways of course. I typically keep the bass plugged into a tuner, pop a string out of the slot, file a little, put string back, check tuning, check string height off first fret compared to height at 2nd while holding it down at the first, and repeat process until the nut slot is deep enough for my playing tastes and attack strength. If you hit the strings hard, you’ll get buzz on your open strings before you get down to that zero fret height.Thanks. I gave my nephew his first bass, which I'd pieced together from bought parts, and he got the bug during Covid lockdown and started doing the same, and he's getting pretty adept at setups and whatnot, so I'll likely bring it down his way next chance I get. I've got files, but I like projects like this.
What kind of truss rod was Mike using in 1988? Dual action or no?
There is a Buzz available locally I'm probably not going to buy but I looked it over. It had a bullet shaped nib, not the autoharp key of later models. It had been refinished but I couldn't tell if the truss rod had been replaced.
Thanks
Good, thanks. They guy thought it was original, but couldn't tell. I haven't seen one from that era before.There's definitely dual action in my '86's (I have a catalog that speaks to it).
Good, thanks. They guy thought it was original, but couldn't tell. I haven't seen one from that era before.
The volume and pan pots were reversed, volume on the bottom. I think the wiring had been tampered with. I know some guys don't like the volume knob so close to their right hand.
Yeah, it would be easy to do. Sure threw me off for a minute thoughFrom everything I've read over time the pan pot has always been between the volume and tone. May not have been "tampered" with as much as just reversed provided there was enough give in the wiring, though the control cavities are pretty tight and I don't remember a lot of floppy wires laying around.
Just beating a dead horse here, but thinking about why those controls are reversed, I suspect that after taking them out for the refinish, they were reinstalled incorrectly. I did not see inside the cavity so I don't know if the wires were twisted into position or resoldered. It's not a big deal in any case and easily fixed if it was important.
What made me suspicious at the time was the way the volume rolled up quickly on the last quarter turn, having little impact on the most of the rotation. I understand analog pots, but any of the higher quality basses I've played raise the volume more evenly through the rotation. This one didn't.