Hello, inspired by Scott French's great tutorial on carving a top, I thought it would be a good idea to do a series of several different techniques each of us use for different things. Hopefully this will inspire others in here to post pictorials on the way they do things and in the way help us all do things better or inspire new ideas. This is how I cut a scarf joint: 1) First thing is to mark the victim. I really take my time, generally spend a couple of hours the night before I cut things measuring, marking and then measuring a couple more times. A mistake cutting the neck could ruin an expensive piece of wood (you did get the best wood possible for your neck, didn't you?). I mark the diagonal line using the tool you see below. I cut my scarf at 13 deg. 2) Then I use japanese and german handsaws to 'rough cut' the diagonal line maked on the side of the neck all the way through. I use a caul to help me cut a straight line. It helps, but it is very difficult to get it right by hand. Those who have the equipment can use a bandsaw or tablesaw. Don't sweat it too much if the cut is not straight or too clean as you'll have to level both surfaces later anyway ...might just be a little more work planing if it's not straight. 3) Here you can see that it's very easy to cut an UNEVEN scarf. 4) I got this neck blank wider than needed because I plan to make 2 necks out of it. My supplier doesn't like it, I'll keep him anonymous for his benefit. I cut the scarf first because the neck blank was not wide enough for the headstock of both necks. I'll use another piece of wood for the headstock of the second neck. 5) I marked the thickness of the headstock, the top part will be removed by means of router planing. 6) I've always used a block plane to level the scarf. This is my first wenge neck and it was proving very difficult to do this by hand. So I got lazy and instead of spending the night sweating (it's already too hot in VA) I just cut a couple of pieces of MDF and made a scarf joint jig for my router. I left this to dry overnight and went to watch a movie. 7) The next day I made the router slade and clamped the neck blank and headstock for routing with the new jig. Then routed away. 8) I dry clamp the 2 pieces to test the fit. Not too bad, the jig worked great! 9) Then I glue and clamp and let dry overnight. I use two staples trimmed to leave little studs on the waste side of the blank. This helps align and prevents glue slipping problems. 10) This morning I removed the clamps, scraped a little, and it's done! came out great! Now, who's gonna do the next one?