• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The time has come! Markbass MegaThread!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thats what i was thinking but cant find one anywhere
Get something like this PC internal CD audio cable, and then move the wires around (I think they snap in and out).

Invalid Link Removed

By default, these are usually A - G A (audio, n/c, ground, audio... you only need to connect one ground).

You could move that one audio in so it was - A G A and then just leave that fourth hole off the end. You then have three wires coming off the pins using an internal PC cable you can get just about anywhere, and might even have laying around if you've bought a replacement CD-ROM for a PC at some point.

Otherwise, if you want to actually make one yourself, you can get the three pin female header connector and female pins from this site (or one like it) and just crimp/solder the wires onto the pins yourself and snap them into the connector:

http://www.futurlec.com/ConnHead.shtml

You'd need at least one HDCONNS3 and at least one of the HDPINF bags of (10) pins. Literally less than $1.00 in parts. Shipping will cost you more.

Or line 26 from this page:

Invalid Link Removed

Or maybe one of these:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

(or maybe any internal PC fan wire)

or... :)
 
Cool, thanks Vic
I do have a couple of those CD cables at home (never used one).
Not sure i want to be the first though as i don't understand it all and might blow up my amp ;-)
I do understand what your getting at, just not sure of what wire would go to what pin on the switch.
That's the easy part.

The middle pin on the switch is the common, which gets connected to either of the end pins depending on the switch position. Same thing with the jumper... the middle pin is the common one. Just a straight one-to-one wiring will do it.

Awe, c'mon... no smoke no fire no fun, right? ;)

As long as you don't short all three together, you're fine.
 
That's the easy part.

The middle pin on the switch is the common, which gets connected to either of the end pins depending on the switch position. Same thing with the jumper... the middle pin is the common one. Just a straight one-to-one wiring will do it.


OK, you guys have this figured out. Now, how can I get the yellow/orange off:cool:
 
I may pick up either a lm2 or sd800 this weekend, I'm still sort of tossed up - Tom's review of both was quite interesting. When I got my 610HF I tested through an 800 and I liked it (they were all out of lm2s). But if I can be happy with the much cheaper lm2 then its all good, I'm just concerned a touch about power. The 610hf can take up to 1200w, I'm currently feeding it 500 and never come close to full volume.

my hartke ha5500 seems to have blown yet another tube. I dunno *** is up with that. It has happened three times so far, but that is a complaint for another thread.

also, the lack of ears for the lm2 is a touch annoying as I'm a rack guy.

but we'll see, I could always go completely the other way and get a non-mb head. who knows!
 
That's the easy part.

The middle pin on the switch is the common, which gets connected to either of the end pins depending on the switch position. Same thing with the jumper... the middle pin is the common one. Just a straight one-to-one wiring will do it.

Awe, c'mon... no smoke no fire no fun, right? ;)

As long as you don't short all three together, you're fine.


Agreed. This is actually a pretty simple mod. One concern though would be voiding the warranty. What would be really nice is if MB offered an upgrade for this but then you open that whole can of worms.
 
Agreed. This is actually a pretty simple mod. One concern though would be voiding the warranty. What would be really nice is if MB offered an upgrade for this but then you open that whole can of worms.

+1 It would seem that the vast majority of users would want the DI set one way or the other, with just a rare few who would switch back and forth enough for this to really be an issue.

My issue was that rather unusual decision to set the default as post EQ (versus the much more typically used pre). However, with the easy change, I can't imagine going through this hooha to mod it. If it's that important, just get the 450 or whatever the model is with the same amp as the LMII, but with the semi-p mids and the switchable DI.
 
I did it Weds and played out with it last night. The guy that running sound was in a foul stressed out mood and flipped out because he was getting no bass and all mids. I had to pop open the top and switch it back to post EQ.

It could be a number of things... I was running a solo MM pickup flat so it should've be middy. It may have been that his concept of a bass signal comes from the guy who regularly plays w/ that band.

I have no idea what he was hearing so i'm going to compare the signals through headphones today. If it sounds truly flat to me I'll give it another shot. If not I'll keep it post EQ and grab a DI for when I want to run it Pre EQ.
 
I did it Weds and played out with it last night. The guy that running sound was in a foul stressed out mood and flipped out because he was getting no bass and peaky highs. I had to pop open the top and switch it back to post EQ.

I have no idea what he was hearing so i'm going to compare the signals through headphones today. If it sounds truly flat to me I'll give it another shot. If not I'll keep it post EQ and grab a DI for when I want to run it Pre EQ.

That's not good. I am getting VERY good feedback from front of house mixers on the pre EQ signal from the SD800. I was hoping the LMII pre would be identical. Let us know if this was just a strange situation, of if there is really an issue.

Thanks,

K
 
I had problems with the LMII-DI too. Three soundmen said, that the DI soundthin and kinda bassless. So I did a comparison with a sadowsky pre/di and a sansamp bass di in a recording situation. Both sounded much deeper and with the right ooomph. The LMII DI sounded thin here although (I tried pre- and post eq!).
Then I asked my dealer, which contacted markbass. They admited ("under the hand"), that they have used cheap parts for the DI.

I still love this amp ... only use it with an external DI.
 
I had problems with the LMII-DI too. Three soundmen said, that the DI soundthin and kinda bassless. So I did a comparison with a sadowsky pre/di and a sansamp bass di in a recording situation. Both sounded much deeper and with the right ooomph. The LMII DI sounded thin here although (I tried pre- and post eq!).
Then I asked my dealer, which contacted markbass. They admited ("under the hand"), that they have used cheap parts for the DI.

I still love this amp ... only use it with an external DI.

Rats. The SD800 sounds great. I guess they must use a different circuit and components in the bigger boxes.
 
+1... I have a feeling that's the same circuit as in the SD800, which again sounds great. They must use something different in the LMII, if the above posts are representative.

Im not sure its that bad.
when i got my LMII i took it in to a local studio and hooked it up to the desk and it sounded fine. I also use it with out desk and through my small mixer attached to my PC and again, all sounded good.
I did all this because of aaskia having trouble with his one and wanted to check mine was ok.
Of course this is under different circumstances but i couldn't hear any difference between the LMII and the SA450 in post mode (not saying there isn't though)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.