bassman314
I seem to be a verb, an evolutionary process...
Fixed the backside end of the treble horn, so the blue and wenge line make it more a smaller version of the front side. No more pointyness.
Those laminates are really starting to pop.
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There's another storm brewing!
- Thread starter pilotjones
- Start date
Those laminates are really starting to pop.
Yeah, but they status updated it as "sorted" twice, then "out for delivery." So I suppose it could be stuck in the truck somewhere...
Yeah, I'm getting excited. Enough that I force myself to stand back and take it easy so that I won't over carve it and make it too odd, like those yellow/blue ply Ritters. I want to balance showing the cool layers with maintaing a graceful, integrated, not-over-the-top overall impression. I would want someone seeing it for the first time to think "beautiful shape, " followed by "with cool details, " rather than seeing it and thinking "STRIPES!!"
__________________________________________
Parts in
I got some more parts today.
For reference, these are Gotoh GB350s like I used on SK1, but this time I got them in the X-Chrome finish instead of the X-Nickel finish. These are between neutral and maybe a slight bluish cast, as opposed to the nickels which have a distinct yellowish cast, and are also little darker. Here's a pic of one of the new chromes laid in amongst the nickels on SK1's headstock. You can't really judge apples-to-apples by the tuner buttons because of the different angles, but you can see it pretty well on the main body casings.
A little under two years and a couple of hundred gigs later, it's doing fine. Thanks for asking.
I started writing something up here, but I'll put it onto that thread, instead.
I do like the blue-ish chrome better than the nickel-ish chrome. It certainly matches other chrome hardware better. I also really like the keys/buttons on the 350s and 707s.
I applaud Gotoh for offering tuners in varying finishes, but it would be really nice if they also sold knobs, bridges, strap buttons, and switches with the same finish options. Also, I really wish they'd offer a copper or bronze finish, bright or antiqued would be fine.
I applaud Gotoh for offering tuners in varying finishes, but it would be really nice if they also sold knobs, bridges, strap buttons, and switches with the same finish options. Also, I really wish they'd offer a copper or bronze finish, bright or antiqued would be fine.
I like the design of the 350/707 buttons, too. They go great with the body shapes I like, and they're good ergonomically.
Now that I think of it, the x-nickel tuners on SK1 may have yellowed a bit since they were installed. Gotoh's website says they may fade to a vintage appearance, which I had forgotten about, but which I'm fine with.
Yes, it would be nice if Gotoh offered their bridges and pins in the X-platings, though. I like the finish on the tuners, and it doesn't show fingerprints much, which would be nice on a bridge.
Interesting, Gotoh has their own strap lock system. I never noticed that before.
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I just got a short video of the completed prototype fretboard -- the CNC program run on a piece of cheap wood. If anyone's interested, I'll host it and post it.
Now that I think of it, the x-nickel tuners on SK1 may have yellowed a bit since they were installed. Gotoh's website says they may fade to a vintage appearance, which I had forgotten about, but which I'm fine with.
Yes, it would be nice if Gotoh offered their bridges and pins in the X-platings, though. I like the finish on the tuners, and it doesn't show fingerprints much, which would be nice on a bridge.
Interesting, Gotoh has their own strap lock system. I never noticed that before.
____________________________________________
I just got a short video of the completed prototype fretboard -- the CNC program run on a piece of cheap wood. If anyone's interested, I'll host it and post it.
Yeah, they look pretty clean. The black ones show fingerprints pretty badly.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/...ork/014-Paradigm6/headstock_5_zps5a276b5a.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/...ork/014-Paradigm6/headstock_5_zps5a276b5a.jpg
This Just In
I got a wonderful package in the mail today.
Test board, and clamping caul formed to the negative of the fretboard radius.
End view of test board, showing how the radius is blended back out to flat at the "wings" so that the board wouldn't get too thin.
The real board, and pup covers, in place on the body/neck.
The pup covers are lighter. I believe this is because of some face sanding that was done when cleaning up the edges. I am finding that wege can act oddly that way when it is near flatsawn. The main FB should also lighten up when sanded.
The extra material was left at the sides of the actual fretboard so that it can serve as the template for routing the pickup cavities. I will test it on scrap first, and if I'm not able to rout cleanly with the radius there and all, I still have the option to use the test board as a template to rout the clamping caul, and then place the clamping caul over the glued FB and body to rout the pup cavities.
Wet down a bit, a preview of the fret markers.
Rather than do a double mark at the twelfth fret, I brought up the orange from one level down. Same at the twenty-fourth fret, once that is revealed after routing.
________ [ edit ] ________
That deserved a brew.
This is the first Great Lakes I've had that I wouldn't give at least a ★★★★☆. Most of it is good, but there a bitter-hoppy finish that shouldn't be there in a Pilsener. Like if you went into the studio with a P bass, and it sounded J-bridge-y. I'd give it a 3.5.
I got a wonderful package in the mail today.
Test board, and clamping caul formed to the negative of the fretboard radius.
End view of test board, showing how the radius is blended back out to flat at the "wings" so that the board wouldn't get too thin.
The real board, and pup covers, in place on the body/neck.
The pup covers are lighter. I believe this is because of some face sanding that was done when cleaning up the edges. I am finding that wege can act oddly that way when it is near flatsawn. The main FB should also lighten up when sanded.
The extra material was left at the sides of the actual fretboard so that it can serve as the template for routing the pickup cavities. I will test it on scrap first, and if I'm not able to rout cleanly with the radius there and all, I still have the option to use the test board as a template to rout the clamping caul, and then place the clamping caul over the glued FB and body to rout the pup cavities.
Wet down a bit, a preview of the fret markers.
Rather than do a double mark at the twelfth fret, I brought up the orange from one level down. Same at the twenty-fourth fret, once that is revealed after routing.
________ [ edit ] ________
That deserved a brew.
This is the first Great Lakes I've had that I wouldn't give at least a ★★★★☆. Most of it is good, but there a bitter-hoppy finish that shouldn't be there in a Pilsener. Like if you went into the studio with a P bass, and it sounded J-bridge-y. I'd give it a 3.5.
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Geoff St. Germaine
Commercial User
- Aug 31, 2001
- 6,267
- 302
- Disclosures
- Owner - St. Germaine Guitars
That is truly looking fantastic, PJ! I really like the curvy pickups!
I'm also curious about how Kent Armstrong has been to deal with for custom pickups. There are a few things I'm looking at that need some custom work.
I'm also curious about how Kent Armstrong has been to deal with for custom pickups. There are a few things I'm looking at that need some custom work.
The small details like the fretboard markers are not what "makes this build" per se, but damn if they don't seriously enhance it. There's a ton about this axe to love. I can't wait to see it completed.
Hopkins
Commercial User
What is the test board made of? I would be tempted to use it on something if it is of suitable material. It definitely doesn't look bad.
@Brett Zeppelin Thanks!
@Hopkins The test board is poplar. In this case, fully "flatsawn" so it looks nice there. Easy to cut, for a CNC program check. But I'm sure I don't need to tell you how unsuitable it is for a fretboard. I did use poplar for the back of SK1. There I used a nicely multicolored piece, and deliberately hit it with some sunlight to reduce the greens and purples from the outset.
@Hopkins The test board is poplar. In this case, fully "flatsawn" so it looks nice there. Easy to cut, for a CNC program check. But I'm sure I don't need to tell you how unsuitable it is for a fretboard. I did use poplar for the back of SK1. There I used a nicely multicolored piece, and deliberately hit it with some sunlight to reduce the greens and purples from the outset.
I'm starting to think about how to fab those curvy pickups. I don't think it's going to be easy. I've got the unusual outside shape, plus I'm going to have exposed polepieces, plus the tops are already radiused and thus tough to work with. I'm glad I've got the test pieces to work on.
Why not use individual coil for each string? You can mount them in any shape pickup. PM if interested, I can make those coils for you.
The pup cavities you cut out of the board look like they could fit a single coil and a humbucker that are angled. You'd just have to make a housing that fits, no?
Hopkins
Commercial User
I see, from the pictures it looks like it could have possibly been made of maple. Yeah, I wouldn't use poplar as a fretboard.
Thanks - I've already got the pickups for this though. I had to figure out the pups form-wise before I could proceed with the fretboard machining, or putting the wiring channels into the body.
Yep - "just have to make a housing."
The housings are fully planned as far as their form, I just have to figure all the machining steps to make that happen. As well as purchase the threaded inserts I was planning on. The radius on the face of the shell complicates things, but it should work out OK.
