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Thinking of building a Warmoth bass? Ask here.

NOT to take anything away from this (useful) thread...but there are answers to many questions on almost any aspect of building a Warmoth bass at: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/ . Half the fun of a build is performing one's due diligence for varied areas of the build. The other half is (of course) the satisfaction one derives from a well crafted bass project that looks and sounds like a million $$$ :smug:

Looked there first, no luck, then found this thread. Sorry. Shouldn't have been seeking Warmoth info on this thread. "My bad", as the kids say.
 
Good idea for a thread Doug. I have a Gecko wide 5. I used an ABM bridge (the one that resembles the Hipshot A) and from the beginning I've not been able to set the intonation perfectly. Then I see the pics of Geckos with the Kahler 7450 and I wonder if they are routed and set on an angle to compensate. Anyway Warmoth says they discontinued use of the Kahler because its design changed 3x's since they started with them, up to the present. I wonder if there is a template for the rout, and are you aware of one?
 
Good idea for a thread Doug. I have a Gecko wide 5. I used an ABM bridge (the one that resembles the Hipshot A) and from the beginning I've not been able to set the intonation perfectly. Then I see the pics of Geckos with the Kahler 7450 and I wonder if they are routed and set on an angle to compensate. Anyway Warmoth says they discontinued use of the Kahler because its design changed 3x's since they started with them, up to the present. I wonder if there is a template for the rout, and are you aware of one?

Not that I know of. I use hipshot exclusively
 
Warmoth Deluxe V neck heels are too narrow for 19 mm in my opinion. Spike@Warmoth said the Deluxe V is a 17.5 spec'd item, however I have used both 17.5 AND 18mm bridges (Hipshot A) with great results. Choose the bridge that gives you the spacing you desire. The neck itself isn't any narrower for a 17.5 or 18 or 19 for that matter, so there isn't a "17.5 neck" per se. The bridge spacing and the neck/nut width are the variables that determine spacing at both ends of the neck.
I am preparing to build a fretless Deluxe5, angled headstock, Nordstrand P/J and the Hipshot A-Style 17.5mm brass bridge.
17.5mm (11/16") is the string spacing for my Stingray5, which I want to match.
Warmoth does not sell this bridge, so it must be found elsewhere.
Hipshot is VERY proud of this bridge, cuz they charge just under $150 for it. I have not found an online source yet.

John@Warmoth says the angled headstock provides a tighter B-string than does the Fender style headstock.
Angled does not require a string retainer, where the Fender style does.

My recently arrived Strat 12-string is fabulous quality.
Warmoth did the black-red-yellow burst for me, and the finish is every bit as high quality as my SR5HH.
I expected the dual steel rod neck to be heavy, but it is not.

Warmoth will located the bridge J pickup closer to the bridge for what they call a '70s location.
This is an extra fee, but I do not yet understand what this does.
 
I am preparing to build a fretless Deluxe5, angled headstock, Nordstrand P/J and the Hipshot A-Style 17.5mm brass bridge.
17.5mm (11/16") is the string spacing for my Stingray5, which I want to match.
Warmoth does not sell this bridge, so it must be found elsewhere.
Hipshot is VERY proud of this bridge, cuz they charge just under $150 for it. I have not found an online source yet.

John@Warmoth says the angled headstock provides a tighter B-string than does the Fender style headstock.
Angled does not require a string retainer, where the Fender style does.

My recently arrived Strat 12-string is fabulous quality.
Warmoth did the black-red-yellow burst for me, and the finish is every bit as high quality as my SR5HH.
I expected the dual steel rod neck to be heavy, but it is not.

Warmoth will located the bridge J pickup closer to the bridge for what they call a '70s location.
This is an extra fee, but I do not yet understand what this does.

Tonally you mean? Thats a question that might illicit various responses from different opinions, but I think it puts more emphasis on some higher midrange frees, kinda like shifting the voice of the bass a little higher while the neck location does what it does normally.

I'd like to have a 70's Jazz V in my stable, but overall prefer a 60's if I had to choose one over the other.

Hipshot A style bridge in a 17.5 MM will bolt on perfectly to the body if you specify that bolt pattern option when purchasing the body. I have a G5 body (going up on the classifieds soon) that has the 17.5mm option with string through body option. It's like having a Stingray with different pickup configuration.
 
Warmoth will located the bridge J pickup closer to the bridge for what they call a '70s location. This is an extra fee, but I do not yet understand what this does.

60's Fender Jazz bridge pu is located father away from the bridge. 70's Jazz pu is closer to the bridge. About 1/4" +/- difference. Ergo the references to 60's and 70's pickup spacing for jazz basses. The 70's spacing will give the bridge pu a bit less bass and more upper mids and treble vs the classic 60's tone. Different flavors of gooood. HTH.
 
I originally wanted the TAK-5 bridge, but Warmoth tells me they are 'scarce' and out of business. Bummer.
The Hipshot-A is solid brass, and offers string-through.
The online builder has an option for this bridge with string-through routing.

My current J-fretless is a 2000 MIM, DiMarzio Model J DP123 pickups installed in the standard position.
For the Deluxe 5 I will probably opt for the closer 70's bridge proximity.

The bass is intended to be bright, with a hard maple body and ebony board.
 
I'm planning on taking my time with my Warmoth build, trying to save money but still want a fun project to work on. Anywho, my question is are the Jazz bass necks going to be a direct fit on my MIM 2005 Deluxe active Jazz bass? I want to build a fretless, but I want to have a fretless now, so I figure I can get the neck built first, pop it on my J I am not using currently then save up and build the rest and then put the neck on the new body. Are they a spot for spot fit?
 
I'm looking at building a gecko out of one of their showcase bodies but they're all drilled for their Takeuchi bridge. Do you have any experience with that bridge? Is it possible to fit a hipshot into that rout?

If it's a 19mm Takeuchi, it's possible to get the 19mm Hipshot A-style (string-through) on there with just a little modification. I've done it and it worked out great. However, if you want to use the through-holes, you have to plug and re-drill the mounting holes as they will overlap by about half the screw diameter when the Hipshot's through-holes are keyed to the Takeuchi's through-holes. Use a maple dowel to plug the mounting holes. So far, I haven't had any trouble intonating, so the location is fine.

I bought the 1" long ferrules from Carvin and installed those in place of the little stubby ferrules that Warmoth sells.

I made a bunch of other mods to mine, which I'd be happy to post when it's complete. Currently waiting on a John East U-Retro and a set of Hipshot Ultralights.
 
I'm planning on taking my time with my Warmoth build, trying to save money but still want a fun project to work on. Anywho, my question is are the Jazz bass necks going to be a direct fit on my MIM 2005 Deluxe active Jazz bass? I want to build a fretless, but I want to have a fretless now, so I figure I can get the neck built first, pop it on my J I am not using currently then save up and build the rest and then put the neck on the new body. Are they a spot for spot fit?

The MIM's are 20 fret necks, pretty sure, so thats going to be the 1 st criteria that needs to match. The specs for the heel dimensions are on the Warmoth site. Pop your neck off and measure to be sure it's a match. I suspect the Fender heel depth will be slightly different than Warmoths bodies (that match the neck you want) This means the neck will sit higher or lower in the pocket than your current neck, requiring other adjustments.


I used Warmoth's Deluxe V necks on my Fender American Deluxe body before, and this was the case. Warmoth necks work best with Warmoth bodies.
 
The MIM's are 20 fret necks, pretty sure, so thats going to be the 1 st criteria that needs to match. The specs for the heel dimensions are on the Warmoth site. Pop your neck off and measure to be sure it's a match. I suspect the Fender heel depth will be slightly different than Warmoths bodies (that match the neck you want) This means the neck will sit higher or lower in the pocket than your current neck, requiring other adjustments.


I used Warmoth's Deluxe V necks on my Fender American Deluxe body before, and this was the case. Warmoth necks work best with Warmoth bodies.

Ahhh, thanks for the input. I might just wait until I get the whole thing built then, I'd rather not go through the hassle.
 
Good idea for a thread Doug. I have a Gecko wide 5. I used an ABM bridge (the one that resembles the Hipshot A) and from the beginning I've not been able to set the intonation perfectly. Then I see the pics of Geckos with the Kahler 7450 and I wonder if they are routed and set on an angle to compensate. Anyway Warmoth says they discontinued use of the Kahler because its design changed 3x's since they started with them, up to the present. I wonder if there is a template for the rout, and are you aware of one?

I built 2 Geckos and the first used the Kahler bridge.
  • Strike 1) I had everything for the bass in my hands, but was kept waiting because Warmoth couldn't get the bridge from Kahler.
  • Strike 2) The Kahler is designed such that you have to loosen the string to adjust its height -- makes setup a bear.
  • Strike 3) The set screws for securing each saddle/setting intonation pass RIGHT under the string, so again, you have to fully loosen the string before you adjust intonation, loosen the set screws, move the saddle, tighten the set screws, tune the string, check intonation, repeat...
My next Gecko did NOT have the Kahler on it. I liked my Geckos, but that bridge drove me NUTS....
 
Ugh what a nightmare. Hipshot is the only bridge I use for exactly those reasons, total ease of adjustment.



I built 2 Geckos and the first used the Kahler bridge.
  • Strike 1) I had everything for the bass in my hands, but was kept waiting because Warmoth couldn't get the bridge from Kahler.
  • Strike 2) The Kahler is designed such that you have to loosen the string to adjust its height -- makes setup a bear.
  • Strike 3) The set screws for securing each saddle/setting intonation pass RIGHT under the string, so again, you have to fully loosen the string before you adjust intonation, loosen the set screws, move the saddle, tighten the set screws, tune the string, check intonation, repeat...
My next Gecko did NOT have the Kahler on it. I liked my Geckos, but that bridge drove me NUTS....