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The Rickenbacker Club Part Eight

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My $0.02,

While not always the most usable option, the .0047 cap has its moments sometimes. Especially in the middle position, it/you can get some really cool tones. Agreed that the bridge p'up on its own with the cap in sounds a bit thin, but for Ric-o-Sound moments, it can make sense.

I don't know why one would totally remove a feature from this bass, when a very small amount of extra work (and $$ if you don't have the parts on hand) can yield you *all* options with a push/pull tone pot. I would say 95% of the time, I use the bypassed setting on my bass, but for the 5% of the time I use the .0047 cap, it's totally worth the effort!
 
My $0.02,

While not always the most usable option, the .0047 cap has its moments sometimes. Especially in the middle position, it/you can get some really cool tones. Agreed that the bridge p'up on its own with the cap in sounds a bit thin, but for Ric-o-Sound moments, it can make sense.

I don't know why one would totally remove a feature from this bass, when a very small amount of extra work (and $$ if you don't have the parts on hand) can yield you *all* options with a push/pull tone pot. I would say 95% of the time, I use the bypassed setting on my bass, but for the 5% of the time I use the .0047 cap, it's totally worth the effort!
A well spent $0.02 if I May say so. Why not keep all options open?
 
My $0.02,

While not always the most usable option, the .0047 cap has its moments sometimes. Especially in the middle position, it/you can get some really cool tones. Agreed that the bridge p'up on its own with the cap in sounds a bit thin, but for Ric-o-Sound moments, it can make sense.

I don't know why one would totally remove a feature from this bass, when a very small amount of extra work (and $$ if you don't have the parts on hand) can yield you *all* options with a push/pull tone pot. I would say 95% of the time, I use the bypassed setting on my bass, but for the 5% of the time I use the .0047 cap, it's totally worth the effort!

More support for the push/pull tone pot. I am a newbie Ric owner having just recently got my 4001 on a trade with another first class TBer. Mine came with the push/pull tone pot and a high gain neck pup already installed, and it sounds AMAZZZZING :bassist: I wouldn't change a thing. But the original parts were included in the deal if I ever want to restore it to original... cool :cool:

I had lots of questions and received plenty of good advice and encouragement from other Ric owners on TB, so thank you for that :)

Now I have a new question. My 4001 is missing the bridge pup cover, like most that I see in pictures. Why does almost everyone remove this??? I like the looks of it and am thinking of finding one and putting it back. I only play finger picking style, no slap... Is there any reason why I should not do this?
 
The bridge pickup has a larger magnet.

You are absolutely right, sir - I stand corrected (doesn't look different to me, but I'm old, and trying to peer under the bridge cover with bifocals...):rollno:
+1 for the push/pull switch. My '01 4003 didn't have one (or the capacitor). After it was installed - wonderschoen! So nice, I put one in my 4001, too.
Why take the bridge cover off? Probably as many reasons as there are Ricks with them off. Basically, because it's in the way of how/what people play now. Since most of what I play is about as old as this bass' design, it doesn't bother me, so mine are both on. They're cheap, from the Rickenbacker website's Boutique, and it takes about 5 minutes to put it on/ take it off. And yes, a new one will fit your 4001.
 
The neck pickup is really good at sounding big and puffy (kind of a felt not heard thing) but most modern styles are better suited by the bridge pickup, and I agree the cap seems to hinder that. The neck pickup is good for older style music in my opinion or if you have a really good rig for reproducing low frequencies it's probably also good for dubby bass. With both pickups on it seems to be much like a Jazz Bass where you lose a lot of midrange definition but there's a good rumble at the bottom and clarity on top, which seems to fit modern rock really well.
 
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the bass is a 1985.the band and I went to guitar center in Hollywood,ca. in `85 to buy our own recording equipment,because we were tired of paying for studio time.while the guitar player and me were looking at equipment,the drummer comes over to me and says"man you need to come check out this bass."i saw it and almost ****!needless to say I was another $1000.00 poorer that day.later I come to find out that fretless rics are special order,so I do not no how it wound up in the store.all I know is the damn drummer owes me $1000.00 bucks!
 
Decided it had been a while since I had properly busted out some Geddy licks, so late last night I decided to make a little noise and a video to match!

EDIT: I guess just to add to the .0047 cap discussion, this recording was done with the cap engaged on the bridge pickup. Hoping anyone concerned with the 'debate' will hopefully find this interesting food for thought!


geddy_lee.jpg


*warning: 4080 not actually in video...:bawl:
 
So I just bought myself a 2007 Jetglo Rick last monday :hyper:, and it's great overall, I just have a few questions to ask here.

First of all, the strings are quite dead, so im changing those to the same I always use. But I find that the actions is also a little high for my preference, my LTD is quite a bit lower and I would like to get it somewhere around the same height.
If I do this, then afther I have to re-intonate right?
Is it realy that hard to do? I've been reading a bit here: Invalid Link Removed

So it seems to me to re-intonate afther changing the heigt I should just tune it, check the 12th, if its not right, detune the string, get it out of the way, retune, check, etc...

Am I right or is it more difficult then I assume?

Also, the sadle of the A string ratlls when I play it (I play with A pick)
It seems a bit loose, any thoughts on how I could fix this?

Some cellphone pics
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Jerry,

Nice Jetglo!! OK, first off, hoe straight is your neck? I find my action goes to hell in a handbasket when my neck bows forward slightly. Normally this happens in the drier winter weather. Humidity tends to make the neck backbow. That's why normally you expect to adjust the truss rods twice yearly as the seasons change. First check your neck for straightness. many will tell you set it dead flat but all my Rickenbackers like a slight amount of bow, a very slight amount!!

Each of my basses are a little different. Are changing string gauges? If so you will need to intonate. In my experience changing the bridge height does not screw with intonation all too much.

Work on getting your neck straight, your bridge height, then intonate. Setting intonation is a trial and error type operation but once set it is rock solid and rarely ever has to be screwed with.

Does your saddle rock side to side?? If so it is defective. My D string saddle does the same thing. If it's slight, wedge a slim piece of a pick under it and rock that bass like it wants to be rocked!! Or you can order a new saddle and cut a new slot if the wedge method bothers you.

Oh, Joey from Joey's bass notes rocks!! He is a great guy that knows Rickenbacker basses like the back of his hand. Joey has assisted me numerous times with questions I've had. His site has a huge amount of great info on it!!

Sepp
 
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