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Thinking of building a Warmoth bass? Ask here.

#21
Why would a .750 2TEK bridge be an option on a Deluxe 5 but a 19mm Hipshot A or other similarly spaced bridge pose a problem? Totally baffled by that one, or maybe just reading too much into what Warmoth chose to include (and exclude) on their Website. Frustrated, too, 'cause I'd choose a Deluxe 5 over a Gecko in a heartbeat if I knew I could have 19mm/.750 spacing with adequate space on the fretboard . Any thoughts? Thanks!
 
#22
Warmoth will pre-drill for a Hipshot A style 19mm as far as I know. And a 17.5 mm. But not a 18mm. Which is what Fender uses on their 5 string basses. And given that the Warmoth Deluxe V is based on the Fender overall spec,
THAT to me, makes no sense. 18mm works better than 17.5 or 19mm on those basses, given the neck width. Just my .02
 
#26
madbassplaya said:
Let me clarify what I meant. I don't mean finish as in the finish on the neck and body. I'm asking if I could order a finished body and a finished neck and just bolt it together and put the parts on and it set up fine and play well or is there some last minute magic that needs to go into a build?
Click to expand...

I've built a few basses (not Warmoth); maybe I can fill in a couple blanks here. If the neck is not pre-drilled (it's an option), you'll have to align, clamp, mark and drill for the neck screws. Use a drill press if at all possible. If it is pre-drilled, it may or may not be perfect. You might want to shield the cavity with copper foil. Pickups need to be placed and aligned, marked and drilled for mounting screws. Electronics need to be spec'ed, acquired, mounted to the pickguard, wired and soldered. The pickguard needs to be placed, aligned with the neck, the pickups, and the route, then mounting holes marked and pre-drilled. Screwholes for the bridge are usually pre-drilled (another option). Don't forget to ground the bridge before screwing it down. Press in tuner ferrules, and hope the pre-drilled mounting holes match the tuners you have. Attach the neck, install a top and bottom string, double check the alignment, and tweak as needed. You might need to adjust the depth of the nut slots. It will probably want fret leveling. It may want a shim. Use copious amounts of masking tape throughout all of this.

Any "magic" is in alignment (of the neck, bridge, pickups, and pickguard), and final fret finishing.

Lots of details can be found in the Luthier board here, or look for the "basses for newbies" thread on the Basses board.
 
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#27
ulynch said:
I've built a few basses (not Warmoth); maybe I can fill in a couple blanks here. If the neck is not pre-drilled (it's an option), you'll have to align, clamp, mark and drill for the neck screws. Use a drill press if at all possible. If it is pre-drilled, it may or may not be perfect. You might want to shield the cavity with copper foil. Pickups need to be placed and aligned, marked and drilled for mounting screws. Electronics need to be spec'ed, acquired, mounted to the pickguard, wired and soldered. The pickguard needs to be placed, aligned with the neck, the pickups, and the route, then mounting holes marked and pre-drilled. Screwholes for the bridge are usually pre-drilled (another option). Don't forget to ground the bridge before screwing it down. Press in tuner ferrules, and hope the pre-drilled mounting holes match the tuners you have. Attach the neck, install a top and bottom string, double check the alignment, and tweak as needed. You might need to adjust the depth of the nut slots. It will probably want fret leveling. It may want a shim. Use copious amounts of masking tape throughout all of this.

Any "magic" is in alignment (of the neck, bridge, pickups, and pickguard), and final fret finishing.

Lots of details can be found in the Luthier board here, or look for the "basses for newbies" thread on the Basses board.
Click to expand...

+1
 
#29
dalo320 said:
Does anyone know if Warmoth makes a neck that will fit a 2010 Fender American Standard Precision V?

I'd really like one of their deluxe 5 necks but don't think it will fit... If I ordered one without mounting holes would it be fairly easy for a luthier to attach?
Click to expand...

Look into "standard j bass" Invalid Link Removed

CONFIRM THAT THESE ARE 20 FRET NECKS BEFORE BUYING.

American Standard is 20 fret. American Deluxe is 22 fret (pre 2010 models) post 2010 = 21 frets.

THESE ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE.
 
#34
BassChuck said:
I have a Warmoth walnut jazz body with Mighty Mite neck. I love the sound, but there is a dead spot on the neck. Is it reasonable to assume that Warmoth necks are of a higher quality and will not have a dead spot?
Click to expand...

Dead spots are not a quality issue. They are the nearly unavoidable result of the design and the materials. When you fret a note that's at the same frequency as the neck's resonance, the vibrations tend to cancel. This is affected by mass, length, and density of the neck. Changing any of these variables will change the resonant frequency, and thus the location and severity of the dead spot, but not predictably. The alternative is a neck that isn't resonant at all. You wouldn't like that. It's been discussed here in excruciating detail by people way smarter than me. :D
 
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#35
ulynch said:
Dead spots are not a quality issue. They are the nearly unavoidable result of the design and the materials. When you fret a note that's at the same frequency as the neck's resonance, the vibrations tend to cancel. This is affected by mass, length, and density of the neck. Changing any of these variables will change the resonant frequency, and thus the location and severity of the dead spot, but not predictably. The alternative is a neck that isn't resonant at all. You wouldn't like that. It's been discussed here in excruciating detail by people way smarter than me. :D
Click to expand...

I think the steel rods in the Warmoth necks help move the resonant frequency out of the normal range, or at least greatly lessen the effect. I can't find any dead spots on my Warmoth neck, not even a weak note. Not sure if it's due to the the neck's construction, or my fabulous building skillz... :D

(I would think my Steinberger is the most non-resonant neck I've ever played, but it has no dead spots, and it sounds awesome. Definitely a different sound though. Very pure. Pure awesome!)
 
#39
F-Clef-Jef said:
I think the steel rods in the Warmoth necks help move the resonant frequency out of the normal range, or at least greatly lessen the effect.
Click to expand...

That would be my guess as well. Whatever they are doing, I can't get a neck from those guys that sounds bad. There are varying degrees of good though. Best I had was a birdseye maple/maple. Just thunders with a 34" B string and heavy ash body.
 
#40
I'm interested in a Warmoth 5-string fretless P-J bass later this year.

My first Warmoth project arrived today (Aug 14) and was ordered on July 18.
It is a 12-string Strat so not relevant here, other than the workmanship.

I'm astounded at the quality of the finish work and the packaging material.
This truly gives pride to Made In America.
The Black-Red-Yellow sunburst is the twin brother to my Stingray 5HH.

The neck is surprisingly light, consider their touted metal truss rod system.
I was worried about neck dive, but this is not going to be a problem with a hard rock maple body.

I'm interested in hearing about member experiences with a 5-string P bass.
One important note for me: 17.5mm bridge spacing.
I want the feel to be as close to my SR5HH as possible.
 

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