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Thunderbird Club

Double facetiousness! (in that case it cancels both out!) ;)

The Supertone is what I used on my Epi body - anything else unfortunately wouldn't cover the wide 3-point post holes. Can also be used as a string-thru as I did.

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A Babicz will cover the three point posts - uses 'em all, too. They are expensive, but they are the ones I like best.
 
About a grand per knob? Seems about right;)
LOL - seriously, the Series I and II Alembic control setups make them phenomenal basses for recording and studio work. Not so gig friendly, but then again I wouldn't consider taking a coffee table with a used BMW price tag on it to a bar bash anyway. ;)
 
I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but generally speaking, the pot value selection will have some impact on tone but not huge. If you like the current tone then stick with the same value pots as the originals. IIRC the Eppi uses 500K ohm volume pots and a 500K ohm tone pot. If you use a 250K tone pot it might warm the sound up a tad.

As for capacitors in a passive bass, just remember all the cap is doing is filtering out high frequencies. The larger the value of the cap the more highs will be filtered out. So if you don't want to add any more highs than you already have you should use a cap that is equal to or larger than your stock cap. IIRC that would be a .047uf cap or the next size larger. BTW I tested every type of cap typically used in guitars and basses and found virtually zero difference between the different types in spite of the fact that some cost 10 times more than others. The Orange drop caps seemed to be reasonably priced and worked well.
Were these listening tests?
 
Went over to look at that Lull & found this fella:

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... and @Gaolee ... they're wondering when yer gonna come & pick this up:

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Already got two - I will allow somebody else to share the joy.
 
Were these listening tests?
Yes. About a year ago I spent a bunch of time and money goofing around with various pot and cap options as well as passive and active options for my FrankenGoth build in the quest for my favorite tone. If you dig back to around last November in this club you can find the lengthy posts detailing the test rigs and the caps and pots tested along with the results and some surprises.

It was an interesting journey and resulted in a great and unique sounding TBird with tremendous flexibility and range. The final control scheme ended up being Classic Bartolini pickups run through an active Aguilar OBP-2 two band preamp with a Vol, vol, bass, treb layout and a toggle to split the coils from Humbucker to single outside coils. It was a total waste of time and money but fun and enlightening, plus I now have a killer sounding Goth. I just need to get around to finishing the asthetics (fretboard dye, custom leather pickguard and truss rod cover, upgraded tuners).
 
Yes. About a year ago I spent a bunch of time and money goofing around with various pot and cap options as well as passive and active options for my FrankenGoth build in the quest for my favorite tone. If you dig back to around last November in this club you can find the lengthy posts detailing the test rigs and the caps and pots tested along with the results and some surprises.

It was an interesting journey and resulted in a great and unique sounding TBird with tremendous flexibility and range. The final control scheme ended up being Classic Bartolini pickups run through an active Aguilar OBP-2 two band preamp with a Vol, vol, bass, treb layout and a toggle to split the coils from Humbucker to single outside coils. It was a total waste of time and money but fun and enlightening, plus I now have a killer sounding Goth. I just need to get around to finishing the asthetics (fretboard dye, custom leather pickguard and truss rod cover, upgraded tuners).
Cool. Thanks. Was it just you doing the listening?
 
I don't have my notes in front of me right now, but generally speaking, the pot value selection will have some impact on tone but not huge. If you like the current tone then stick with the same value pots as the originals. IIRC the Eppi uses 500K ohm volume pots and a 500K ohm tone pot. If you use a 250K tone pot it might warm the sound up a tad.

As for capacitors in a passive bass, just remember all the cap is doing is filtering out high frequencies. The larger the value of the cap the more highs will be filtered out. So if you don't want to add any more highs than you already have you should use a cap that is equal to or larger than your stock cap. IIRC that would be a .047uf cap or the next size larger. BTW I tested every type of cap typically used in guitars and basses and found virtually zero difference between the different types in spite of the fact that some cost 10 times more than others. The Orange drop caps seemed to be reasonably priced and worked well.

Exactly what I was looking for.

I want to do a master vol, master tone and have a three way p’up toggle.

Would a 250 time pot and .047 cap work well?
All things relative of course.

Thank you for your input!!
 
A Babicz will cover the three point posts - uses 'em all, too. They are expensive, but they are the ones I like best.
My only problem with those after market bridges is that they yank on the inserts which are not threaded. If you torque them down generously they will pull the inserts out. You then have a bridge that's somewhat floating. The downward tension from the strings alleviates this but it's still there nonetheless. If on the other hand you don't torque the screws down enough, you run the risk of them coming loose from vibration..
 
My only problem with those after market bridges is that they yank on the inserts which are not threaded. If you torque them down generously they will pull the inserts out. You then have a bridge that's somewhat floating. The downward tension from the strings alleviates this but it's still there nonetheless. If on the other hand you don't torque the screws down enough, you run the risk of them coming loose from vibration..
Sort of on topic-my 5 string Epi Bird will no longer need a bridge cover, once the one I ordered gets here.:hyper:
 
My only problem with those after market bridges is that they yank on the inserts which are not threaded. If you torque them down generously they will pull the inserts out. You then have a bridge that's somewhat floating. The downward tension from the strings alleviates this but it's still there nonetheless. If on the other hand you don't torque the screws down enough, you run the risk of them coming loose from vibration..
I'm in agreement with this, in principle they are good but better for the 5 screw bumper type fixing where the "Full contact" is assured
 
Has anyone played one of these? It's a Gretsch Billy-Bo Jupiter Thunderbird Bass. I'm intrigued but would like to hear from someone with some first hand experience before I go any further down the road with this one :thumbsup:
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