The SCP - Single Cut P-Bass

[Jeff Siddall]

This will be the 7th build I've done. (Including the 4 I built in high school).

The problem is that I am running out of basses that I need

That's just silly talk! 4 string? 5 string? 6 string? Fretless? Multiscale? Short scale? FSOs? Active? Hollow body? Bass VI? Everyone needs at least one of each of those, and then there are all the combinations. Ex: have you got a short scale 5 string hollow fretless?

If you need help deciding, just let me know what you already have and I can tell you what you should build next!

 

[NKBassman]

That's just stilly talk! 4 string? 5 string? 6 string? Fretless? Multiscale? Short scale? FSOs? Active? Hollow body? Bass VI? Everyone needs at least one of each of those, and then there are all the combinations. Ex: have you got a short scale 5 string hollow fretless?

If you need help deciding, just let me know what you already have and I can tell you what you should build next!

I was going to say a short multiscale 5-string fretless Bass VI!

 

[Videojunkie]

I might have room in my collection for a multi-scale headless 7 string, but the hardware (and electronics) push it right out of the budget. Probably close to $1500 - 2k before I start buying lumber...

My first bass was almost ( thiiis close -><- ) a Pedulla 7 string. Unfortunately I also needed a bass amp at the same time, and couldn't afford both.

 

[Jeff Siddall]

I might have room in my collection for a multi-scale headless 7 string, but the hardware (and electronics) push it right out of the budget. Probably close to $1500 - 2k before I start buying lumber...

My first bass was almost ( thiiis close -><- ) a Pedulla 7 string. Unfortunately I also needed a bass amp at the same time, and couldn't afford both.

7 strings! I hadn't even mentioned those. I guess three, two and one strings too:



Regarding headless hardware, making your own is a good way to drive down cost

There is a thread about that here:

Machine Shop Practice: Making Custom Metal Hardware For Basses

 

[Videojunkie]

7 strings! I hadn't even mentioned those. I guess three, two and one strings too:



Regarding headless hardware, making your own is a good way to drive down cost

There is a thread about that here:

Machine Shop Practice: Making Custom Metal Hardware For Basses

I've been reading that thread with great interest.

Here's a sketch I came up with for a tuner tailpiece. Rough tuning using the rear adjustment, with fine tuning with the front screw.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I've been reading that thread with great interest.

Here's a sketch I came up with for a tuner tailpiece. Rough tuning using the rear adjustment, with fine tuning with the front screw.
View attachment 5081877

Intriguing. I hope to see it come to at least a prototype one of these days.

 

[Videojunkie]

I'm figuring out the bridge saddles with intonation and height adjustment. One of the problems I foresee is that the 2 screws are over $12 before you add the grub screws and adjustment for the saddle or the brass/aluminum for the entire thing... so probably $30-$40 /string?

 

[Jeff Siddall]

I have been considering the use of simple machines (levers typically) more recently as a way to improve those simple straight pull headless tuners, given the issues I have had with fine threads. Rose bridges, and the string height portion of the Babicz bridges, are a couple of different takes but I have yet to concieve a non-mickey mouse design that I could easily manufacture to accomplish it. I like the idea of yours, but it still looks more intricate than my current ability allows.

Regarding the cost, even $30-40 per string is a pretty good price for high quality headless hardware.

 

[Videojunkie]

I have been considering the use of simple machines (levers typically) more recently as a way to improve those simple straight pull headless tuners, given the issues I have had with fine threads. Rose bridges, and the string height portion of the Babicz bridges, are a couple of different takes but I have yet to concieve a non-mickey mouse design that I could easily manufacture to accomplish it. I like the idea of yours, but it still looks more intricate than my current ability allows.

Regarding the cost, even $30-40 per string is a pretty good price for high quality headless hardware.

The big part I need to sort is retaining the ball end of the string. I've got a couple of ideas for the shape there, and it would require prototyping to get it absolutely right.

One possibility is to put a clamp at the bridge end, and retain the balls at the nut. I'm not sure how you'd do it without requiring an extra tool to change strings...

 

[Max Bogosity]

The big part I need to sort is retaining the ball end of the string. I've got a couple of ideas for the shape there, and it would require prototyping to get it absolutely right.

One possibility is to put a clamp at the bridge end, and retain the balls at the nut. I'm not sure how you'd do it without requiring an extra tool to change strings...

Don’t you generally need an extra tool regardless? Headless hardware with the ball end at the bridge usually needs a hex key for the clamps at the nut.

 

[Videojunkie]

Good point. I wonder if there's a way to have the fine tuning screw do double duty?

.... hmm ....

 

[Videojunkie]

Been a busy day! My daughter wanted me to help her build a box for her Gramz (my stepmother-in-law), so we did that out of poplar and mahogany.

Then when I started working on the cabinet for my wife my motor on the tablesaw seized.

Fortunately my neighbor is somewhat of a wizard when it comes to fixing things. He helped me tear it apart and clean ages of sawdust and dust. We lubed the bearings and put it all back together. Works the best that I can remember!

While I was working on tablesaw maintenance, I decided to go ahead and make a zero tolerance blade insert. Why didn't I make one of these years ago!


Got all the cutting for the last drawer for my wife's cabinet finished!

Those clamps are handy for holding parts together, but I think I'm still going to need a pair of 48" parallel clamps....

 

[Isaac_James]

Been a busy day! My daughter wanted me to help her build a box for her Gramz (my stepmother-in-law), so we did that out of poplar and mahogany.

Then when I started working on the cabinet for my wife my motor on the tablesaw seized.
View attachment 5082934 View attachment 5082935
Fortunately my neighbor is somewhat of a wizard when it comes to fixing things. He helped me tear it apart and clean ages of sawdust and dust. We lubed the bearings and put it all back together. Works the best that I can remember!

While I was working on tablesaw maintenance, I decided to go ahead and make a zero tolerance blade insert. Why didn't I make one of these years ago!
View attachment 5082936

Got all the cutting for the last drawer for my wife's cabinet finished!

View attachment 5082937

Those clamps are handy for holding parts together, but I think I'm still going to need a pair of 48" parallel clamps....

Really, it can't be a proper woodshop project if you don't need to buy at least one new tool. At least that's the excuse my Dad makes.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Been a busy day! My daughter wanted me to help her build a box for her Gramz (my stepmother-in-law), so we did that out of poplar and mahogany.

Then when I started working on the cabinet for my wife my motor on the tablesaw seized.
View attachment 5082934 View attachment 5082935
Fortunately my neighbor is somewhat of a wizard when it comes to fixing things. He helped me tear it apart and clean ages of sawdust and dust. We lubed the bearings and put it all back together. Works the best that I can remember!

While I was working on tablesaw maintenance, I decided to go ahead and make a zero tolerance blade insert. Why didn't I make one of these years ago!
View attachment 5082936

Got all the cutting for the last drawer for my wife's cabinet finished!

View attachment 5082937

Those clamps are handy for holding parts together, but I think I'm still going to need a pair of 48" parallel clamps....

You pretty much always need another clamp. Unless you need two…

 

[Videojunkie]

You pretty much always need another clamp. Unless you need two…

I was hoping to avoid having to spend the crazy money they want for the good 48" parallel clamps. It's all good though, like you said, you can never have enough clamps!

 

[Videojunkie]

Did some more figuring on that headless bass tuner.

 

[Videojunkie]

For the headless tuners, parts and bar stock before any manufacturing, about $30 ea. I'm a bit worried about the brass block retaining the threads for the straight pull tension, as that's a common problem with diy tuners of this style.

That said, with the tuners being less than 12.5mm wide x 14mm tall they're not very big. Here's a couple of string spacing layouts.

 

[Jeff Siddall]

For the headless tuners, parts and bar stock before any manufacturing, about $30 ea. I'm a bit worried about the brass block retaining the threads for the straight pull tension, as that's a common problem with diy tuners of this style.

That said, with the tuners being less than 12.5mm wide x 14mm tall they're not very big. Here's a couple of string spacing layouts.
View attachment 5085919

If the thread is big enough, and coarse enough, it won't pull out. Steinberger used M3.5x0.6 mm threads for their headless hardware. I tried M3x0.35 and, at least with less than about 7 mm thread length, they pulled out. You can have a look here for more detail:

One piece black walnut crotch headless 6 string

 

[Videojunkie]

If the thread is big enough, and coarse enough, it won't pull out. Steinberger used M3.5x0.6 mm threads for their headless hardware. I tried M3x0.35 and, at least with less than about 7 mm thread length, they pulled out. You can have a look here for more detail:

One piece black walnut crotch headless 6 string

I was planning M4x 0.7mm.

I was wondering if the 11mm thumb screws would be big enough, or should I look at the ones that are 16mm in diameter?

I'm also not a materials engineer, so I'm assuming 1.5mm on the sides is adequate to keep everything aligned...

 

[Jeff Siddall]

1.5 mm is pretty thin. I would think you will have problems on those threads and walls without more material. A test part would be needed to confirm/deny any guesses.

My initial tests were with M5x0.8 mm, and while they worked, having finer threads would be better. I would think turning an 11 mm knob would be difficult under string tension.

My next test will be using M5x0.5 mm and I plan to use knobs only a mm or two narrower than the string spacing.

Please post how things go. I am interested to see your progress!