No embarrassment, in high school I was in the crowd that wore interesting t-shirts including one that read "F##k Metric"!, "Kill a Gram".
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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- club thunderbird
@theFixer
To answer your half formed question, the front strap button is traditionally located on the heel and is why Bird players have the front lock on the strap reversed so the strap doesn't twist.
To answer your half formed question, the front strap button is traditionally located on the heel and is why Bird players have the front lock on the strap reversed so the strap doesn't twist.
That's not where I was goin'... but I find it hard to argue with!
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Sorry, but Canadians do not apologize all the time, eh.
That's funny! I started typing that question, then apparently saw something sparkly & forgot all about it!
What I was gonna ask was this...That's funny! I started typing that question, then apparently saw something sparkly & forgot all about it!
I use Schaller style strap locks. They only accommodate a smaller size screw head. The neck bolt won't fit. Know any ways around this issue that don't involve drilling?
Obviously the Thunderbuckers are more snarly/growly than the Chinabuckers...
But the interesting question is: How are the Chinabuckers compared to the original "active" Weetabix pickups of your Pro-IV?
@Gaolee's description of them being scooped is on the money. That and -- despite the active circuitry -- having low output. The Chinabuckers are working with RS66s and the Thunderbuckers with the KS Bass Burners.
You'd need the same strings etc for a proper comparison, but the pickup heights are the same and the CBuckers are definitely not driving the amp as hard as the TBucker. You can also see this by engaging the compressor - it's easy enough to play the CBuckers without triggering the comp, but the compression LED is flicking slightly even when the TBucker is played very lightly. That suggests the TBucker has a (metric) fvck tonne more output than the CBuckers, eh*.
The Epi definitely needs some work and I may have to break the habit of a lifetime and get some more Bass Burners - dang and blast you @Dadagoboi, teaching old cats new tricks!
Maybe a slightly less snarly Bird is a good thing and the Chinabuckers will stay, or pickups of an entirely different character, such as the Lace Alumitones could work.
* Cheeky Canadadians nicked this all purpose sentence ending from Aotearoa.
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Usually because they drank too much to realize their actions deserve an apology to offer or because someone else apologized for them already eh!.
I watched that yesterday while the Service Desk guy took over my pc.
Not my thing but I thought the 'bird sounded good slapped, and noticeably different to the others (that I remember).
"Cheeky Canadadians nicked this all purpose sentence ending from Aotearoa."..........Whaaaaaaat is that eh?.
Except the truss rod is imperialGot it!
I'm learning so much from yooz gize!
(Mine is anyway)
The exception to prove the rule ?
That right hand technique is painful to watch. Awful.
That's not what either of my Rickenbackers sound like. That one must have some electronics issues going on.
Actually right now slap and pop has kinda fallen out of style among younger players except those who only want to show off. It's now a very "dated" sound.
Why?
Anecdotely the Epiphones lack a recess for the bridge / studs so will always have the effect of being a 'tad'
higher.I don't own a Gibson ($
) so I can't compare directly.I'm sure someone can chime in on this
Oh maaaannn! I'd kill for action like that! That ain't happnin' on this Goth without goin' down to see Pete at Rainbow (local neck wizard). The nut is just too janky. I haven't tried it... but I'm not even sure I could pin a quarter at the first fret! The nut slots for the E & D, leave the strings way too high, I could drive a bus under the A string, and the G string, though still too high, is cut lower than the rest. I've got the feeling that this thing skated under the radar at final inspection. None of these issues are "life threatening". This is my 'bird, and I ain't turning' loose of it! This is just how we're gettin' to know each other. I've only had one guitar that I couldn't get workable. I forget exactly what year it was... but it was a 7ender Strat from the '70s (3 bolt w/"micro-tilt adjustment"). The previous owner had kept it in his non-climate controlled barn for years. I'm sure a luthier was able to get it workable again, but it was beyond my limited capabilities. I had traded a $350.00 Epi Les Paul jr. for it, and sold it to Elderly instruments for $750, so that was still a win for me!
Yep, my Goth action started HIGH. After some fiddle-farting around I bought a cheap set of imperial Allen keys, et voila! the truss rod is now operational. I was able to improve matters and it is pretty much rock solid.
Not sure it will ever be LOW though.
Edit: also check the saddles are in the correct spots. They should have a number (1 2 3 4) on the underside as a location guide.
Nooooooooooooo! Not the Dunlops. The Schallers are inherently more secure. Either get the button drilled out, or drill a new hole in the middle of the neck plate.
Yeah... he doesn't really need any help with that!
