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This hurts to look at!!

Correct me if I am wrond but isn't the whole point of the horns about balance and accessability? Of course with better balance comes better sustain, right? So really if you have to prep it via sanding the horn and body flat, would upset the previous balance it had, so it would never sound exactly the same. Again, correct me if I am wrong.
 
bigd4207 said:
Correct me if I am wrond but isn't the whole point of the horns about balance and accessability? Of course with better balance comes better sustain, right? So really if you have to prep it via sanding the horn and body flat, would upset the previous balance it had, so it would never sound exactly the same. Again, correct me if I am wrong.

You probably would not sand it. Normally, in woodworking, the best way to fix a crack is to glue it together just like it came apart, each "splinter" laying back where it came from. When you try to clean up the break, it will never fit right again.
 
it's a clean break, looks like it just needs some good glue and should be like new. also, the balance of the instrument has nothing to do with tone. balance affeccts how easy it is to keep it in a comfortable playing position. there is such a thing as tonal balance, often attributed to alder, but that has NOTHING to do with body shape
 
spudmaster34 said:
i was reading through that guy's feedback, someone called st.clares bought 11 items in a row and all the feedback was withdrawn, then later left 13 positives in a row, these 2 people seem to do buissiness together alot... suspicious...
"We have no one to answer emails."
:eyebrow: :eyebrow: :eyebrow: :eyebrow:
 
Hookus said:
You probably would not sand it. Normally, in woodworking, the best way to fix a crack is to glue it together just like it came apart, each "splinter" laying back where it came from. When you try to clean up the break, it will never fit right again.

Yeah I know about the way it breaks and how to repair, I miss read what someone else had said. I thought they were talking about finishing the ends to repair, my fault. Tragedy though, d@mn shame.
 
bigd4207 said:
Correct me if I am wrond but isn't the whole point of the horns about balance and accessability? Of course with better balance comes better sustain, right? So really if you have to prep it via sanding the horn and body flat, would upset the previous balance it had, so it would never sound exactly the same. Again, correct me if I am wrong.

Balance and sustain aren't tied together. You can have a poorly balanced instrument that sustained very well and vice versa.

The upper horn normally doesn't affect accessibility unless you'd normally be reaching over it.
 
Masher88 said:
I always knew that the upper horn on those Ritters looked a bit weak!!!
Still sad, though.:(

+1

I have never seen one in the flesh, but they have never interested me purely because of the skinny horn. I don't think one of those would last 5 minutes in my hands. Hope they sound good...Cos they sure are ugly and weak looking :cool:

Now excuse me while I run for cover :hiding:
 
I recall Jens Ritter talking about his skinny horns, saying that he had tried jumping on one once and was not able to break it. The reason for the skinny horns by the way is weight reduction. If you put the ritter on top of a Fender, you'll see that a lot of the weight is shaved off around the neck -- maybe two pounds.

I have a four that looks a lot like this one (Triplebuckers, wood color) ... if the horn broke off, I would probably have a luthier insert a steel truss rod into both pieces of wood, then glue the wood back together with the inserted rod.
 
westland said:
I recall Jens Ritter talking about his skinny horns, saying that he had tried jumping on one once and was not able to break it. The reason for the skinny horns by the way is weight reduction. If you put the ritter on top of a Fender, you'll see that a lot of the weight is shaved off around the neck -- maybe two pounds.

I have a four that looks a lot like this one (Triplebuckers, wood color) ... if the horn broke off, I would probably have a luthier insert a steel truss rod into both pieces of wood, then glue the wood back together with the inserted rod.

If I were to fix this I would do something simmilar, but I would use a wooden dowel of the same wood to fix it and keep the tonal charactoristics as close to the original as possable.

lowsound
 
Someone just buy it and immediately relist it without even bothering to fix it. Just add what shape the neck and electronics are in and that you do answer e-mails and don't have lousy feedback. You'll probably get at least $2000 even if the neck and electronics also have problems. I'd do that if I were still living in Texas.