Thanks, Chromium! I actually Googled my way to your site, and read about your mudbucker modifications. I'm really glad that your sound clips were still available, because they helped me decide to pursue the coil tap modification! Turns out there's not a lot of mudbucker info on the web, especially about modifying them...
So I got the RayBird body almost completely sanded now. I went ahead and fully assembled it, so that I could test drive it at rehearsal today - it saw action for more than half of practice! As mentioned, this one will get extremely simple electronics - just the coil-tapped mudbucker, an on-off-on switch, and a jack. This is my alter-ego bass; it represents nearly everything that the others are not - passive, single-pickup, no knobs, as well as being bolt-on, with a Leo-style headstock and clover-key tuners. These are all things that the snob in me frowns upon; in the spirit of expanding my horizons, it felt like I needed to dip my toes into that stuff!
Speaking of the headstock, I had wanted to use some Grover Titan tuners that I already had on hand. The Grovers are extremely nice tuners, with a silky feel and a hefty, reassuringly solid build. That solidity also causes them to weigh right at a pound for four of them!

Preliminary balance tests showed that they were not going to work. So I went shopping for full-sized lightweight tuners. My choices were the Hipshot UltraLite, the Gotoh Res-O-Lite GB528, the Schaller BMCHL, and the related Fender/Schaller Deluxe tuner. I wanted something reversible, as well as something for which a Hipshot D-Tuner was available. For some reason the Hipshots didn't appeal to me aesthetically. I nearly ordered the Gotohs, but they came in a little more expensive than the Fender/Schallers, so that's what I went with. They're actually not reversible, but they are readily available singly in right and left versions. They use a pair of locating pins instead of screws, so I had to drill a few holes, but that's no biggie. Turns out the D-Tuner
just fits!
They are beautiful machines, with lustrous chrome plating. And the post design is pretty smart too, with a recessed area for the string to ride in, and a shallow groove at the top of the post, all of which helps the string wind down towards the bottom of the post, as it needs to do on a Leo-style headstock.
Instrument balance is also about strap button placement. For bolt-on 'Birds, the consensus is that the best option is to use one of the neck bolts. Since I installed threaded inserts for use with machine screws, the wood screw that the Dunlop StrapLok comes with wouldn't work. So I put the machine screw into the chuck of my drill, and ran it across a mill file until the head would fit inside the StrapLok. Voila!
With the lightweight tuners and the strap buttons as above (and the weighty BadAss bridge), the instrument now balances pretty well! And it's nice and light too, much lighter than my regular gigging basses. I actually had a blast playing it at rehearsal, because of the reduced weight, as well as the contours that I did on the upper half of the body. This picture is a little difficult to see, but the usual "tummy cut" was eschewed in favor of a generous bevel on the back of the upper body closest to the neck, and a matching bevel on the front, where my picking arm rests.
The mudbucker, as expected, held down a big and meaty bottom end. It was fat and juicy in full series mode for Motown ballads, and was brighter and more present (but still fat and juicy) in single-coil mode for the more pop-rock stuff. And the single-coil hum was nearly imperceptible! I'm a happy camper.
I've been using five-strings for a while now, so it was fun to play a stripped-down four for a change. And a few of our songs are actually much easier to play with the drop-D tuning, so I think this one will be fast-tracked to completion. Next step is to dye it and clear-coat it. I'm thinking I'll try to do a wine red burst with TransTint, then shoot it with a few coats of Deft rattle-can lacquer (I don't have spray equipment).