thin epoxy coating on fretless ebony board - pros and cons ?

[Bob_Ross]

I probably mention this every time this question comes up on TB (which is quite frequently), but I think it's important to remember that the fingerboard on a fretless instrument -- regardless of what type of strings one uses -- is a consumable: Like strings, or batteries, they have a finite lifespan and should be serviced or replaced periodically if one wants the instrument to last forever. That's just part of the cost of owning such an instrument.

 

[Bergerac]

Me, who made up this thread, want to thank you all for your many replies!
I didn't think there would be so much.
I have the feeling the mainstream here goes to - leave the newly sanded ebony fingerboard as is (and try flats).

Please continue commenting, I enjoy the various experiences and opinions a lot!

 

[ardgedee]

I have the same feeling, ebony is not ebony.

Ebony IS ebony. There's just a lot of different kinds of ebony. The deep black, nearly grainless wood people usually associate with ebony (and which is used on Violin family instruments) is typically either one of the endangered varieties or is a non-endangered variety that's been dyed. There are varying levels of hardness and other characteristics that can make them feel different, but they're all true ebony.

 

[jimmydean]

If you do it well If you don't

 

[rogerb]

It changes the tone, maybe try his epoxied fretless to see if you like it.

Oh and you may need to adjust the neck pocket depth or string height unless is is really thin coating. A really thin coating would wear through fast with round, flats probably last years. I wouldn't bother, try it without first and see if you like the tone.

I have an epoxied one, thick coating though, almost as high as a fret would be with tape wounds. Rounds ate it up and it needed yearly maintenance.

 

[subtlestew]

 

[Low Main]

Also worth noting that epoxy is not a generic product. There are many different types, and the better grade products are formulated to provide specific working and cured properties.

Twin tube injector convenience epoxy from the hardware store will not provide the same level of cured properties as a marine or aerospace formula for example.

Some high grade epoxies are formulated as adhesives; others are formulated as penetrants or surface coatings, etc.

The better the epoxy you use, the longer the fingerboard coating will likely last. Proper metering and mixing is also critical.

Also, nut height and action play a role. The higher the nut slots and action, the more effort you have to put into playing, and the quicker a board coating will likely wear. The epoxied fretless I play the most has low nut slots and action and is strung with older Thomastik flats. The board has worn very little to date and has a nice growl.

If I was doing a thickly built epoxy coating, I'd still apply a low viscosity penetrating coat to begin with.

If I was using an epoxy product for the first time, I'd do one or two small batch test mixes on scrap before committing to the actual workpiece to get a feel for how it handles and cures.

 

[WayneP]

I’m surprised by how few have mentioned that an epoxy (or polyurethane or whatever) coating will drastically change the tone of the instrument.

I can give a pretty good example. I used to have a Pedulla Thunderbass that I had converted to fretless. It had an ebony fretboard. I considered coating, but decided to keep it “natural.” You can hear me playing that bass in the Soundcloud link below.

In the Youtube link you’ll find a Pedulla Pentabuzz, which has a coated fretboard. I’m not 100% positive, but I think the Thunderbass and Buzz electronics were the same, or at least close to it.

Notice that the non-coated Thunderbass ‘board has a more mellow sound, while the coated Pentabuzz ‘board has more “bite.”





Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
Official Pedulla Club #45
Administrator, Official Heartfield Club #36
Administrator, Official Tobias Club #133
Administrator, Official Pre-Gibson Tobias Owners Club
Administrator, Fretless Club #943
Big Cabs Club #23
My Basses
My Rig: Stage and FOH Friendly
Make Your Own Cables: A How-To Guide

 

[Passinwind]

Me, who made up this thread, want to thank you all for your many replies!
I didn't think there would be so much.
I have the feeling the mainstream here goes to - leave the newly sanded ebony fingerboard as is (and try flats).

Please continue commenting, I enjoy the various experiences and opinions a lot!

Epoxy can also be infused (with heat and vacuum) rather than used as a surface coating. I have a bass with an infused purpleheart board and you still can see open pored grain surface. It’s coming up on six years old and has yet to need any touch up at all. I’ve always used pressurewounds on it, FWIW. Personally, I want mwah on demand and not necessarily all that much of the time, and don’t especially dig buzz per se. This bass delivers that easily, but so does my other fretless with a natural ebony board. Setup has plenty to do with this though, and I tend not to go super low on action.

 

[groovepump]

I had a nice G&L L2000 fretless years back, and used flats on it. Someone at a music store said si should try rounds, and they wouldn't
hurt ebony fingerboards. I tried the rounds. First time use, they started putting scratches in an otherwise virgin fingerboard.