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Thunderbird Club

The problem you’ll run into measuring from the bridge side of the 12th fret wire is that some people will be using a tape measure. If you bump the hook end (dumb end) of the tape measure up against the fret you’ll need to add as much as 1/8th of an inch to the measurement because the tape measure is in compression not tension.
Good point. So I’ll hook on the fret. And as Kara’s pic shows, the tape will start darn near the center of the fret wire. I move that this be the “official”measurement for our chart.
 
I moved to the center of the fretboard to try and center a little better.....the way the hook is on this particular tape measure, it puts the beginning of the measuring portion near the center of the fretwire, it looks like?

View attachment 5130219





.....and it turns out, using a straight-edge that's metal/magnetic is an issue if you need to not hold it :facepalm: , so I found a non-magnetic solution :thumbsup:

View attachment 5130220
View attachment 5130221




Still not perfectly precise, but looks like 11" for the neck p/u, and 14 13/16" for the bridge p/u?






:unsure:
Method looks correct so the data should be good.

The obvious variability in method will be the measuring device. Some folks will use a construction tape measure that may be divided into 1/16” increments which may or may not start at the hook vs a bit away. Construction tape measures usually also have a tension vs compression requirement for accuracy. Miniature household tape measures might not have a slip rivet at the hook end. Some folks may use a wooden or plastic school ruler. Others might use a steel machinist’s rule, and others might use a micrometer, or even a fabric seamstress tape. If we’re shooting for a general reference accuracy of about +-1/8” then the different measuring equipment listed above shouldn’t be an issue and our current data set is adequate as a reference guide.

Its when folks start talking about measuring from the center line of a fret that I start getting nervous, because the current data collected doesn’t reflect that level of accuracy, and any attempt to go forward without a measuring protocol will only make it worse.
 
If Babicz comes in gold that would be awesome! As would a gold VP type bridge.

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:)
 
Method looks correct so the data should be good.

The obvious variability in method will be the measuring device. Some folks will use a construction tape measure that may be divided into 1/16” increments which may or may not start at the hook vs a bit away. Construction tape measures usually also have a tension vs compression requirement for accuracy. Miniature household tape measures might not have a slip rivet at the hook end. Some folks may use a wooden or plastic school ruler. Others might use a steel machinist’s rule, and others might use a micrometer, or even a fabric seamstress tape. If we’re shooting for a general reference accuracy of about +-1/8” then the different measuring equipment listed above shouldn’t be an issue and our current data set is adequate as a reference guide.

Its when folks start talking about measuring from the center line of a fret that I start getting nervous, because the current data collected doesn’t reflect that level of accuracy, and any attempt to go forward without a measuring protocol will only make it worse.
Noted, and no worries! I'm just used to measuring from the center of the 12th fret when working on basses/guitars.
If using a tape measure on an instrument, I usually go from the 1" mark to avoid that variability of the hook.
 
You could always try one of the "N.A.'s". I've had a couple that weren't bad.

I'm sure they've improved. Used to be they were not worth drinking.

I've recently tried a couple NA's from Athletic Brewing. Actually taste quite good and you can't tell they aren't the real deal, aside from not getting a buzz.
 
It is supposed to arrive at the local GC on Monday. I'll unbox there for a thorough inspection. I'll bring an Epi case to make sure it all fits. I read a TB post that said the 2015 list price was close to $2,600.

With the coil taps, I assume with the toggle in the up position you have the humbuckers and in the down position, you have single coil???
I have a PDF from Gibson of a multipage brochure with a complete description, full specs, and multiple photos of the 2015, including the wiring. It was available on-line and maintained for some time on the Gibson Archives page. I can’t find it online now. I assume it has been taken down. PM me your email and I’ll send the PDF to you. It’s very detailed and a must have for any ‘15 owner.
 
I have a PDF from Gibson of a multipage brochure with a complete description, full specs, and multiple photos of the 2015, including the wiring. It was available on-line and maintained for some time on the Gibson Archives page. I can’t find it online now. I assume it has been taken down. PM me your email and I’ll send the PDF to you. It’s very detailed and a must have for any ‘15 owner.
Marshall - if it’s not a problem I wouldn’t mind having that info for my 2015 as well.
 
:laugh:Under freezing here this morning. For all the Fahrenheit lovers, Celsius zero is freezing point.

Edit: remove incorrect brain fade induced rubbish :laugh::laugh:

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The list was about $2400. Gibson closed and sold a warehouse in Nashville in 2015 in an attempt to generate some cash to stave off bankruptcy (Chapter 11 happened in 2018 anyway). Gibson arranged to liquidate the warehouse inventory through GC. During the second and third weeks of October, GC had amazing prices on Gibson Guitars and basses. That included some new Les Pauls and new ‘13, ‘14, and ‘15 Thunderbirds along with other guitars. See my receipt from 10/24/15. A day that is one of the happiest days of my music life.
View attachment 5130145

You could get a ‘15 for around $1200 or so during 2016 as some of them got flipped. But the prices went up and hovered around $1500 or thereabouts until 2020 when they became scarcer and started going for close to 2k or more. Yours at $1450 with only a mark on the headstock (mine has one from a ceiling fan) is a great deal. And it will be more collectible as the years go by.

The switches work like a light switch. Down is off, up is on. Both down is full humbucking mode.

I think you will really enjoy it. I know you like flats, but think about trying stainless rounds on it to bring out all the tone from those pickups.

Edit: The list was $2599.00.

light switches are another thing the US does differently to us. Here you switch it down for on, up for off.
 
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Noted, and no worries! I'm just used to measuring from the center of the 12th fret when working on basses/guitars.
If using a tape measure on an instrument, I usually go from the 1" mark to avoid that variability of the hook.
Irv,
I had zero doubt that you’d know how to do this correctly, I was more concerned with those that follow and input data that isn’t gathered as precisely or in the same way as yours.
 
Under freezing here this morning. For all the Fahrenheit lovers, Celsius zero is freezing point. (Opp to F which if I remember primary school, is set to 100 being boiling point?).

View attachment 5130630



light switches are another thing the US does differently to us. Here you switch it down for on, up for off.


Pretty sure Celsius is the one with 100° boiling point?
Fahrenheit is 32° freezing & (I think) 212° boiling.

Probably? :unsure:
 

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