Ah yes, I am quite familiar. They're always hounding me for their business via e-mail blast and cold calls. What other CAD programs do you use? I do all my designing on Macs, but I need something more than what AutoCAD and Illustrator offer.
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There's another storm brewing!
- Thread starter pilotjones
- Start date
After years of 2D AutoCad, my 3D experience is in SolidWorks, then Inventor, then SolidWorks. I'm a big fan of SWX, and definitely not a fan of Inventor, although it has improved.
The electrons flowing through the magnetic field would have an immeasurably small deflection, the deflection force is proportional to their velocity, and in metals the velocity of an electron is a few mm per second, so unless you are holding the battery on with an MRI scanner, there will be no effect whatsoever.
Yes, like I said I expect no problem in a battery, for that reason--the electrons velocities are low, unlike say the free flying electrons in a CRT.
Worth note, though, is that the effect can be both significant and quite useful in a solid material, as used in a Hall effect sensor. It's pretty cool in its simple application of the principle, and they work reliably and well.
Worth note, though, is that the effect can be both significant and quite useful in a solid material, as used in a Hall effect sensor. It's pretty cool in its simple application of the principle, and they work reliably and well.
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Control Holes
I printed up the adjusted pattern of holes, lined it up, and marked the spots.
Drilled them out, from the front face. Only went about 3/8" deep, more than enough to meet up with the cavity that will be routed later.
Damage Control
I decided that to repair the gouge in the neck beam edge from the router collet. A decently matched piece of walnut will look better than epoxy fill, even if it is small and in a fairly hidden area.
I chiseled out the epoxy, and made a fill-in chip from a piece of the same board. To do that I used a couple of chisels, a block plane, and sandpaper. To make the long, 1-2 mm thick chip without breaking it, I had to first bring an old very low angle chisel back from the dead. The tip was really mangled, and it took at least an hour to grind it back, re-bevel, and sharpen.
This is the chip alongside its recess, before gluing. It's glued and in the clamps now.
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This was a tasty follow-up, a nice sessionable brown ale. The first I've had from this brewer. It's not available here in NYC, it was brought back from a southern trip.
I printed up the adjusted pattern of holes, lined it up, and marked the spots.
Drilled them out, from the front face. Only went about 3/8" deep, more than enough to meet up with the cavity that will be routed later.
Damage Control
I decided that to repair the gouge in the neck beam edge from the router collet. A decently matched piece of walnut will look better than epoxy fill, even if it is small and in a fairly hidden area.
I chiseled out the epoxy, and made a fill-in chip from a piece of the same board. To do that I used a couple of chisels, a block plane, and sandpaper. To make the long, 1-2 mm thick chip without breaking it, I had to first bring an old very low angle chisel back from the dead. The tip was really mangled, and it took at least an hour to grind it back, re-bevel, and sharpen.
This is the chip alongside its recess, before gluing. It's glued and in the clamps now.
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This was a tasty follow-up, a nice sessionable brown ale. The first I've had from this brewer. It's not available here in NYC, it was brought back from a southern trip.
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Yes and no. The fretboard will run all the way down to the tail, and will also splay out sideways a bit, so it is sort of a semi-top. Most of the walnut in the wing areas will be visible. It is bookmatched. Also, an insect hole showed up in it as I sanded, so that will have to be filled. It's in a dark stripe, so it should end up nearly invisible.
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Damage Controlled
I planed and then sanded back the repair sliver, then sanded back the entire top. Here it is wet down with some alcohol.
Control Cavity Template and Routing
I did a little revision of the cavity, printed it out, and started a template. Here's a pic of putting in the corners.
You may notice the spade bit there. It cut a nice clean hole when I did a test (those central holes), but what I didn't realize until I did the corners is that the location accuracy sucked, even with a starter punch. I ended up going past my boundary lines.
So, I tossed that one, and started another template. Using Forstners only, followed by spindle sander and files. Then, finishing up the outer surfaces on the edge sander, including the 5˚ bevel at the top edge to mimic the cavity cover. Here I have just used the finished template to draw a pencil line on the surface to be routed, as a check.
Template mounted with sticky tape, about to started the mayhem.
I love those huge forstner shavings. A good sharpening goes a long way, and controlling your feed, neither to fast nor too slow, will do the best job with the least heat generated.
After routing, cavity finished.
You can see the pre-shielded pickup wire hole, the just-in-case bridge wire hole, and one of the dowels that located the wings for gluing.
Bonus pic: fancy ass router shavings.
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This was not bad, but just so-so. I guess the brand is new to the east coast, and this was another beer that was brought up from North Carolina.
Yeah, I have had the Trippel, and agree, it's just pretty OK.
I personally prefer the Ranger IPA from New Belgium to the Trippel. It's not the best IPA I have had, but it's far from the worst.
Thanks for the info re: the top. I realize it's gonna have a full length fingerboard, just was wondering about any additional possible top. The repair looks pretty clean already, should vanish with additional steps.
p.s. Have I mentioned how much I like that body shape? 'Cuz it's a lot.
I personally prefer the Ranger IPA from New Belgium to the Trippel. It's not the best IPA I have had, but it's far from the worst.
Thanks for the info re: the top. I realize it's gonna have a full length fingerboard, just was wondering about any additional possible top. The repair looks pretty clean already, should vanish with additional steps.
p.s. Have I mentioned how much I like that body shape? 'Cuz it's a lot.
SaintMez
Commercial User
- Jan 3, 2010
- 428
- 59
- Disclosures
- Blood Brothers Guitars - Luthier, Porter Guitars - Contractor
wraub - thanks. The shape is growing on me, too. I may like it better than the first one.
SaintMez - thanks.
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Much Ado, About ¿what?
I did a lot today. But it's late, had to make myself go to bed before I made any mistakes from being tired, even though I really didn't feel tired, just mostly exhilarated.
So here's a teaser pic of the wanton destruction
, will make a full post tomorrow.
SaintMez - thanks.
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Much Ado, About ¿what?
I did a lot today. But it's late, had to make myself go to bed before I made any mistakes from being tired, even though I really didn't feel tired, just mostly exhilarated.
So here's a teaser pic of the wanton destruction
, will make a full post tomorrow.
wraub - thanks. The shape is growing on me, too. I may like it better than the first one.
SaintMez - thanks.
______________________________________
Much Ado, About ¿what?
I did a lot today. But it's late, had to make myself go to bed before I made any mistakes from being tired, even though I really didn't feel tired, just mostly exhilarated.
So here's a teaser pic of the wanton destruction
You have my attention.
At this point I was thinking it through -- what can I do while I'm waiting for the magnets and the fretboard?
Outline trimmed to size
I mounted the body template,
(The shims are to raise the template off the tape while positioning it. Then you pull them out, one by one. That's a trick based on what's done with laminate countertops.)
and here it is done.
At this point I was thinking I loved the straight sides, so how about just a slight roundover, like a '51 P?
But, nope.
Step, and magnet holes
I still had to rout the step for the conductive gasket, and I figured I could drill starter holes for the magnets, and take them to proper depth later when I have the magnets in hand.
I made a second template for these two jobs. Here it is mounted,
and the result.
Planning the carve
I taped up my wood selection paper template for the fretboard, so I could mark off the areas that must remain square-edged until the FB is glued on.
Then I roughly chalked the edges of the contours to be carved, based on the CAD, to see them IRL.
Roundovers
I routed roundovers first. I used my thumbnail bit, being careful to stay away from the neck and the FB areas. I had intended to go the full depth of the bit, but decided not to when I saw that I just couldn't get a perfect rout around the horns -- no real router support there, so I was getting some ripples that could be un-fixable if the bit was at full depth. So I routed most of the way down and stopped.
No pics of it at this point. But it is just amazing how the bass becomes alive after the roundover! Enough to make me think, maybe I should leave this with just roundovers.
But, nope.
Carving!
I re-chalked the edges of the material to be removed. Then I got out the shovels and rakes and implements of destruction (if anyone gets that reference ) and got to carving. Here's an in-progress shot.
I am learning about carving as I go at it. The affects of grain direction, of the effect of the waviness of the walnut, the dangers of doing "spot work, " etc. The necessity of pausing to step back and take a broader view. I got a rough carve on the bass side wing, and will do more on it today along with doing the treble side.
Here's where it is now.
I think it is starting to look great with those bevels, which makes me think that maybe I should just do the whole thing in bevels. But, nope. I think in the end it will have this kind of flat bevel planes, but with nice rounded transitions at the edges. I could also go with no flats at a all, more like Ritter, but I don't think so.
Outline trimmed to size
I mounted the body template,
(The shims are to raise the template off the tape while positioning it. Then you pull them out, one by one. That's a trick based on what's done with laminate countertops.)
and here it is done.
At this point I was thinking I loved the straight sides, so how about just a slight roundover, like a '51 P?
But, nope.
Step, and magnet holes
I still had to rout the step for the conductive gasket, and I figured I could drill starter holes for the magnets, and take them to proper depth later when I have the magnets in hand.
I made a second template for these two jobs. Here it is mounted,
and the result.
Planning the carve
I taped up my wood selection paper template for the fretboard, so I could mark off the areas that must remain square-edged until the FB is glued on.
Then I roughly chalked the edges of the contours to be carved, based on the CAD, to see them IRL.
Roundovers
I routed roundovers first. I used my thumbnail bit, being careful to stay away from the neck and the FB areas. I had intended to go the full depth of the bit, but decided not to when I saw that I just couldn't get a perfect rout around the horns -- no real router support there, so I was getting some ripples that could be un-fixable if the bit was at full depth. So I routed most of the way down and stopped.
No pics of it at this point. But it is just amazing how the bass becomes alive after the roundover! Enough to make me think, maybe I should leave this with just roundovers.
But, nope.
Carving!
I re-chalked the edges of the material to be removed. Then I got out the shovels and rakes and implements of destruction (if anyone gets that reference
) and got to carving. Here's an in-progress shot.I am learning about carving as I go at it. The affects of grain direction, of the effect of the waviness of the walnut, the dangers of doing "spot work, " etc. The necessity of pausing to step back and take a broader view. I got a rough carve on the bass side wing, and will do more on it today along with doing the treble side.
Here's where it is now.
I think it is starting to look great with those bevels, which makes me think that maybe I should just do the whole thing in bevels. But, nope. I think in the end it will have this kind of flat bevel planes, but with nice rounded transitions at the edges. I could also go with no flats at a all, more like Ritter, but I don't think so.
I love these threads!
Side note: when I read the thread title, is it odd that I wondered if this thread was about the aftermath of a trip to Taco Bell?
Side note: when I read the thread title, is it odd that I wondered if this thread was about the aftermath of a trip to Taco Bell?
I look forward to the updates on this thread more than any other. Really cool stuff.
I know it's somewhere back in the thread, but is this going to get a belly or forearm contour at all to expose a broader swath of those veneers or are you going to keep it understated the way it is now?
I know it's somewhere back in the thread, but is this going to get a belly or forearm contour at all to expose a broader swath of those veneers or are you going to keep it understated the way it is now?
Thanks and thanks.
Trevor...it's a reference to the name of the bass, and secondarily to brewing beer. Any suggestion of what you said is entirely in your head.
DCat...yeah, WNEW-FM always played the song every Thanksgiving as a tradition. It's a pretty hilarious 18 minute song, as well as an interesting remnant of the counterculture of fifty years ago.
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More carving
Here's the result of some more sculpting today.
I had to carve the treble horn more than I intended, because there was a void in the blue layer resulting from the undersized template problem. So I had to cut back until I hit the full layer. This resulted in it looking a little too much like Fodera's treble horn, from the back. That's a problem not only because of the copying thing, but because I'm not a fan of their horn design. However, on looking at the pic, I think I have a workable solution. Maybe tonight.
I'm also finding that once you get down to refining curves, wenge can cause some difficulties due to the grain layers being hard and soft. Using a smooth stroke with even pressure can still result in a warped line or lumpy contour instead of a smooth curve.
Trevor...it's a reference to the name of the bass, and secondarily to brewing beer. Any suggestion of what you said is entirely in your head.
DCat...yeah, WNEW-FM always played the song every Thanksgiving as a tradition. It's a pretty hilarious 18 minute song, as well as an interesting remnant of the counterculture of fifty years ago.
__________________________________________
More carving
Here's the result of some more sculpting today.
I had to carve the treble horn more than I intended, because there was a void in the blue layer resulting from the undersized template problem. So I had to cut back until I hit the full layer. This resulted in it looking a little too much like Fodera's treble horn, from the back. That's a problem not only because of the copying thing, but because I'm not a fan of their horn design. However, on looking at the pic, I think I have a workable solution. Maybe tonight.
I'm also finding that once you get down to refining curves, wenge can cause some difficulties due to the grain layers being hard and soft. Using a smooth stroke with even pressure can still result in a warped line or lumpy contour instead of a smooth curve.
Thanks, wraub. I'm finding I may have to take a half-round file and heat and bend it in order to deal with those contours inside the horns.
Updates
Magnets: This is getting frustrating. They were tracked as being through the local USPS sorting facility and then "out for delivery" on July 5. After that, they disappeared. There were never even claimed to have been any delivery attempts. I'm thinking some post office employee or their kid has a lot of little magnets to play with.
I filed an Amazon claim with the vendor; the vendor is following up with the USPS, and I assume will file a claim with them; and I assume the vendor will send me a new shipment, as they said they want a satisfied customer. They were notified on Thursday.
Fretboard CNC: I nailed down some details with the vendor today, who has already done some of his CAM work. The board should be going "under the knife" soon. I'm excited!
Build general: When I get this back, I'm going to have to glue up an already-radiused fretboard, which I'm not used to. I'm looking for any tips on firm clamping without marring the surface. I'm starting a new thread for that, so that it will be searchable for people later.
Updates
Magnets: This is getting frustrating. They were tracked as being through the local USPS sorting facility and then "out for delivery" on July 5. After that, they disappeared. There were never even claimed to have been any delivery attempts. I'm thinking some post office employee or their kid has a lot of little magnets to play with.
I filed an Amazon claim with the vendor; the vendor is following up with the USPS, and I assume will file a claim with them; and I assume the vendor will send me a new shipment, as they said they want a satisfied customer. They were notified on Thursday.
Fretboard CNC: I nailed down some details with the vendor today, who has already done some of his CAM work. The board should be going "under the knife" soon. I'm excited!
Build general: When I get this back, I'm going to have to glue up an already-radiused fretboard, which I'm not used to. I'm looking for any tips on firm clamping without marring the surface. I'm starting a new thread for that, so that it will be searchable for people later.
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