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Thunderbird Club

Epi VI scarf joint repair in progress:

I’m using G2 epoxy. It’s industrial grade. It gives you 60 minutes of working time.
To aid in glue flow, I warmed the neck with a heat gun, warmed the epoxy a bit in the sun before I started.

The black wire is attached to the back wall. I used it to spread the joint open and shoved epoxy in there as far as I could with a piece of thin cardboard.

Then I released the wire and worked the headstock back and forth for a while , then shoved more epoxy in and worked it back and forth some more.

When I was satisfied it had gotten all the way down, I clamped and cleaned up the excess with vinegar.

The chipped finish is not a problem. I’ll be stripping the neck and applying tung oil.
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and I have a set of black Gotoh tuners, from a Fernandez I scrapped many years ago.

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Curious eBay post - obviously a '64 or '65 but no mention of year. Someone moved the bridge but left it pretty rough. Kind of a hack-job. Non-original pg and tuners don't look original either - they're old but not like my '64 II. Price is reasonable for doing a once-over to get it back in line.

Gibson Thunderbird Ii Refin | eBay

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Then there's this - $14k? really?
Gibson Thunderbird Iv 1967 | eBay
I think you're right about the tuners. This one has finer threads on the tuner key than mine. That These seem pointy or tapered and mine are flat on top of each threat. I'm almost certain.
 
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I think you're right about the tuners. This one has finer threads on the tuner key than mine. That These seem pointy or tapered and mine are flat on top of each threat. I'm almost certain.

Tuner posts on vintage Gibsons and Fenders are Kluson tuners which have less threads on the worm shaft, and have a slotted & drilled post*. That one has more threads and a hole at the top of the post (?) I've never seen that variety - maybe only available in Japan.

* I said "& drilled post" because some slotted posts do not have the central post hole to insert the end of the string in.

My '66 Tempo (MIJ) has stubby fluted posts and no central hole - my solution (works well)
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Epi VI scarf joint repair in progress:

I’m using G2 epoxy. It’s industrial grade. It gives you 60 minutes of working time.
To aid in glue flow, I warmed the neck with a heat gun, warmed the epoxy a bit in the sun before I started.

The black wire is attached to the back wall. I used it to spread the joint open and shoved epoxy in there as far as I could with a piece of thin cardboard.

Then I released the wire and worked the headstock back and forth for a while , then shoved more epoxy in and worked it back and forth some more.

When I was satisfied it had gotten all the way down, I clamped and cleaned up the excess with vinegar.

The chipped finish is not a problem. I’ll be stripping the neck and applying tung oil.
View attachment 5191774 View attachment 5191775

and I have a set of black Gotoh tuners, from a Fernandez I scrapped many years ago.

View attachment 5191776

I don't think you'll go wrong with the industrial epoxy, but as long as the connection of the two pieces is tight - a premium grade wood glue has never failed me. (Titebond products - I don't really like Gorilla glue) It is thinner and soaks into the wood pores creating a strong bond - epoxy tends to sit between the two surfaces. I repaired a composite body/neck Parker Hornet with epoxy because I was dealing with disparate materials. It worked well. But wood-to-wood... I feel wood glue is best.
 
let’s o this!…

70..not bad..

For sure - 66 & partly cloudy (so partly sunny right? - glass half full?) slated for next weekends outdoor BG & TSC gigs at Winters' "Fog Fest" - hey, it's coastal Pacifica... what more can you want? :bassist: :bassist:
 
I don't think you'll go wrong with the industrial epoxy, but as long as the connection of the two pieces is tight - a premium grade wood glue has never failed me. (Titebond products - I don't really like Gorilla glue) It is thinner and soaks into the wood pores creating a strong bond - epoxy tends to sit between the two surfaces. I repaired a composite body/neck Parker Hornet with epoxy because I was dealing with disparate materials. It worked well. But wood-to-wood... I feel wood glue is best.
I agree. I would have gone with Titebond for a crack repair, but this is a scarf joint where the glue has failed. And there's no way to clean the old glue off the surfaces.
 
What time? Late afternoon or early evening could be a bit chilly.

Bond Girl at 4 - Conneries at 6. Hourly weather for both days is consistent - 66 & partly cloudy. As long as it isn't damp or windy - no problems. We're all inside at 7pm.
 
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Well, I had quite the busy day today, my band was booked an afternoon slot at a county fair and directly afterwards I had to attend an art exhibit. So needless to say I was totally burned out afterwards.

The organizer of the exhibit asked me when our next gig was and when I named the date he went "Uh, you do realize that's also when the next exhibit will be, right?"
Rocking the Vera.jpg

Anyway, here I am rocking my 1991 Squier II strat "Vera" with my trusty Fender Stage 112SE in the background, look closely and you will see my DIY Master volume box sitting on top of it. Used the Vera for the first half of the show and my "Boardcaster" for the second half. Because as cool as the Vera might look, she DOES have the problem of actually staying in tune, so I might change those stock tuners later.
 
I used to read all those Harvey comic books then - Richie Rich ("poor little" privileged 1% brat), Little Lotta (overweight young girl~), Casper (friendly ghost?), Little Dot (young girl obsessed with polka-dots) ... bizarre what kids (like me!) were sucking in then.

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I had a decent comic book collection when I was a kid with all those titles. Back when Marvel and DC were separate companies, my friends and I would argue which produced better comics. I claimed that DC had better stories, but, as a fan of Jack Kirby and John Buscema, that Marvel had better art.
 
Out for Delivery

Out for Delivery, Expected Delivery Between 1:45pm and 3:45pm

ohh great just what I needed….


More projects….




I
do believe I’m shooting the base coat on the DC telecaster tonight…

I am going with the blue/yellow flowers on the DC, the headstock turned out absolutely perfect with the surf/pink, but it was a test run to see if I needed a base coat, and the grain shows through just enough to be annoying..

 
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I know this has been asked a million times, going to have some work done on my burst bird.
One thing of a few is new tuners.
What is a direct drop in for the Epi CP?
But with non-tapered string posts.
And chrome or nickel of course.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Have Hipshot HB6 3/8" ultralites in my classic pro. I got the licensed (import) version and they're very nice.

Mine are mini clover. The clovers edges will slightly interfere with each other as they turn, but only if they are both flat at the same time. It's never been a problem for me.

Also available in Y Key or lollipop.

Gotoh gb350 resolite should also fit and has a straight string post. I have never tried these.

Gotoh gb707 should fit the same but aren't lightweight.

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He is by the Van Nuys Airport. I do not believe he can shoot Nitro due to the CA Air Resources Board regs.

Yeah, I know that he “can’t”, but hoping he “would”. Also was hoping he was within 3’ish hours of the SF Bay Area, I really don’t want to ship. Considering having an ‘01 bird redone in black, from the typical burst, but don’t really want poly like my VP. I think someone praised a “thin poly”? Maybe that could be my answer. The other alternative, to stay authentic with nitro, is sending it to Missouri (MJT), but again, very reluctant to ship…
 
I had a decent comic book collection when I was a kid with all those titles. Back when Marvel and DC were separate companies, my friends and I would argue which produced better comics. I claimed that DC had better stories, but, as a fan of Jack Kirby and John Buscema, that Marvel had better art.

Hah! I had Spider Man #1 in my pre-teen hands. The kid who owned it wanted $20 ($200 in todays money), and I passed because I had no way in hell of affording that then. I imagine it's with a lot of $ today. :woot:
 
He is by the Van Nuys Airport. I do not believe he can shoot Nitro due to the CA Air Resources Board regs. But you can ask. He does first class work.

Pat? Acrylic only, as any finisher doing legal spraying in CA.
 
Yeah, I know that he “can’t”, but hoping he “would”. Also was hoping he was within 3’ish hours of the SF Bay Area, I really don’t want to ship. Considering having an ‘01 bird redone in black, from the typical burst, but don’t really want poly like my VP. I think someone praised a “thin poly”? Maybe that could be my answer. The other alternative, to stay authentic with nitro, is sending it to Missouri (MJT), but again, very reluctant to ship…

He wants to stay in business... I ship to Pat all the time.