My apologies for not reading this all the way through (although I read quite a bit of this last year), but this end up being a finished instrument? I really dig that you went bananas on the Wood Stratigraphy!
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There's another storm brewing!
- Thread starter pilotjones
- Start date
Stratigraphy, nice. (Checks wikipedia) I think we can call it xylostratigraphy, to differentiate from lithostratigraphy.
If you check the last couple of pages, I'm slogging through finishing.
As far as that goes, I think if I force myself to work on it for at least an hour each day, I may be able get through this without throwing my hands in the air, saying eff this, and sanding it all back and doing an oil finish.
If you check the last couple of pages, I'm slogging through finishing.
As far as that goes, I think if I force myself to work on it for at least an hour each day, I may be able get through this without throwing my hands in the air, saying eff this, and sanding it all back and doing an oil finish.
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@pilotjones - Sir, if I may...
While I feel I must commend you for your perhaps overarching attention to detail, and similarly congratulate you on the absolute attempt to capture the ephemeral in the physicality of your design, I also feel that I must most humbly beseech you to devote said diurnal hour to the widely anticipated realization of this most enthralling musical creation.
This, good Sir, must happen. Please do not disappoint the assembled horde.
...Also, I'm pretty sure this is the first time I have used the word "beseech" in a communicative context.
Have to say...
Feels pretty good.
While I feel I must commend you for your perhaps overarching attention to detail, and similarly congratulate you on the absolute attempt to capture the ephemeral in the physicality of your design, I also feel that I must most humbly beseech you to devote said diurnal hour to the widely anticipated realization of this most enthralling musical creation.
This, good Sir, must happen. Please do not disappoint the assembled horde.
...Also, I'm pretty sure this is the first time I have used the word "beseech" in a communicative context.
Have to say...
Feels pretty good.
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Thanks, people.
Yeah I've got to finish this. When I started it, it was pretty unique to be using custom Nordstrands; now not only are all the luthiers using them, but you can get Nordys stock on an Ibanez.
Beseech? You're into swedish pop goth metal?
I'm finding that, at least as shown by wiping with a heavy wetting of denatured alcohol, there is a visible difference between the areas with no epoxy on the surface and those with a heavier skim coat. So I'm going over the whole thing to thin out the thicker areas.
This opens up a few more pores occasionally (dagnabbit!). I got a new container of medium CA and some thin tips, and just tried filling some pores with it. We'll see how it comes out. I have some concern since I found that CA darkened maple noticeably. I'll see on the wenge first, and then try on the walnut if it's OK on the wenge.
Im also starting to look into decals and such for a logo. I liked the effect I got on the previous bass with the color laser / iron / transfer method, but that was on a light colored wood. I tried using the same material (red/brown printing) on some bare wenge, and it was not very visible. A lighter color may or may not work. Also, I don't know how the epoxy fill might react to the heat required, so doing this would require a test piece with epoxy, and more testing.
This opens up a few more pores occasionally (dagnabbit!). I got a new container of medium CA and some thin tips, and just tried filling some pores with it. We'll see how it comes out. I have some concern since I found that CA darkened maple noticeably. I'll see on the wenge first, and then try on the walnut if it's OK on the wenge.
Im also starting to look into decals and such for a logo. I liked the effect I got on the previous bass with the color laser / iron / transfer method, but that was on a light colored wood. I tried using the same material (red/brown printing) on some bare wenge, and it was not very visible. A lighter color may or may not work. Also, I don't know how the epoxy fill might react to the heat required, so doing this would require a test piece with epoxy, and more testing.
- Aug 25, 2004
- 938
- 1,336
- Disclosures
- Builder: Martin Keith Guitars
Hey Martin, when it's finished I will be sure to bring it up your way. I've got the pore filling to where I think it's ready for the clearcoat, using CA for the remaining pores. Lots of work with a dental pick to clean them out first, though. So the next step is fretting, since it will have a finished fretboard, like a Ric or a maple-FB Fender, and the slots are already cut and are blind at the edges. But I've had health problems involving my dominant hand for several weeks now, so I haven't done any work on it.
PJ, I've enjoyed your builds and your manner of telling their stories. Sorry to hear about your hand trouble. I have experienced some before, and know that for someone who relates to the world through his hands it can be a difficult thing. I hope that it clears up -- take care of yourself.
-Mark
Fretting question
I'm trying to do some work again. I tried using my crowning tool (diamond abrasive "file") to take the sprayed finish off one of the two frets on my test piece. I haven't got it all the way to a polish yet, but the remaining finish alonside the fret is partially peeled off and partially looking like a complete mess. The question is this - what does it look / how does it react when you people do it? Is this because I have a a sprayed automotive finish rather than say nitro? Or because I am dumb enough to try this over a very dark wood, which hides nothing? Or will the scuffed finish magically disappear once I finish polishing out?
I'm trying to do some work again. I tried using my crowning tool (diamond abrasive "file") to take the sprayed finish off one of the two frets on my test piece. I haven't got it all the way to a polish yet, but the remaining finish alonside the fret is partially peeled off and partially looking like a complete mess. The question is this - what does it look / how does it react when you people do it? Is this because I have a a sprayed automotive finish rather than say nitro? Or because I am dumb enough to try this over a very dark wood, which hides nothing? Or will the scuffed finish magically disappear once I finish polishing out?
Sorry, no advice from me. But very glad to hear you're back on this!
Hopkins
Commercial User
After crowning, I usually go over the fret with 600 grit up to 2000 grit followed by polishing with Mothers Aluminum polish. That usually gets the remaining finish off of the frets.
Means2nEnd
Supporting Member
Just for me I think it is always a good idea to get a super new Xacto blade and cut in at either sides of each fret at about a 45 degree angle gently when I have sprayed or hand applied finishes on fretboards right over the frets before I level, crown, and polish. I have had finish "tear" away and that sucks like major you know whats.
I went from P400 up to 2000 (and boy I hate having to negotiate the P and non-P grit lines) and it looks not too bad. Pretty shinyThe problems are accentuated by it being a non-perfect test piece that invited extra finish pooling up alongside the fret.
Is there anything in particular about Mother's Aluminum? I think I have some Brasso available. Does the Mothers produce less schmutz to get jammed in the crevices?
I'll try that with the remaining fret on the test piece.
Does anyone else do this?
Means2nEnd
Supporting Member
Crimson Custom Guitars "Ben Crow" in the UK it's where I learned it actually
Hopkins
Commercial User
Thumbs Up (test launch successful, now let's send a monkey up in that thing)
Ok, so I did some more work on those two frets on the test piece, including going back and hitting with the crowning tool to start over again from rough a few times.
- I got a decent idea of what it takes to j u s t remove the finish on top, and touch the metal
- The scoring with an X-acto worked better than not scoring
- After trying various things, I was able to work through using just Abralon pads, P500, P1000, P2000, P3000, P4000. I had tried the sandpaper both by hand and set into the crowning tool, but the Abralon was much nicer to work with
- I tried Brasso after the P4000, but it seemed to have no effect
- I tried Meguiar's Swirl Remover after the P4000, and it was frikkin' awesome
- There was no visible gunk left in crevices, unless I discover something tomorrow after it has had a day to totally dry out
- There was no visible scuffed finish over dark wood or over fret
These frets were nickel silver, so at some point I need to throw an EVO fret into something and be sure the same process works.
Ok, so I did some more work on those two frets on the test piece, including going back and hitting with the crowning tool to start over again from rough a few times.
- I got a decent idea of what it takes to j u s t remove the finish on top, and touch the metal
- The scoring with an X-acto worked better than not scoring
- After trying various things, I was able to work through using just Abralon pads, P500, P1000, P2000, P3000, P4000. I had tried the sandpaper both by hand and set into the crowning tool, but the Abralon was much nicer to work with
- I tried Brasso after the P4000, but it seemed to have no effect
- I tried Meguiar's Swirl Remover after the P4000, and it was frikkin' awesome
- There was no visible gunk left in crevices, unless I discover something tomorrow after it has had a day to totally dry out
- There was no visible scuffed finish over dark wood or over fret
These frets were nickel silver, so at some point I need to throw an EVO fret into something and be sure the same process works.
Wow! As the 700th msg on this thread, I'm obviously not the first to say this, but thank you for sharing such an incredible build with so much detail and entertainment along the way!! It took a couple days, but I made it thru it all, and like everyone else, can't wait to see how this comes out both visually & sonically.
As someone just assembling materials for his first build, this thread and the LC in general has been a wealth of knowledge and inspiration.
I think out of everything, your adherence to the "measure twice, cut once" maxim will stick with me the most. I know I'm guilty of sometimes jumping into steps without having thoroughly confirmed that the results will be what I want. Being willing to take days (weeks sometimes?) to see results on test pieces, drawing up flowcharts - great patience is obviously leading to a true masterpiece!
Thanks again, and can't wait til we can all hoist a beer to the Dark Storm's completion!
As someone just assembling materials for his first build, this thread and the LC in general has been a wealth of knowledge and inspiration.
I think out of everything, your adherence to the "measure twice, cut once" maxim will stick with me the most. I know I'm guilty of sometimes jumping into steps without having thoroughly confirmed that the results will be what I want. Being willing to take days (weeks sometimes?) to see results on test pieces, drawing up flowcharts - great patience is obviously leading to a true masterpiece!
Thanks again, and can't wait til we can all hoist a beer to the Dark Storm's completion!
