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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
Realized my (near) perfect tone.
Belle Starr>PDR>Space Heater.
Mid-forward grit, into fattening comp, into tuberizer.
Heaven.
Sounds a treat too
Honestly same
I didn't think I would care very much, but I wish I had set one aside for myself. I continue to hold the belief that the difference in sound between SMD caps and film caps is negligible, but running at 350V instead of 235V is a huge difference in tone. I love the way this thing sounds, and I definitely foresee doing more limited run versions like this. Probably leave out the turrets next time and go straight to the board though, dealing with the turrets was a headache.
Is 350V power a special quirk on these ones, or could you implement that on the rest of your crop in the future?Sounds a treat too
Honestly same
The voltage is limited to 235V on typical offerings because I use 250V capacitors, but since these use 400V capacitors I can up the voltage a bit. I've started looking at higher voltage capacitors for the SMD versions, but it would mean moving up in package size. Not a dealbreaker, but a consideration.
There's not enough room in the double X box for 400v film caps? anything I've heard that blew me away had multiples of those, they take up real-estate but worth it IMO. I've always had really on point dynamics with over capacitance gear
EDIT: just realized you said XX box, not BB box so I deleted a bunch of stuff that I had written previously. I could do just about any preamp in a 1590XX box with carbon comp resistors and film caps like this, I would even have room for turrets like this build, but I don't plan on making it a regular thing, partially because I don't like dealing with big boxes like that when I don't have to (the obvious exception is when I have to use 3 tubes in one box).
Like I said I personally don't hear a difference between film caps and MLCC, and I can get 500V MLCC in a larger SMD package, so that would be the easiest (and most cost effective, film caps are $$ compared to MLCC) way for me to run higher voltages in the regular preamps.
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Yeah, there's always long discussions about film and ceramic. Everything I've seen them used in were lunchbox - rack gear, so there was space to spare, mains powered as well, but you could always be the first! lol
And honestly now that I know that I like the sound better at higher voltages I'm debating doing a Black Eye in this style for myself, but I'll need to figure out how big of a box that would be. I may be able to squeeze a dual tube build into a BB with carbon comp resistors and film caps, but more likely looking at XX.
My opinion/vote (not that you asked for it) would be to keep to the smaller box sizes as much as possible for regular production stuff, especially if the difference in overall sound is negligible. If we're talking about chasing the last 5%, then I'm ok to settle for 95% and a smaller box, thank you very much. 
Special limited runs would be a different story, of course.
Special limited runs would be a different story, of course.
Wait for me to announce another limited run, or track down everyone that bought one and bother them until they let go of theirs
Yeah that's still the current plan. I will always be more comfortable designing SMD into small boxes, and it's so much faster to put together it's absurd. So I'll still do limited run special editions like this every now and then, but it's not even being considered for becoming the new standard.My opinion/vote would be to keep to the smaller box sizes as much as possible for regular production stuff, especially if the difference in overall sound is negligible. If we're talking about chasing the last 5%, then I'm ok to settle for 95% and a smaller box, thank you very much.
Special limited runs would be a different story, of course.
In this photo you can see the microphone that reports back to Nathan what you really think lol j/k
For real though, where did you get the thin wood? All I can find now is 1/8"+, I'm looking for something that has decent, or no grain at all but that thin for a couple guards I'm cutting. My normal guy only has modeling balsa right now..
This stuff is a thin veneer, apparently for furniture repair or something? I got a sample pack of a bunch of different woods (like 30 or so) on amazon. It's all too thin by itself to be used for something like a pickguard, but would look nice over the top of a rigid backing.
Did it have adhesive on the back? that's what I need it for, I have 3/32 board and plastic, I bevel it all once pressed all together. I had some nice burl that looked amazing but I can't find it anymore, yours looks like a decent grain. I'll check Bezos site. thx
It didn't have adhesive on the back, I used glue. If I ever do this again I'm going to find thin sheets of double stick tape or somthing and put them on the back of the wood before cutting so I can have pre-cut adhesive with matching holes and cuts without having to deal with glue.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
I get this from JDS, 3m doubled sided. They make it in different lenght rolls. Squeegee it on the back of your veneer and then laser all your holes and plate. It would give you 100% coverage of your pedal top, adhesive only gets stronger over time as well, 5 years down the road you'd have to break the veneer to remove it.
Perfect, that's exactly the sort of thing I was picturing. Thanks!
