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Thinning a neck

Combinator

Combinator

Oct 23, 2005
1,439
1,378
Seattle
www.combinatormusic.com
Disclosures
Endorsing Artist: MTD Basses, Bartolini, Genzler Amplification, GHS, Tsunami Cables, Sonic Nuance
#1
I'm curious how you all would go about shaving/thinning down an oil finished bolt on neck. The wood is ovangkol (yep, this would be a Warwick). I'm also curious how your process would differ on a neck through. How would you maintain a consistent profile as you go?
 
#3
The truss rod I'm not so concerned about - I'm more concerned with the reinforcement rods. However, there are cutaways on the Warwick site and I've seen a couple of in store displays of a cut away neck showing the location of all the internals, giving me somewhat of an idea of where they are located.

I think more than just thinning the neck in general, I'm actually more interested in changing the profile to be a flatter C. The overall thickness from fretboard front to neck back isn't bad.
 
#4
Some years ago I bought a Sadowsky NYC sight unseen and did not like the thickness of the neck. My small hands could not deal with it. I spoke with Roger Sadowsky and arranged to send the neck back for thinning. Roger guaranteed that this process would not compromise the tone of the bass. He was right. The neck was returned, refitted and the bass sounds wonderful.
 
#6
Thanks for lending your knowledge!
I have actually carved one from scratch before, but it was 15 years ago and it was the only time I've done it - and I'm sure I didn't do it "right" ;)
How would I transfer the measurements to the neck? And would you use a rasp to start removing wood, or sand it away instead by hand or with an orbital or belt sander with some not-too-heavy paper?
 
#7
I shape my necks with
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product/153777/Shinto-Saw-Rasp-11.aspx
but don't buy it there. I got mine for 32 shipped. I'll try to find the link. It's awesome.
Then I smooth and finish with sandpaper of varying grits.

Combinator said:
Thanks for lending your knowledge!
I have actually carved one from scratch before, but it was 15 years ago and it was the only time I've done it - and I'm sure I didn't do it "right" ;)
How would I transfer the measurements to the neck? And would you use a rasp to start removing wood, or sand it away instead by hand or with an orbital or belt sander with some not-too-heavy paper?
Click to expand...
 
#8
I have a Shinto rasp. I don't much like it. I tend to dig in too hard with it and have to do a lot more cleanup than with my horse rasp and dragon rasp setup.

I definitely prefer more traditional rasps. StewMac's dragon rasps are great for this, but pricy.

If you aren't taking much off, you might start with something not terribly aggressive, like a surform or a cabinetmaker's rasp.
 
#9
Combinator said:
Thanks for lending your knowledge!
I have actually carved one from scratch before, but it was 15 years ago and it was the only time I've done it - and I'm sure I didn't do it "right" ;)
How would I transfer the measurements to the neck? And would you use a rasp to start removing wood, or sand it away instead by hand or with an orbital or belt sander with some not-too-heavy paper?
Click to expand...

Here is a detailed tutorial for neck carving: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. You could use this process and draw your new profile over your old one on paper, then transfer these measurements as the tutorial describes. This is if you are substantially changing your profile, if it's just a small alteration you could just sand and scrape until it feels more comfortable and do it by feel, which is the low tech way often done by first timers.
 
#10
Thank you all. Manton, that tutorial was incredibly useful. I actually didn't know about contour gauges before reading that - what a handy little tool! Also good to know about all of your choices of rasps. I think I'm probably good for the info I was looking for at this point. Thanks again!
 
#11
Here is a trick, get a 6" piece of pvc pipe, 4" or so, cut it in half. If you have a neck with the control you like, boil the pic until it's flexible, (you can use any plastic probably, I actually use old vinyl albums folded , and warm water is all you need to make It flexible. but someone told me pvp pipe works better) press the flexible plastic onto the "good" neck. Put zip lock full of ice on it to freeze it in place. Now you have a contour guide.

Next a shur form planner "(like a cheese grater") or a micro planner , but I like the shur form and shave your neck down til it's close, then wrap the plastic with 60 grit sand paper and sand like bell til it's right. Then sand smooth and oil finish.

There are plenty of ways to go, but I was able to copy a neck contour I liked this way. And it's cheap.
 
#12
HaMMerHeD said:
I have a Shinto rasp. I don't much like it. I tend to dig in too hard with it and have to do a lot more cleanup than with my horse rasp and dragon rasp setup.....
Click to expand...

It was the same with me. I found that, the rough side of the rasp is not very good for shaping. It really is for roughing out the surface, nothing more. And I have little use for it, especially for a neck. I use the finer side now. It's still pretty fast and leaves a smooth surface. Since I switched blade the Shinto has become one of my favorite tools, I just have to be careful when approaching neck heel and scarf.
 
#16
I've found both sides of the rasp work well for me. Best investment I've made in a while.

miziomix said:
It was the same with me. I found that, the rough side of the rasp is not very good for shaping. It really is for roughing out the surface, nothing more. And I have little use for it, especially for a neck. I use the finer side now. It's still pretty fast and leaves a smooth surface. Since I switched blade the Shinto has become one of my favorite tools, I just have to be careful when approaching neck heel and scarf.
Click to expand...
 

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