The Rickenbacker Club Part Eight

[IngloriousOz]

well, the TRC is simple enough; send them your old one, and they'll send you one in the colour you want. The hardware, I can't help you. Although it's pretty well-documented that the black hardware was somehow less sturdy than the standard chrome. So.... maybe some black spray paint and/or candy apple-style dipping?

They won't do the TRC swaps anymore, talked to someone at Rickenbacker a couple weeks ago and they have stopped doing it sadly.

 

[ko stradivarius]

I picked up a spare set of Rickenbacker marked black tuners a while back on eBay. Hipshot makes replacements (non RIC marked), so that is an option. Yeah, you can paint the tailpiece but I'd have it powdercoated like the originals. It's much more durable. If you do this to the older non reenforced tailpieces, you should pre drill and countersink it for the two extra screws. The heat during the powdercoat process screws with the hardness of the metal. Your screwed when it comes to the treble pup cover. that is black plastic. Rare as hens teeth to see these for sale. i only have one that came with my Shadow, nope, it's not for sale either.

Sepp

Yup. Back in the day when Ric was fun I was able to order essentially a Blackstar without the black fretboard. It came with with the black treble pup cover wich Im sure I threw away anyway.

 

[ko stradivarius]

They won't do the TRC swaps anymore, talked to someone at Rickenbacker a couple weeks ago and they have stopped doing it sadly.

Bummer. I had called months ago about swapping my trc for a plexi one. $150 + sending mine in. I couldnt justify the price just for some "coolness".

 

[woodyng]

Bummer. I had called months ago about swapping my trc for a plexi one. $150 + sending mine in. I couldnt justify the price just for some "coolness".

That is too bad,i also wanted to get a gold plexi for my Cii,but ended up painting the standard trc gold,and then doing a black sharpie on the raised letters. It worked out really well,actually.

 

[Kenzy]

I don't understand the purpose of the black velcro on the pickguard. It looks like velcro, anyway...

 

[BassGen]

I don't understand the purpose of the black velcro on the pickguard. It looks like velcro, anyway...

Holy crap! Great eyes! How'd you even spot that? I'm curious now too.

 

[RJHall]

Holy crap! Great eyes! How'd you even spot that? I'm curious now too.

I used to do that on my Fenders years ago! I would put a little piece of velcro on my picks and stick em to the PG for quickly switching between fingers/pick. I thought I invented that whole concept... found better ways to go about that nowadays, but funny.

 

[hsech]

Here's mine. Can I have a number?

 

[2nd Wind]

OK. It's not for me, but it's good to know.



The problem I'm seeing is that apparently old pictures, then, are still being used by retailers to represent current stock.

Two objectionable outcomes are the dread "Clownglo" and a nasty red-over-pink, both notionally stocked Fireglo finishes:

Google "4003 fireglo" and the images are all over the place in terms of what these basses may actually look like.

Also be aware on overexposed (too strong flash) pictures it makes them look more like this picture. Correctly exposed pictures of current FGs are consistently gently fading into the center. Since Eric Behring took up managing the paint booth they are classic looking and consistent.

 

[2nd Wind]

They won't do the TRC swaps anymore, talked to someone at Rickenbacker a couple weeks ago and they have stopped doing it sadly.

Spray it black, then carefully sand the lettering back to the white plastic. You will lose the Made In America but you will have white on black.

 

[2nd Wind]

Thanks for that added info! Why clamp the fretboard? Worry about it popping off or something?

At the moment, the rod threads are extending beyond the end of each nut by a little more than about 1/8th of an inch and look even with each other in that regard. Does that give you guys an idea of how much force they currently are having on the neck?

Is what I am seeing right now with this 4003 normal for a factory fresh bass? I had heard that RIC didn't do any kind of setup to these when they ship them out, and I can honestly say... They weren't kidding! LOL!

You clamp so as not to possibly pop the fretboard.

If the rod is sticking 1/8" or more out of the truss nut this is definitely NOT normal. From the neck action you mention, one or both rods could be broken. OR the maple at the body end is soft and letting the rods get pulled into the neck and rendering the adjusting useless. Until you get a 1/4" driver that fits and are able to check the truss rods, it is all speculation. Both conditions I've described have happened to Ricks.

I really have to wonder in what conditions MF store these basses. I can assure you beyond a doubt they are not leaving the factory like this.

 

[ko stradivarius]

That is too bad,i also wanted to get a gold plexi for my Cii,but ended up painting the standard trc gold,and then doing a black sharpie on the raised letters. It worked out really well,actually.

I still have this set made from walnut.
Not sure what I'll ever do with them though.

 

[Tarrbot]

I still have this set made from walnut.
Not sure what I'll ever do with them though.

I could see this looking good on black... like a black 4003S/5.

 

[thiocyclist]

That walnut belongs on a Mapleglo! Nice.

 

[Spectrum]

I still have this set made from walnut.
Not sure what I'll ever do with them though.

I agree, that might look sweet on a mapleglo!

I used to be handy with an engraver; I've thought of making a TRC like that if I ever wanted to change out the hardware on my Ric. Would let me keep the original parts that way.

 

[Tarrbot]

I don't know.

I don't think it looks bad on black. Not the best Photoshop job around but it gives the impression.

 

[GG7]

You clamp so as not to possibly pop the fretboard.

If the rod is sticking 1/8" or more out of the truss nut this is definitely NOT normal. From the neck action you mention, one or both rods could be broken. OR the maple at the body end is soft and letting the rods get pulled into the neck and rendering the adjusting useless. Until you get a 1/4" driver that fits and are able to check the truss rods, it is all speculation. Both conditions I've described have happened to Ricks.

I really have to wonder in what conditions MF store these basses. I can assure you beyond a doubt they are not leaving the factory like this.

Does anyone have a photo of what normal truss rod nuts are supposed to look like from the factory? I assume that if 1/8 inch of the threaded end of the rod above the nut is not normal, then what is considered normal? Should the rod threads be flush with the nut before adjustments are made to tighten them?

The truss rod adjustment driver I ordered is still not here yet, so I can't yet try adjusting this thing, but if the rods are broken, then it obviously won't matter.

I still have the 2nd bass here too, but it has been all packed up and sealed for shipment back to MF. I was just holding onto it until I was done adjusting this one just in case I ran into a problem which it looks like I may have?

I still have the option to send both of these basses back and just cancel the entire deal, but I have gotten comfortable with getting a 4003 for so cheap!

Can I get a second opinion on the truss rod issue? Some photos of what a normal set of truss rod nuts should look like would be a big help.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Paul Boyer]

This is typical:

These are the nuts on my 1993 4004L Laredo (note the maple fingerboard). I've strung this BEAD with the two middle strings shifted over to get a better look in the truss-rod cavity.

 

[ko stradivarius]

That walnut belongs on a Mapleglo! Nice.

Thats what they were on. Unfortunately, while looking good with the walnut wings on the headstock it clashed with the bubinga fretboard. ....which made me play bad.
I have a pic somewhere around here.

 

[Paul Boyer]

Wonder how it would look on my "naked tuxedo"?