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Thunderbird Club

My '55 Precision was 1.75" as are my two Fender USA Custom Shop Precision necks and my buddy's 65 P and early Tele basses.. That was THE Fender P width from '51 until at least '68 USA didn't do mm. The nominal size was 1.75 although profiles vary. "A,B, C, and D" originally referred to neck width. D being 1.75 and A being 1.5. '51 thru 55 were baseball bat chunky.

Hell, my 1960 EBO is 1.75"...when Bass Players were men not converted gui****s.
Maybe Gitmorons will get past the censors
Baseball bat chunky is good. The upright is a whole war club. One of these days, somebody will get a picture of my cringe-worthy technique and you will all see how it's possible for a thoroughly average sized human to wrap a thumb around one side of an upright neck and continue to play the rest of the strings with the other fingers. Don't even have to be a real man, just prehistoric.
 
I spent some time this past weekend bonding with the rescued Goth I wrote about a month or so ago. The straightened neck is still straight, intonation is still perfect and it was pretty much in tune even though I hadn't played it in a while.

So now I want to replace the three black bridge mounting screws/bolts; as some of you pointed out they are pretty banged up (that's how they were when I got it). I've searched the net, but I can't find anyplace that sells them a la cart. Can anyone point me to a source?

I guess I can clean up the ones I have with a file or with careful work on a Grinder, and then paint them with enamel. But I'd rather replace them with new ones.


Note that these do not have a "lip" around the top of the ferrule, they'll sit flush with the surface of the bass allowing the bridge to sit lower as well.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/TonePro...600983482-sku^1274423038182@ADL4GC-adType^PLA
 
Note that these do not have a "lip" around the top of the ferrule, they'll sit flush with the surface of the bass allowing the bridge to sit lower as well.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/TonePro...600983482-sku^1274423038182@ADL4GC-adType^PLA
Im sure glad you chimed in, I just realized MCF was only looking for the screws and not the bridge as well. I did not even realize the lip around the top of the ferrule thing going on. Note to Thunderbird Club - dont let me convince you where to shop or what to buy. Thanks Tbird:thumbsup:
 
Im sure glad you chimed in, I just realized MCF was only looking for the screws and not the bridge as well. I did not even realize the lip around the top of the ferrule thing going on. Note to Thunderbird Club - dont let me convince you where to shop or what to buy. Thanks Tbird:thumbsup:

The one you suggested are fine too, removing original Epi parts may well damage the surface of the paint and the parts you're suggesting would likely cover that, and if the bass has good action with the stock parts - no problem. The ones I linked are like what Gibson uses and at least on the older 'Birds without the pitched neck allow the bridge to lay flat on the bass if needed.
 
After being in the country for over a week, the KS Bass Burners I ordered from Bass Strings Online are finally here. Planning to take a set and the Epi to the highly recommended luthier this weekend for the new nut and trussrod spacer. There will be a wait of a week or two but there's no hurry. When it's back, should be able to get it set up near as damn it like the NRBird and test whether the Chinabucker gets anywhere near the Thunderbucker.
 
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I have been busy, gigs, new girlfriend, mainly the new girlfriend. Been trying to catch up before posting but being 1400 messages behind , page 1786, I give up, maybe later, but I am overwhelmed with posts.

So I got some good pics at the last gig, maybe a little video.

Oh. And I just bought another Thunderbird, 2 white ones were local, a custom shop bolt on from korea 2006, listed as a classic pro for $380, I set him straight and his last counter offer was $220, but a real classic pro with a case that was listed for $299 caught my eye, and I only had $250 cash. That guy actually was interested in my slash wah so I got it for $200 + the pedal. It is a beater, has some big chips on headstock, I was concerned about some stress cracks around 1/4" long coming from where the nut hits the fretboard, but I ended up taking it anyway. Will post pics later of that, but here are some pics from the ad. As well as some of me with the goth.

I'm in the neck through club now. For that price even a bit beat up in sure most here would have considered it a good price. Feel and sound was awesome! The nut actually needs to be glued down, and perhaps that is why there are stress cracks. If the head pops off I have a tech friend who could repair it. It is 2013 Indonesia on the dater.

I literally am on an excersize bike at a gym 1.5 miles from this bass purchase, girlfriends dog is guarding it in the car (case covered by a blanket, the dog kept pulling the blanket off so the blanket is tucked in, so it is obvious it is covering a case lol)

Oh. And I checked the truss rod, virgin nut! Tad tight but seemed alright.

Yes I am still wondering about that 2006 bolt on to match my 2006 goth also Korea, in better shape, but I think I made the better choice in the long run (unless the head snaps off lol)
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