in a metric vs. SAE bridge... are the stud threads the only difference (with regards to dimentions)?The 3 point on my bolt on Korean Epi Tbird is a cheap POS and metric.
The three points on my Bicentennials are USA made, heavier, and SAE thread. They are still, none the less, POS...IMO.
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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He pulls it out when people visit from the panhandle. It's like putting away the good liquor when certain guests come over.Maybe it shouldn't... but it surprises the crap outa me to learn that, with the incredible collection of basses you own... a Korean bolt-on Epi is among them
It occurs to me that you're in a really great situation right now! Yer cuzn surprised you with a new 'bird, then left you alone for a couple weeks to fiddle with it & make it yours! The only thing that woulda made it any better, is if you had your own amp with ya!
That really is the missing link Fix. But won't happen for over a week till I'm back home. I think as far as the action goes, It's all set. But can't wait to hear it through my own rig. That Marshall is nice and all, it's just not a bass amp.
- Jul 1, 2005
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Know your enemy.Maybe it shouldn't... but it surprises the crap outa me to learn that, with the incredible collection of basses you own... a Korean bolt-on Epi is among them
It was $125 with Epi case including shipping from Colorado to Florida.
I needed a case and figured the bass was probably worth $50. Construction and finish are good, hardware and electronics lacking. But hey, it was probably no more than $75 landed from the factory.
I used it for development of the 'ThunderTone' replacement bridge tailpiece for the three point. Decided not to pursue it after Scott's BadBird II went into production.
Here's the replacement for the 3 Pt. I did for my BiCen. 'Nevertilt', $15 bridge with a 20 minute mod...Works great. Perfect intonation, adjustable string spacing, and no silk on the saddle...strings now owned by Kat.
- Jul 1, 2005
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I don't know. I'm sure Gisbon/Epipen has used different suppliers for the bridge depending when and where the bass was made.
IME with manufacturing in Asia whenever it's possible to use metric they will. They'll also reduce the amount of material by making parts thinner. e.g. 1/4" becomes 6mm if not 5. Doesn't seem like much but it all adds up.
You give them a price and they give you a product. You generally get what you're willing to pay for.
I can't find the Epi bridge but I do remember the 3rd post 'tongue' was a lot thinner than the USA one.
@kat888
You were talking about sustain a number of pages back. I don't really feel like spending the next hour looking for it, so I'mma pick it up from here.
That Goth I had, had horrible sustain. When I first picked a note (even an open string)... the initial tone and attack were solid, but after maybe one second, the tone would rapidly thin out and the volume would rapidly drop. If you were thumpin' out quarter or eighth notes or whatever, you'd never notice... but try to hold out a whole note & you may coast to a stop before you get there. I'm sure Carlo and a few others would be able to tell you more about what variables would cause this, but the first places I would look, would be the nut and the saddles. It seems logical to me that a neck-thru bass with a high-mass, full contact, string-through-body bridge, would be a best case scenario for optimal sustain. "Endless" sustain is simply unnecessary for most practical applications, but it's not a bad thing to have. It's kinda like having a car that is capable of going 200 mph. You may never drive it over 70... but it's good to know you can!
You were talking about sustain a number of pages back. I don't really feel like spending the next hour looking for it, so I'mma pick it up from here.
That Goth I had, had horrible sustain. When I first picked a note (even an open string)... the initial tone and attack were solid, but after maybe one second, the tone would rapidly thin out and the volume would rapidly drop. If you were thumpin' out quarter or eighth notes or whatever, you'd never notice... but try to hold out a whole note & you may coast to a stop before you get there. I'm sure Carlo and a few others would be able to tell you more about what variables would cause this, but the first places I would look, would be the nut and the saddles. It seems logical to me that a neck-thru bass with a high-mass, full contact, string-through-body bridge, would be a best case scenario for optimal sustain. "Endless" sustain is simply unnecessary for most practical applications, but it's not a bad thing to have. It's kinda like having a car that is capable of going 200 mph. You may never drive it over 70... but it's good to know you can!
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WOW!!! You bought a case & got a free bass! Can't beat that!Know your enemy.
It was $125 with Epi case including shipping from Colorado to Florida.
I needed a case and figured the bass was probably worth $50. Construction and finish are good, hardware and electronics lacking. But hey, it was probably no more than $75 landed from the factory.
I used it for development of the 'ThunderTone' replacement bridge tailpiece for the three point. Decided not to pursue it after Scott's BadBird II went into production.
View attachment 1426737
View attachment 1426738
Here's the replacement for the 3 Pt. I did for my BiCen. 'Nevertilt', $15 bridge with a 20 minute mod...Works great. Perfect intonation, adjustable string spacing, and no silk on the saddle...strings now owned by Kat.
View attachment 1426739
View attachment 1426740
What modification did you perform on the "Nevertilt"?
I guess the question I'm really asking, is this:
Will any 3 point 4 string bass bridge fit on any 4 string bass that was originally manufactured with a 3 point bridge, or are there differences in stud sizes, spacing, etc.?
(Epipen... you crack me up
. I never have to ask how you feel about stuff!)
- Jul 1, 2005
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WOW!!! You bought a case & got a free bass! Can't beat that!
What modification did you perform on the "Nevertilt"?
HERE: NEVERTILT 3 point upgrade
I guess the question I'm really asking, is this:
Will any 3 point 4 string bass bridge fit on any 4 string bass that was originally manufactured with a 3 point bridge, or are there differences in stud sizes, spacing, etc.?
(Epipen... you crack me up
You'll have to ask Henry.
I have no problem with Epi, can't be beat as far as bang for the buck!
Thanks!
... and Henry & I aren't on speaking terms. I got fed up with him ignoring me
I'm fairly certain he doesn't know anything about his product anyway.
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Drop C tuning eh?, sounds about right!. What kinda noise are you making?.Hey guys, just thought I'd let the club know that I ordered a new Bird for the collection. Wanted another bass for Eb Standard/Drop C# Tunings on stage, and I couldn't think of a better choice, than another T-bird.
It's coming in Sunburst, but I'm changing the colour some time in the future, but not right away. Will post pictures when I change the colour, but until then, I'm keeping it a surprise.
Oh man that top pictured bird is beautiful, absolutely love that color and minus the pickguard.droolKnow your enemy.
It was $125 with Epi case including shipping from Colorado to Florida.
I needed a case and figured the bass was probably worth $50. Construction and finish are good, hardware and electronics lacking. But hey, it was probably no more than $75 landed from the factory.
I used it for development of the 'ThunderTone' replacement bridge tailpiece for the three point. Decided not to pursue it after Scott's BadBird II went into production.
View attachment 1426737
View attachment 1426738
Here's the replacement for the 3 Pt. I did for my BiCen. 'Nevertilt', $15 bridge with a 20 minute mod...Works great. Perfect intonation, adjustable string spacing, and no silk on the saddle...strings now owned by Kat.
View attachment 1426739
View attachment 1426740
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Not speaking from first hand experience but from everything I've read here and other places...I guess the question I'm really asking, is this:
Will any 3 point 4 string bass bridge fit on any 4 string bass that was originally manufactured with a 3 point bridge, or are there differences in stud sizes, spacing, etc.?
(Epipen... you crack me up
The Gibby and eppi three point bridges are interchangeable with the exception that the Asian made basses use metric stud anchors in the body along with corresponding metric bolts and the USA ones don't. But supposedly the two actual bridges are interchangeable.
So if I understand it correctly, if you have an Asian made Eppi and for some reason wanted to use a USA bridge on it you could as long as you still used your Eppi studs. If you wanted to use the USA studs you'd also need to replace the metric stud anchors in the body.
Besides the metric thing, I think the only other differences in the two bridges is that some of the Eppi ones have a shoulder on the anchor that rises slightly above the body, whereas the USA anchors are flush with the body. Depending upon how low you like your action that might or might not be a problem.
Again, no experience on this issue, just parroting what I've heard. I'm sure others will chime in with confirmations or corrections.
- Jun 30, 2010
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WOW!!! Nice job! I like that flash of natural wood around the perimeter!
I think it's RedVee that has a wide necked Goth as well. I'm constantly watching for them online. Every example I see for sale either has the 1.5" nut, or doesn't specify and is hard to tell by the photo. Based on the (possibly inaccurate) info on the Epi website... I'm guessing that, if I bought a brand new Goth, it would have the wider neck. I just have no way of knowing that for sure. I'm not in a position to do anything about it right now anyway... so I'll just keep my eyes peeled & wait for the right opportunity I guess
Both of my Goth necks are 1-5/8" at the nut.
@kat888
You were talking about sustain a number of pages back. I don't really feel like spending the next hour looking for it, so I'mma pick it up from here.
That Goth I had, had horrible sustain. When I first picked a note (even an open string)... the initial tone and attack were solid, but after maybe one second, the tone would rapidly thin out and the volume would rapidly drop. If you were thumpin' out quarter or eighth notes or whatever, you'd never notice... but try to hold out a whole note & you may coast to a stop before you get there. I'm sure Carlo and a few others would be able to tell you more about what variables would cause this, but the first places I would look, would be the nut and the saddles. It seems logical to me that a neck-thru bass with a high-mass, full contact, string-through-body bridge, would be a best case scenario for optimal sustain. "Endless" sustain is simply unnecessary for most practical applications, but it's not a bad thing to have. It's kinda like having a car that is capable of going 200 mph. You may never drive it over 70... but it's good to know you can!
There's always that once in a blue moon chance you get a chance to giver hell though
For what it’s worth, here’s a pic of bridge to neck with the Hipshot bridge. I was surprised when I first installed it that I had to raise the saddles pretty much as high as they would go.
