• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Thunderbird Club

Got a question, @Chucky Stiletti... or anyone for that matter.

I’m looking to make my Acoustic Bass Amp look right since it’s missing the input jack “ring” on its passive input.

9A657AE3-E1F9-4A8B-8768-55A907DBA841.jpeg


I’ve found these amp input jacks at Allparts and was wondering if the “ring” is interchangeable and if it’s PRESSED ON OR THREADED? Were these pretty common from amp maker to amp maker as these seem to be generally listed as Marshall replacements?

Bottom line question:

Will I be able to use this “ring” on my Acoustic amp or will I need to install the entire jack assembly?

A73FAAD8-A747-4B7B-970F-E86B06727278.jpeg


I’m not opposed to ordering two to make them exactly the same since they are so inexpensive.

Don't pay any attention to the amp settings since I just put new knobs on it because one knob was missing the chrome face plate.
 
Last edited:
Got a question, @Chucky Stiletti... or anyone for that matter.

I’m looking to make my Acoustic Bass Amp look right since it’s missing the input jack “ring” on its passive input.

View attachment 3157019

I’ve found these amp input jacks at Allparts and was wondering if the “ring” is interchangeable and if it’s PRESSED ON OR THREADED? Were these pretty common from amp maker to amp maker as these seem to be generally listed as Marshall replacements?

Bottom line question:

Will I be able to use this “ring” on my Acousric amp or will I need to install the entire jack assembly?

View attachment 3157029

I’m not opposed to ordering two to make them exactly the same since they are so inexpensive.

Don't pay any attention to the amp settings since I just put new knobs on it because one knob was missing the chrome face plate.
Ciao Larry,
those are threaded and should work fine. Many manufacturers use those as they became popular when tube amps went from point to point (handbuilt) construction to PCBs. You should not have to do anything else other than gently (have to watch phrasing in this club to avoid "ehems" but am kinda hosed on this one) slide the barrel of the nut into the hole and start turning until you feel grip. Then tighten but don't over do it since the receptacle is PCB mounted and you could potentially crack the PCB (porca miseria!) which is prolly what made it fall out in the first place. Because you can't really torque them the way you would an old school panel mounted female 1/4" jack, vibration from the amp will cause these new style nuts to loosen and fall off..
 
Ciao Larry,
those are threaded and should work fine. Many manufacturers use those as they became popular when tube amps went from point to point (handbuilt) construction to PCBs. You should not have to do anything else other than gently (have to watch phrasing in this club to avoid "ehems" but am kinda hosed on this one) slide the barrel of the nut into the hole and start turning until you feel grip. Then tighten but don't over do it since the receptacle is PCB mounted and you could potentially crack the PCB (porca miseria!) which is prolly what made it fall out in the first place. Because you can't really torque them the way you would an old school panel mounted female 1/4" jack, vibration from the amp will cause these new style nuts to loosen and fall off..

Very informative, but also Ehem-itive, and lots of it.
 
Ciao Larry,
those are threaded and should work fine. Many manufacturers use those as they became popular when tube amps went from point to point (handbuilt) construction to PCBs. You should not have to do anything else other than gently (have to watch phrasing in this club to avoid "ehems" but am kinda hosed on this one) slide the barrel of the nut into the hole and start turning until you feel grip. Then tighten but don't over do it since the receptacle is PCB mounted and you could potentially crack the PCB (porca miseria!) which is prolly what made it fall out in the first place. Because you can't really torque them the way you would an old school panel mounted female 1/4" jack, vibration from the amp will cause these new style nuts to loosen and fall off..

Grazie molto, Chuck!

I think I'll order two since there's no way to be sure that the new one will be identical. Fingers crossed that the threads match.
 
My form of insanity is doing it different every time and expecting the same results. Sitting still too long is still a chore, too. Coincidence?

The funny thing is the same settings can sound different to me at different times. One day, it will be perfect. The next day, the exact same thing will sound awful in a different room. So, I fiddle with things all the time to see what sounds good and don't worry very much about changing things. Being a day job type helps. If it doesn't work, I still get a paycheck from somewhere else. The only one I really fight with to make it sound the same every time is the upright. That has a specific sound that I want to have every time. There's a narrow range of adjustments I do with it, when it's amplified. It's nearly always amplified, too.
I hate that level of variability where as you say, stuff can sound so different from day to day and try to alleviate this by keeping the controlled variables as unchanged as possible. I'm with you on the day job camp (have not been a full time music pro in over 20 years) but in my bands (2 now) we have no time between songs. Upon ending a song the drummer is already counting the next one so that leaves me no time to futz around with the settings on the amp. I have to "condense" my setup so that all it takes is a couple of small adjustments on the bass to go from "Folsom Prison Blues" to "Get into the Groove" convincingly. From your post it seems I treat my electrics more like the way you treat your upright which makes me wonder if an upright is (for me) such a good idea..