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Thunderbird Club

4.5mm allen keys are available but it's worth getting the exact size before trying otherwise it will only damage the nut and eventually the only thing that will budge them would be a snap on stud extractor!
Yeah, that's the problem though. How do I get the exact size?

I found something via Google of someone saying 'either 4.0, 4.5, or 5.0mm' depending on which country. It then looked like China was 5.0 and my bass supposedly is China build. 5.0mm is definitely too large though, and so I didn't force it.
 
One of the truss-rod covers on my epiphone classic pro recently broke apart and I was thinking why not just replace it with a gibson truss rod cover i heard about people replacing the epiphone ones with fake gibson ones but theres different measurements due to different epiphones. I cant measure it right now (friend is borrowing it) but id like to know what would a good fake gibson replacement (gold) be for the correct fitting?
 
One of the truss-rod covers on my epiphone classic pro recently broke apart and I was thinking why not just replace it with a gibson truss rod cover i heard about people replacing the epiphone ones with fake gibson ones but theres different measurements due to different epiphones. I cant measure it right now (friend is borrowing it) but id like to know what would a good fake gibson replacement (gold) be for the correct fitting?
Replace it with a custom one from Link Removed

It'll look cool.
 
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Yeah, that's the problem though. How do I get the exact size?

I found something via Google of someone saying 'either 4.0, 4.5, or 5.0mm' depending on which country. It then looked like China was 5.0 and my bass supposedly is China build. 5.0mm is definitely too large though, and so I didn't force it.
The only way would be to buy or load a 4.5 and a set of imperial Allen keys and see which one does fit. Maybe a visit to a local car mechanic first may help? The trouble is that being built in Indonesia that the metal the nut is made from may be quite soft in comparison to what Gibson USA might use and more easily damaged so it is worth waiting a few extra days to get the exact size
 
Nice to meet @veebass yesterday. It was good to hear the Goth in other hands.

The action feels a bit better now after a bit of manipulation but with no truss rod adjustment as yet.

Though that was not the plan.

I bought a pack of Allen keys and a rachet screwdriver with multiple heads including Allen keys thinking I'd be covered... And of course none of them fitted the Goths trussrod :) so it isn't 4.0mm or 5.0m; I'm guessing it is either 4.5mm or could it be an Imperial size? I assumed metric as I think the Goths were a China build.

Anyone know for sure?

Great to meet you too, mate.

How did you go with the truss adjustment- I would echo what others have said below about making sure you have got the exact right size hex key.
 
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Evening all... a few months ago I was complaining about the stock pups on my Epi Tbird ProIV having a certain 'wet cardboard' quality. I have identified (at least part of) the problem, that being the blend pot, which when run in the centre position effectively shorts half the signal from each pup to ground. I've added an MXR micro amp to the signal chain which helps until I decide what to do with the pups/electronics.

Ideally, I prefer running two volume pots and no tone - either active or passive.

The question us, can anyone tell me what the stock pups in the Tbird ProIV actually are? Are they any good run without the preamp?*

Or am I better off throwing in a pair of EMG soapbars (easy to find in Australia and won't have potential warranty issues)?

* Running 6m cable to the pedalboard and then 3m cable to the head.
 
Great to meet you too, mate.

How did you go with the truss adjustment- I would echo what others have said below about making sure you have got the exact right size hex key.

Owen had a look for me and we decided to withdraw gracefully and not use an incorrect size tool.

I don't know whether it is my mind playing tricks or not but I think it is marginally better now.

Btw I still like the way it sounds.
 
5596ebfbbfb4.jpg


Last Saturday Fest) with my t-bird 2006

9156752da54d.jpg
 
Bought a Tbird at auction and was trying to sell it and make a couple of bucks. My Jackson needs to get a setup, so I took out the Tbird. Thinking of keeping it now, only thing is the Epiphone pickups sound a little muddy compared to the Jackson. Anyone drop active EMGs in thiers?
 
This pic is fantastic for lots of reasons but to me it's epic for the picture perfect TBird logo displayed completely upright. THAT must be the correct playing position of the Gibson Thunderbird! Great job!

Tanx, i try)))

Kirill - don't look now, but your drummer is missing!;)
Heck, when you have a Bird and an 8x10 on stage you've got just about everything you need to put a smile on your face. :thumbsup:Looks like a great show and a fun time, wish I were there!:)

This place have 2 drum set) drummer playing for singer back) I don't wan play without drummer))))

aa4c70e90da5.jpg
 
Evening all... a few months ago I was complaining about the stock pups on my Epi Tbird ProIV having a certain 'wet cardboard' quality. I have identified (at least part of) the problem, that being the blend pot, which when run in the centre position effectively shorts half the signal from each pup to ground. I've added an MXR micro amp to the signal chain which helps until I decide what to do with the pups/electronics.

Ideally, I prefer running two volume pots and no tone - either active or passive.

The question us, can anyone tell me what the stock pups in the Tbird ProIV actually are? Are they any good run without the preamp?*

Or am I better off throwing in a pair of EMG soapbars (easy to find in Australia and won't have potential warranty issues)?

* Running 6m cable to the pedalboard and then 3m cable to the head.
I didn't much like the stock setup on a Pro IV, either. Mine is now fretless, passive, and has Lace Alumatone pickups. That doesn't answer your question, unfortunately, but you aren't the only one who didn't like the stock active electronics.
 
Evening all... a few months ago I was complaining about the stock pups on my Epi Tbird ProIV having a certain 'wet cardboard' quality. I have identified (at least part of) the problem, that being the blend pot, which when run in the centre position effectively shorts half the signal from each pup to ground. I've added an MXR micro amp to the signal chain which helps until I decide what to do with the pups/electronics.

Ideally, I prefer running two volume pots and no tone - either active or passive.

The question us, can anyone tell me what the stock pups in the Tbird ProIV actually are? Are they any good run without the preamp?*

Or am I better off throwing in a pair of EMG soapbars (easy to find in Australia and won't have potential warranty issues)?

* Running 6m cable to the pedalboard and then 3m cable to the head.

I do remember somebody removing the preamp from a Pro, his thoughts were that it was rather bland. My Jackson 'Bird uses EMGs and a Preamp (I don't recall who) and a four knob layout, tonally it cuts, and for certain occasions it's the perfect bass to own.
 

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