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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Ok I was mistaking the parallel tube as a tube buffer stage my bad. Wasn't the parallel tube part of effectrodes design to help aid in noise reduction I just remember them mention the reason on the third tube being one of the distinct features /advantages to the design? I'm sorry my knowledge of circuit designs is minimal so I very well could be missing the point. I also know I'm abit hard to deal with I'm a very picky player so I apologize if I seem overly apprehensive. This is my first pedal thru sushi box and I just really want it to be a home run.
No worries, so you're correct, the parallel tube stages is for noise reduction, but they had 4 tube stages in parallel, I just dropped it to two. Does it sound 100% as good? Well no. Does it sound 98% as good? In my (completely biased) opinion yes.

And seriously if you're ever on the fence about something let me know, you're not that far away I'd be happy to let you try things out. I'm trying to start keeping one of everything on hand in my personal stock for that purpose, I actually have a guy coming down next weekend to try out his bass through a PA and PAX to see if it's going to work for his rig.
 
No worries, so you're correct, the parallel tube stages is for noise reduction, but they had 4 tube stages in parallel, I just dropped it to two. Does it sound 100% as good? Well no. Does it sound 98% as good? In my (completely biased) opinion yes.

And seriously if you're ever on the fence about something let me know, you're not that far away I'd be happy to let you try things out. I'm trying to start keeping one of everything on hand in my personal stock for that purpose, I actually have a guy coming down next weekend to try out his bass through a PA and PAX to see if it's going to work for his rig.
That sounds about what I was thinking and has me slightly concerned. I originally used a Ehx Black Finger tube comp and really dug its overall sound but it was far too noisey so I ended up selling it. Have you had any experience with a Black Finger to compare it? I know it uses two 12ax7 tubes as well and is pushing 300 plate voltage so the higher voltage could be introducing more noise. I'm wondering if the deep dish is a improvement in stnr? I know I prefer the Deep Dish Metering top load jacks and control layout plus the deep dish doesn't require that weird wallwart to power it.
 
That sounds about what I was thinking and has me slightly concerned. I originally used a Ehx Black Finger tube comp and really dug its overall sound but it was far too noisey so I ended up selling it. Have you had any experience with a Black Finger to compare it? I know it uses two 12ax7 tubes as well and is pushing 300 plate voltage so the higher voltage could be introducing more noise. I'm wondering if the deep dish is a improvement in stnr? I know I prefer the Deep Dish Metering top load jacks and control layout plus the deep dish doesn't require that weird wallwart to power it.
I've never tried a black finger, but I have heard that they are noisey, Deep Dish definitely is not. Generally in tube circuits higher plate voltage does not introduce noise, the most common source is dirty power. I'm pretty proud of how I do things power wise, especially since my day job before moving here was designing power supply circuits.

While we're on the topic I of Deep Dish I wanted to share this. It still needs knobs and a back plate put on, but I really dig this look.
IMG_20210201_002229.jpg
 
Oh my! that looks awesome. The better power supply makes sense the one on the ehx was awful. Are you able to do the font in black on the violet sparkle finish or would it look too dark or maybe black outlined in white could make it pop enough?
I did black on a violet sparkle last month and it was too dark, it's actually coming back to me so I can refinish it in white. White outline on black letters might work though, I'll have to try it out. It's unfortunate because all the cool finishes are dark finishes, but the printer prints a lot better in black than it does in white, the black prints just turn out sharper.
 
In case anyone was wondering, this is the enclosure that will be housing my D.I. transformer shootout board and will be a potential candidate for whatever I end up doing with a tube pre, DI, and possibly headphone amp. It's a Hammond 515-0910 and dimensions are 6 in x 4.5 in x 2.13 in (152 mm x 114 mm x 54 mm). The top panel is aluminum and the bottom is steel, so it has a fair bit of weight to it.

16121950760178952311645992393798.jpg
 
In case anyone was wondering, this is the enclosure that will be housing my D.I. transformer shootout board and will be a potential candidate for whatever I end up doing with a tube pre, DI, and possibly headphone amp. It's a Hammond 515-0910 and dimensions are 6 in x 4.5 in x 2.13 in (152 mm x 114 mm x 54 mm). The top panel is aluminum and the bottom is steel, so it has a fair bit of weight to it.

View attachment 4151396

That looks lovely! Can't wait to hear how it goes.
 
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In case anyone was wondering, this is the enclosure that will be housing my D.I. transformer shootout board and will be a potential candidate for whatever I end up doing with a tube pre, DI, and possibly headphone amp. It's a Hammond 515-0910 and dimensions are 6 in x 4.5 in x 2.13 in (152 mm x 114 mm x 54 mm). The top panel is aluminum and the bottom is steel, so it has a fair bit of weight to it.

The size and weight of this doesn't put me off in the least. So many of the Tube DIs I'm looking at are not board mountable. This seems completely doable on a board. Although, after seeing what some of these guys are doing with the lunchbox Broughtons I'm thinking that anything on the planet can be mounted on a board.
 
I've never tried a black finger, but I have heard that they are noisey, Deep Dish definitely is not. Generally in tube circuits higher plate voltage does not introduce noise, the most common source is dirty power. I'm pretty proud of how I do things power wise, especially since my day job before moving here was designing power supply circuits.

While we're on the topic I of Deep Dish I wanted to share this. It still needs knobs and a back plate put on, but I really dig this look.
View attachment 4151098
Would 2 stacked pots be a complete board re-design? I know things are tight in there, I couldn't find the board pic from before
 
Would 2 stacked pots be a complete board re-design? I know things are tight in there, I couldn't find the board pic from before
Are you talking about doing 2 stacked pots instead of 4 individual pots? That wouldn't work because they're all different value so the chances of finding a workable stacked pot are slim. If you mean adding stacked pots to add features it would be a bit of work to shuffle and squeeze things, but could be doable depending on what's being changed.

IMG_20210201_101955.jpg
 
Are you talking about doing 2 stacked pots instead of 4 individual pots? That wouldn't work because they're all different value so the chances of finding a workable stacked pot are slim. If you mean adding stacked pots to add features it would be a bit of work to shuffle and squeeze things, but could be doable depending on what's being changed.

View attachment 4151417
Reducing down to 2 for more twisty room, or maybe staggered 4. I could get around it, maybe with some smaller stim knobs - nice and neat though inside, that kind of stuff is gear porn for me :drool:
With the jacks in there, is it possible to pry these tubes out? I was thinking there was room for activities up top until I remembered the in/out/pwr
 
Reducing down to 2 for more twisty room, or maybe staggered 4. I could get around it, maybe with some smaller stim knobs - nice and neat though inside, that kind of stuff is gear porn for me :drool:
With the jacks in there, is it possible to pry these tubes out? I was thinking there was room for activities up top until I remembered the in/out/pwr
Yeah, there's kind of a squeeze/wiggle/pull maneuver I've perfected for X Series and Deep Dish for changing tubes, it can absolutely be done. Maybe I'll make a 30 second video on how to change a tube so I don't have to awkwardly explain it :p

Reducing number of pots for twisty room unfortunately isn't really possible on this one.
 
There were some tips in the Shift Line Olympic thread about changing tubes, because that one is apparently pretty tight as well. One person suggested using a piece of folded gaff tape (the long way and folding in on the adhesive side so it's not sticky). Another suggested a disposable wire tie wrap. Maybe suggestions that would work here as well. I would think anything that you could use to get around the tube and have a little grip would work, like even a rubber band.

5sg.
 
There were some tips in the Shift Line Olympic thread about changing tubes, because that one is apparently pretty tight as well. One person suggested using a piece of folded gaff tape (the long way and folding in on the adhesive side so it's not sticky). Another suggested a disposable wire tie wrap. Maybe suggestions that would work here as well. I would think anything that you could use to get around the tube and have a little grip would work, like even a rubber band.

5sg.

I followed Sushi's suggestion of slowly getting it out. Worked for me. Switching how the tube is seated will help as once you get it out, the harder part IMO is when putting a new one in, lining up the 12AX7 just right with it backwards requires some patience.