• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Rickenbacker Club Part Eight

Status
Not open for further replies.
#241
PaulBoyer said:
Wonder how it would look on my "naked tuxedo"?

Nakedtuxweb.jpg
Click to expand...

Jeez...I wouldnt change a thing on that bass. ...and this is from someone who mods every Ric he's ever owned. :-)
THAT is my new current dream Ric.
 
#243
woodyng said:
Love this,especially the trc. I could see that working nicely on my maple/walnut Cii. I bet it would also look really cool on one of the original walnut Cheyenne's with the maple fretboards.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah the Walnut Cheyenne would look good with the walnut pickguard. Id like to get a bubinga pickguard and see what that looks like on my mapleglo.

Sadly, I dont have access anymore to the equipment that made these but I do have my CAD files (somewhere) that they were made from. :-) With laser etching, cutting, etc. being fairly prominent I'll bet someone could make some really nice ones these days.
*For personal use of course. Mainly my personal use. :-)
 
#244
PaulBoyer said:
This is typical:

These are the nuts on my 1993 4004L Laredo (note the maple fingerboard). I've strung this BEAD with the two middle strings shifted over to get a better look in the truss-rod cavity.

Nutsweb_zpscb104d92.jpg
Click to expand...


Thanks for the photo! That helps a lot! So I assume that these are up to tension right? Your neck is adjusted and up to the right tension with the nuts in this orientation?

The amount of thread showing above the nut on this bass was a little less than twice that amount, and as I said, I hadn't tighetned the nuts up yet.

Starting to get the feeling that there might be a problem with the rods in this bass. Sheesh! Will this ever end?

I'm going to check the nuts on the other one later today and compare.
 
#245
I said it was typical, but every instrument may be a little different. If you get a half an inch of thread showing and it's still loose, then, yeah, there's probably something gone wrong. On current models, the "fixed end" of the rods is held in place with an acorn nut and small washer. The acorn nut should be visible at the body end of the neck under the fingerboard. Sometimes (not often at all) overdoing the truss-rod adjustment squishes the acorn nut and washer into the wood and repair will be necessary.
 
#246
PaulBoyer said:
Wonder how it would look on my "naked tuxedo"?

Nakedtuxweb.jpg
Click to expand...


Oh yeah Paul, that "naked" tuxedo rocks!!

GG7, without the tool to see how tight the truss rod nuts are, you really cant tell what condition they are in. I'll pull the TRC off my 4003 and let you know how much is exposed. I'll do the same with my 4004 since they have the same necks. I'll get back to you.

Sepp
 
#247
Kopfjaeger said:
Oh yeah Paul, that "naked" tuxedo rocks!!

GG7, without the tool to see how tight the truss rod nuts are, you really cant tell what condition they are in. I'll pull the TRC off my 4003 and let you know how much is exposed. I'll do the same with my 4004 since they have the same necks. I'll get back to you.

Sepp
Click to expand...

Thanks Sepp!

The more examples I can see from you guys, the easier it will be for me to try and determine where mine falls in line with the average. I don't know what is going on with my nut driver tool. The status has not updated in several days. Hope it didn't get lost in transit! Will call Amazon later if it doesn't arrive or updates on the tracking page.
 
#248
GG7,

OK, good news. Both my 2012 4004 and 2011 4003 have at least an 1/8 of truss rod thread protruding. My 4003 is not over tight at all, quite the contrary and it's one of the more stable necks. My 4004 is another story. if rain in in the forecast, it's time for a truss rod adjustmemt! No, not quite but I need to screw with it more than my others.

Here is a foto.

Sepp
 

Attachments

  • #14.jpg
    #14.jpg
    147.7 KB · Views: 95
#252
I kinda wish they would have sold it to me for my 4002 project bass. The 4004 is cool and all, but I would have rather this 4002 bound left over slab of ebony to be on my 4002!

Oh that and swap out my gently used 4002 pickguard with the one off their 4002 in the RIC private collection. Too much to ask?? I think not!!:D

Sepp
 
#254
JLY said:
Paul Boyer - that is an incredible looking Ric I lave the board. How much of a difference in sound with the maple?
Click to expand...

"They" say that basses with a maple fingerboard sound brighter than rosewood (or bubinga, or maybe ebony), but in no way can I claim any expertise on the "sound" of any instrument. To me, so much of an instrument's sound is created by the player's technique, that I cannot assess any differences among my own collection. There are so many variables, even if you A and B them through the same amp settings: age, thickness of neck, material of the fingerboard, string gauge, string material, string brand, string tension, string age, string cleanliness, height of pickups to the strings . . . I ain't going into that briar patch.
 
#255
Hey good Ric people!

I have a "value" question as I have a line on a '75 4001 through a friend of a friend. It sports lots of mojo / dings / scrapes, etc and the biggest devaluers are that the original long-gone pickups have been replaced with Bartolini's and the neck has some delamination on the E side (about an inch long) by the nut but the owner swears it has been stable for many years. The color is a nice creamy white with black guard and truss rod cover. Vintage G&G case, too.

The guy is asking $1200 but what do you think is an appropriate market value? As it is on the other side of the US, I can't put it through its paces or give it proper scrutiny.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Stephen
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back