Tight Space on Headstock

[claudel]

Well, I think you should concentrate on finding a builder who will build you a neck with good geometry. So it doesn't need string trees and can use your cool truss rod cover. It certainly can be done.

Use, or have the builder use, better wood, maple etc for the neck. A scarf join will help prevent having short grain running through the headstock, although the joinery needs to be done well to be better. Also, the 13 degree Gibson angle is excessive and probably as much to do with tradition as anything, a 5-7 degree headstock angle will give plenty of downforce for the strings and be much less prone to breakage.

It's not as if I haven't been looking...

Locals don't seem to be interested or capable.

People I've found so far pretty much have a set menu of options.

Most places I've checked will accommodate some of my requirements

Unfortunately I haven't found anyone whose options include of my wishes

I don't think what I want is that complicated.

Nice wood, mahogany/fretless ebony, short scale, 2x2 that is not fragile, "P" width nut, fat profile, standard Fender heel, some sort of inserts for mounting...

Gonna be going for the 1st gen EB-0 LP JR doublecut style...

Sort of a combination of these two.





I have the metal parts, electronics and a source for the body, trying to find a neck that checks all the boxes...

Something will turn up, I'm not in a big hurry.

 

[Smilodon]

Why do you need string trees on the two tuners closet to the nut? Almost all necks have either an offset or tilted headstock. If you wind enough of the string on the tuner post the string should be pushed close enough to the headstock. A tring tree/retainer for the A and D would usually be placed far enough from the nut where there would be no conflict with the truss rod cover.

 

[claudel]

Why do you need string trees on the two tuners closet to the nut? Almost all necks have either an offset or tilted headstock. If you wind enough of the string on the tuner post the string should be pushed close enough to the headstock. A tring tree/retainer for the A and D would usually be placed far enough from the nut where there would be no conflict with the truss rod cover.

That works pretty good on the higher strings.

I've found that using an actual retainer seems to firm up things a bit with short scales, especially on the low strings.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

That works pretty good on the higher strings.

I've found that using an actual retainer seems to firm up things a bit with short scales, especially on the low strings.

Here's an older thread where we discuss headstock design on custom necks, explaining offset and tiltback and combinations to get good string break angle:

Post in thread 'Need a Commercial Pro for a Custom Neck'

Jun 9, 2021

Hi Bruce, mentioned in another thread my first planned construction piece would be a T40 replacement with an angled neadstock. I've never heard the tern "headstock offset" before. Could you or someone explain to me what this means or point to an article or something that does. Sorry for the noob question but I want to get it right.

Headstock offset means that the headstock's top and back surfaces are moved straight down vertically, usually by 1/8" to 1/4". This creates a radiused curve or "scoop" of the top surface up to where the nut is.

Most Gibson headstocks have zero offset...

• Bruce Johnson

• 

 

[ThudThudThud]

Fender Stealth String Guides?

 

[claudel]

View attachment 7288404
Fender Stealth String Guides?

From earlier...

"Well, if Fender ( or some enterprising copyist ) would make the Stealth trees for both sides and both size posts and in colors other than chrome, they'd be perfect. :^)"



But like a wise person once said: "If frogs had wings..."