TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
At this point, I just commute on the bike. It's overkill to ride a Daytona as a commuter but it is better than not riding.
Seattle isn't bad, as long as one is prepared for the weather. Chicago drivers suck! Gotta keep head on a swivel!
Or foolishness. I consider it combat riding.
i'll post the links to some of the suppliers i've used in a later postI think that would be beyond most of us, that is skilful work, I think if I tried it they would end up the size of a triangular tobacco tin and holes all over them where the silver had melted when trying to solder them together.
i tried with the cover on and off,and no difference , the only noticeable thing was when playing if your plec or nail hits the plastic you dont hear anything ,but off the silver cover you get a slight percussive click , so if you are a heavy fingered so and so like me its best not to follow through ....that sounded a tad pornographic but i think you get my drift , i suppose if i had epoxied or wax loaded them it might have acted as a deadener , its not obvious and when i rehearsed on wednesday night at full tilt volume wise i didnt really hear anything irritating other than the odd Zb
Cool, It's a shame the ones on ebay don't fit the plastic covered pups, I guess there could be a small market for your silver ones, a bit pricey when you factor in your overheads etc but there isn't much coice and they do look superb
i think they could be made from nickel silver quite cheaply materials wise ,but you're right its the time to hand make that's the problem its tricky, if the were just flat topped and sharp edged then it would be quicker ,and i think if the were nickel they would be more robust and there must be a way of winding down the pick up whilst the cover stays in situ , its a bit of a brain teaser
so it isn't 4.0mm or 5.0m; I'm guessing it is either 4.5mm or could it be an Imperial size? I assumed metric as I think the Goths were a China build. 
Nice to meet @veebass yesterday. It was good to hear the Goth in other hands.
The action feels a bit better now after a bit of manipulation but with no truss rod adjustment as yet.
Though that was not the plan.
I bought a pack of Allen keys and a rachet screwdriver with multiple heads including Allen keys thinking I'd be covered... And of course none of them fitted the Goths trussrod
Anyone know for sure?
It larger than 4.0 and smaller than 5.0 ; both sets I bought excluded 4.5 though most other n.5's were covered (of course!).
Get a set of imperial ones, too? The tool kit I got as a present upon going off to college included both. Usually there will be an imperial size somewhere between two metrics and vice versa that will be a close enough fit.
