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Double Bass Thompson RM-200
- Thread starter SoutheastLABass
- Start date
- Oct 12, 2004
- 1,327
- 587
- 72
- Disclosures
- Retailer: Shen, Sun, older European
One major reason why I hardly check in to Talkbass any more, or even more rarely post (it's been 3 months or so until now), are these needless and pointless pissing matches. They are usually started and carried on far too long by one specific forum member. At the very least they are very tone deaf to the needs of the worldwide audience that reads these threads looking for good advice and information. At their worst, they are insulting, belittling, and aggressively belligerent. It serves no purpose at all. We can do much better here. This thread is perfectly awful to read and makes my stomach hurt.
Steve Swan
Steve Swan
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Thanks to all who helped with my Shen and Thompson comparison. Still thinking about stuff. Not sure which way I wanna go and may just hold tight for now anyway. Been reading threads here for years and years even before joinin'. Yeah we sure can do better but Mr. Swan's post sure is the pot callin the kettle black. Time flys when yur havin fun I guess cause it sure ain't been half a year since he posted before.
Let me summarize so we can hopefully move on. In the past, some members have suspected other members of shilling for various companies. Other members have suspected certain other members of trying to direct readers away from certain companies and toward those they are known to prefer. The site admins and moderators have done our best to clean up the mess and to leave these threads open so that people who wish to weigh in with their (hopefully firsthand) experience with bass x, y, z etc. can do so; the hope is that readers of the forum can read to their heart's content about firsthand experience with whatever bass they are currently considering and come to a more informed decision about their purchase.
At this point, I'd like to request that we stipulate the above (admitting that it was unpleasant) and move on, and that we resist the temptation to point fingers and assign blame for past squabbles and focus on the firsthand experiences of people who have played basses x, y, and z so that the forum can be an informative place for those folks shopping for an instrument. The search feature on the new software is excellent, allowing anyone who wishes to do so to revisit past unpleasantness. But moving forward, let's please let sleeping dogs (and cats) lie and refrain from further sniping.
- Oct 12, 2004
- 1,327
- 587
- 72
- Disclosures
- Retailer: Shen, Sun, older European
To clarify and reinforce my post, my objection to this thread has absolutely nothing to do with the subject. It could be a discussion about anything at all. I object to the manner in which the discussion all too typically degenerates into these very uncivil exchanges that serve no purpose whatsoever. it is beyond me why this extremely rude and insulting kind of behavior is allowed to go on year after year. I would expect guitar or trumpet players to roll around in the gutter like this, but not bass players. Nearly all of us are better people than that.
I've posted several times about my experience w/my RM200, here it is again. I purchased mine used in 2010, the label says built in 2008. the original owner had a very positive experience w/his purchase: he purchased it w/a very nice bag, the strings he liked and had it shipped to the nearest airport. It was very securely shipped in a crate, he played it right out of the box. He liked the bass but eventually preferred to stick w/electric bass. I have owned it approx. four years, I live in New England and heat my house w/a wood stove - extreme fluctuations in humidity and temperature, I am also very careful about storing and buffering these extremes. I have yet to have cracks, open seems or extreme wood movement. I have not touched the sound post, I have changed the strings (Obligatos) and tail piece (Marvin). It is a well made, very nice looking instrument, that plays and sounds like a well made $2000.00 hybrid - all the ebony parts are high quality too. My criticism of the instrument has more to do w/my own development as a player. It does not sound like a Prescott, which my teacher has. As a hybrid it lacks a certain sweetness of tone that a fully carved older bass has. It is kind of quiet and has a slightly stiff feel to it playing pizz. The Marvin tailpiece and a wolf tone eliminator cured the wolf tone and softened the playability. I made my own endpin that deepened the tone slightly. I also filed the string nut slots which lowered the string height which also helped the playability. It sounds very good arco. In the time I have owned it, the tone and feel has improved, people call this opening up. My teacher (Julliard, NE Conservatory grad) likes the bass very much. I could probably change the strings, adjust the sound post and have a new bridge cut which might make all the difference in tone, feel etc. My teacher likes Obligatos so I went w/those, I know they can be quiet strings. Lately I am getting a nice growl out of the Obligatos, I may be getting better as a player! I play both classical and jazz and consider myself a beginner, playing less than 10 years. To sum it all up The RM200 is a great $2000.00+ hybrid, that is made well, looks great and plays really well. All new instruments need time to settle in. A qualified luthier is also helpful to make necessary adjustments to maximize the instrument - a brand new bass may or may not need set up work. Upright basses are temperamental by nature as are the players. Some days I love the way my bass sounds some days not so much, every day I wish I could play better!
I sure agree that uncivil discussions are just no good. I knew that was yur objection and not the subject of the thread. Each of us should look in the mirror and see what part we play in exactly what we're complaining about. That includes you- it includes me- it includes a bunch of guys around here. If that happens I think itll be better all around. Ya know I bet if we all got in aroom you'd find that we'd figure each other out and probably leave as friends.
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Have any RM-200 owners replaced the steel endpin with a wooden model? Anything sonic difference to note?
I'm getting ready to have my luthier do a proper setup. The bass experienced a shock during air transport and the bridge arrived about 1/8 - 1/4 inch off place. I did what I could to correct it but want to let a pro put it into proper shape. Obviously the sound post will need coordinated adjustment.
In reading Chuck Traeger's book, I just noticed the nut does not seem quite right. The center-to-center distance from E to G is 11mm, 11mm, and 9.5mm. The E string slot also seems to be cut one or two millimeters to far to the G side, so the strings / bridge / and tailplate are all slightly biased off center toward the G side. The bridge seems ok with center-to-center slot cuts being 26mm, 26mm, and 26 mm. I'm thinking a new nut might be essential for better balance and resonance.
The adjustable bridge came with a Gage Lifeline preinstalled. I removed and sold it, and discovered the bridge was never modified for proper adjustability with the pickup. Nor is it adjustable without the pickup. It's in the lowest position possible with no extra clearance, so that's another issue for the luthier to fix. Overall the bass seems to have "good bones" but I'm disappointed that Steve was not more careful in setting it up.
I'm getting ready to have my luthier do a proper setup. The bass experienced a shock during air transport and the bridge arrived about 1/8 - 1/4 inch off place. I did what I could to correct it but want to let a pro put it into proper shape. Obviously the sound post will need coordinated adjustment.
In reading Chuck Traeger's book, I just noticed the nut does not seem quite right. The center-to-center distance from E to G is 11mm, 11mm, and 9.5mm. The E string slot also seems to be cut one or two millimeters to far to the G side, so the strings / bridge / and tailplate are all slightly biased off center toward the G side. The bridge seems ok with center-to-center slot cuts being 26mm, 26mm, and 26 mm. I'm thinking a new nut might be essential for better balance and resonance.
The adjustable bridge came with a Gage Lifeline preinstalled. I removed and sold it, and discovered the bridge was never modified for proper adjustability with the pickup. Nor is it adjustable without the pickup. It's in the lowest position possible with no extra clearance, so that's another issue for the luthier to fix. Overall the bass seems to have "good bones" but I'm disappointed that Steve was not more careful in setting it up.
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It doesn't look that bad to me... I think the only way most of us can get a setup that is absolutely spot on for the individual is to be there, in the shop while the work is being done. Setup is such a personal thing that I think it's always a good idea to take any newly acquired instrument to your favourite DB luthier to get the fine details dialled in, and to find out if there's anything glaring that we players might not notice...
Yeah, armed with Traeger I'm totally dangerous. I probably shouldn't mention having read the book to a potential luthier as they'll think I will be an PITA. Now my problem is finding a favorite DB luthier. The two I've been using in northern Calif. have retired. One of the non-benefits of living in the sticks....
To address you concerns - 1) I've found that in general, wooden endpins may give a warmer sound, but with less pizz punch and attack than metal or carbon pins.
2) Minor bridge movement as you describe just needs to be corrected by you to the proper place. Make sure the bridge is not leaning forward or back and centered on the inner nicks in the f holes.
3) Yes, you might want a new nut or your nut recut. I'm liking 10cm center to center, but it's up to you. I don't think the sound is going to change, but who knows.
4) If the bridge is all the way down and you need it to be lower, then yes, it needs to be cut. But assuming the adjusters work well now, and you can raise it with no problem, then it was installed correctly, just not with your preferred height in mind. Make sure you check the height after you move your bridge to the proper place.
I know Traeger's ideas get a lot of heat from some folks, but there's a lot of good stuff there too. When you find a luthier you like, consider having a discussion with them about all your concerns and what you've read. A good luthier should be able to have an informative discussion with you about what they see, what they agree and disagree with, and why. There are so many little things to consider and each one of those things may (or may not) impact the others, so it's really important to look at all the options very carefully. Hope it all works out the way you hope!
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